โJun-19-2017 06:35 AM
โJun-22-2017 07:34 AM
Passin Thru wrote:
20 more AMPS
โJun-21-2017 08:48 PM
โJun-21-2017 08:41 PM
1Longbow wrote:
The wife just ask me that question and I'm not sure I know the answer,I guess more is better ,little help please ---Thank you
โJun-21-2017 07:27 PM
SoundGuy wrote:Yes easy and second nature to many.time2roll wrote:Such a hardship. :W
With 30 amp service you may have to manage power at times. That is to say if you run everything at once the breaker will probably trip.
โJun-21-2017 05:01 PM
โJun-21-2017 01:56 PM
โJun-21-2017 01:54 PM
myredracer wrote:
Capacity-wise, a 50 amp RV may sound great but - there is a downside to having 50 amps.
The electrical code in the US (NEC) only requires 20 percent of CGs/RV parks to have 50 amp pedestals. As of the 2005 edition of the NEC, only 5 percent had to be 50 amps. So unless you specifically go to a CG that built it above the min. code requirement like some higher-end RV parks, casinos and some gov't. CGs for example, you will find 50 amp pedestals in very short supply and will be forced to use a 50-30 amp adapter. If a CG is old enough, they won't even have any 50 amp pedestals because the code didn't require them. I see 50 amp RVs all the time in CGs using adapters. Not nice for those with large and very expensive MHs and can't run a 2nd AC or any other high demand goodies. The NEC is waaay behind in what's happening with RVs nowadays. RV manufacturers and dealers conveniently don't tell anyone about this...
Yes, there are the 20 amp GFCI repectacles in pedestals (every pedestal requires one by code). Code does not provide for the 30 and 20 amp receptacles to be operating simultaneously and using both together can result in increased voltage drop - usually will be much worse in older CGs too. Having a permanent voltmeter inside to keep an eye on the CG voltage is a very good idea, esp. if using both the 20 & 30 amp recepts. at the same time. If you have an EMS unit, that's great but it's not likely that you will have a 2nd one for the 20 amp recept. so if running an AC unit off it, you could be damaging it.
Unless a person really needs 50 amps, I would stick with 30. Load management is pretty simple. I installed an LED ammeter on the wall (along with a voltmeter) and the current is usually around 15 amps and below and rarely gets near 30 amps. Another thing to know is that a 30 amp breaker won't trip immediately when it hits 30 amps. The way breakers are designed, it will continue to run above it's rating depending on the level of "overage". Drawing 36 amps for ex. would hold for several min. or longer and not trip - long enough to blow dry your hair. To reduces the chances of low voltage in a CG, go to a newer one because the loop-fed pedestals are much less likely to have voltage problems.
30 amp pedestals are often in much worse condition due to a combination of physical abuse, the local environment and people not turning the breaker off before plugging in. To get the most out of a 30 amp pedestal without your shore power plug overheating and going up in smoke, if a pedestal looks to be in pretty tough shape don't use it, keep your plug blades clean and shiny (emery cloth) and always turn the power off before plugging in.
โJun-21-2017 08:45 AM
โJun-21-2017 05:30 AM
pianotuna wrote:
There are ways to be able to operate the AC, water heater, and a hair drier on a 30 amp service. In fact I could run all those devices at the same time on a 15 amp shore power supply. It was not cheap to find the technology to allow me to do so.
I do have to rely that the duty cycle on the water heater is 15 minutes every 4 hours (if no water is being used) and the hair drier is not going to run all day long.2112 wrote:
As an example we can not operate our AC, electric water heater and the wife's hair drier at the same time on our 30A service without tripping the breaker.
A 50A service can handle that and more.
โJun-20-2017 02:26 PM
โJun-19-2017 06:23 PM
โJun-19-2017 05:52 PM
2112 wrote:
I said at the same time. It's hot outside, she just took a shower, my turn to take a shower while she blow dries her hair. I have to turn off the electric water element and switch to propane or the breaker will trip while I'm in the shower.
There may be some expensive technology to help prevent the breaker from tripping but all I want to do is take a shower without running to the pedestal dripping wet. So I switch the water heater to propane. Cheap enough for me.
โJun-19-2017 03:12 PM
pianotuna wrote:I said at the same time. It's hot outside, she just took a shower, my turn to take a shower while she blow dries her hair. I have to turn off the electric water element and switch to propane or the breaker will trip while I'm in the shower.
There are ways to be able to operate the AC, water heater, and a hair drier on a 30 amp service. In fact I could run all those devices at the same time on a 15 amp shore power supply. It was not cheap to find the technology to allow me to do so.
I do have to rely that the duty cycle on the water heater is 15 minutes every 4 hours (if no water is being used) and the hair drier is not going to run all day long.2112 wrote:
As an example we can not operate our AC, electric water heater and the wife's hair drier at the same time on our 30A service without tripping the breaker.
A 50A service can handle that and more.
โJun-19-2017 03:09 PM
ScottG wrote:
The only real disadvantage I can see is initial cost. Unless it's standard equipment, the upgrade will cost around 1K - or at least it did on our AF.