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 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 12/20/19 09:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bill.Satellite wrote:

You will need to consider how large that tank is and how the weight of the water will effect that tank. The reason most tanks have the longest sides sitting on the floor is to prevent those walls from bulging due to weight. Certainly something like a stainless steel tank would work great but something more flexible could have issues.



Adding a couple of cross braces through the middle would keep the sides from bulging. Stainless could be a good substitute for the plastic normally used in most rv's.


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

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A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

I would lay the tank over so that it covered the floor of the cabinet and extended over the wheel well. That would give you full depth drawers, spread out the weight of the water (600+ lbs with tank, etc.) over a greater area, lower the center of gravity, and still allow plenty of room for storage with the possibility of larger items that might not fit into 16" of depth. You could make the tank 14 X 72 with a notched out area 8 X whatever for the wheel well. That would still leave 20"+ for the drawers and storage. Mount the pump above the tank on the outside wall along with the fill and vent. Don't forget to provide a drain for the tank.




That would spread out the weight across a larger area, but, that would eliminate adding a gray tank on the inside. I was figuring on raising the shower floor a few inches, and running that tank inside, from the toilet area all the way to the back of the wheel well box.

Moving the fresh tank lower would require moving the gray tank completely under the floor. While that is not impossible, it's not what I was hoping to do.

Agreed, that the 16" depth of drawer space could be improved, although there will be drawers directly across the aisle, on the other side, so I don't see that as a major problem.

The plan for the plumbing is to be able to drain the entire system in about 30 seconds, plus whatever time it takes to empty the tank, depending on how much water is in there.

Just opening the spigots and the low water drain point should do it.

Completely covering the floor would require a 26 x 42 x 8 inch tank laying on the floor, with a 26 x 72 x nearly 5 inch high piece above it.

That would give about 75 gallons of water. I would lose the bottom 13 inches of floor space, which isn't catastrophic, and would allow 26" long drawers, (roughly), and about 2 - 10" height drawers. Roughly 20" between the fresh tank and up to 3" below the bottom of the counter.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PastorCharlie wrote:

The weight of the tank, pump and water needs to be balanced on the opposite side of the motorhome. So far you have the combination of commode/shower and the counter/cabinet materials weight all on the driver side.



The water will be kind of static. By that I mean, the gray tank and the black tank will fill as the fresh empties, but all the weight will remain in the left rear of the coach.

The Refer will be on the opposite side, along with a pantry and some storage. I would think that should balance out the weight of the water on the opposite side.

There will also be some counter on the opposite side along with the stove.

Overall, it should balance out fairly well.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

He has the stove and fridge on the opposite side, along with some storage. That is supposed to balance out the weight of the fresh and waste tanks and their contents. And, yes, this is definitely an unconventional build. His rig, his choice.




Sounds about right. Thanks.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/20/19 10:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bill.Satellite wrote:

He had already stated that this will not be like any RV ever built so he's going to make his own rules about what, where and when despite logic that says otherwise. No vents in the roof for the shower/bath. No roof A/C. No real plan, just just gluing and screwing things in place, finding that doesn't work and trying again. It's becoming very clear why this "tear down and rebuild" is anything but.



What happened between 7.00 am and 7.00 pm. Forget your meds? Lol. Hang in there. It will look better when finished.

I have to live with the wife in there, so her opinions hold just a touch more weight than yours.

Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 12/21/19 06:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:

He had already stated that this will not be like any RV ever built so he's going to make his own rules about what, where and when despite logic that says otherwise. No vents in the roof for the shower/bath. No roof A/C. No real plan, just just gluing and screwing things in place, finding that doesn't work and trying again. It's becoming very clear why this "tear down and rebuild" is anything but.



What happened between 7.00 am and 7.00 pm. Forget your meds? Lol. Hang in there. It will look better when finished.

I have to live with the wife in there, so her opinions hold just a touch more weight than yours.


A) I am not on any meds which is pretty good for a guy my age
B) I don't think there was an opinion in there, just comments.
C) I could care less what you think of my posts (thoughts, comments or opinions). Maybe you should block me so things like reality don't interrupt your day.


What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

STBRetired

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Posted: 12/21/19 08:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now boys, play nice.

BTW, how long has it been since you fired up the engine? BIL had an pickup truck that sat for 5 years without being run. Engine was locked up when he finally tried to start it. Took a full teardown and rebuild to get it running. Rings were rusted to cylinder walls, bearings were seized, both mains and rods, couple of valves were rusted to the guides. Quite a mess to fix.


1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
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fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/19 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

Now boys, play nice.

BTW, how long has it been since you fired up the engine? BIL had an pickup truck that sat for 5 years without being run. Engine was locked up when he finally tried to start it. Took a full teardown and rebuild to get it running. Rings were rusted to cylinder walls, bearings were seized, both mains and rods, couple of valves were rusted to the guides. Quite a mess to fix.



Probably 2 1/2 years ago. I don't think that will be a problem. Haven't cranked it over since there is no battery in it, but I have no reason to believe it would be locked up.

George Beggs

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Posted: 12/21/19 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Where are you putting the generator?


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STBRetired

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Posted: 12/21/19 08:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:


Probably 2 1/2 years ago. I don't think that will be a problem. Haven't cranked it over since there is no battery in it, but I have no reason to believe it would be locked up.

Odds are that you have at least 2 cylinders open to the atmosphere because an intake or exhaust valve is not completely seated. The coating of oil on the cylinder wall will eventually evaporate and moisture from the air will begin to rust the wall and the top ring. Same with valve stems and bearings. They will dry out and start to rust. Would be a real shame for you to finish the house and then find out you need to rebuild the engine. We don't let our race engines sit for more than 60 days without cranking them over to spread the oil around again. If I recall correctly, you had a lot of rain earlier this year. Moisture is not your engine's friend.

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