Jack recommendations for small class C motorhome

[HawkTX]

Just got back from a fantastic trip from Dallas, TX to the Grand Canyon and then up to Moab, UT and then over to Colorado and back to home to Texas. Wow!!! What a trip with some incredible sites! So, on this venture I got to thinking on some pretty desolate roads with no cell phone signal what would happen if I got a flat on my Class C (I have a 6 tire set up - two in the front and four in the back) and I couldn't call triple AAA? The setup that came with the RV is pretty weak. Wanted to see what you guys carry in your rig for this type of situation. Bottle Jack? Some kind of car jack? This is my first motorhome and I have never changed a tire on a dually set up like this motorhome has. I'm used to pulling a 5th wheel and have changed several on those. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[Dusty_R]

Just another thought.

For those that have an air compressor in their rig. I wonder how an air operated hydraulic jack would work?
I have only seen them advertised, never seen one or seen one in use.
How large of a compressor is needed to operate one?

Dusty

[j-d]

The pump I pictured is from Northern Tool, and it has a five foot hose, which sounds nice for positioning a jack and being able to pump it from a safe distance.

I remember now, that the Gauge was being used to have the jack serve as a "Scale" which is a clever idea.

What I think I missed (or conveniently forgot...) was dismantling the jack to drill that second hole, parallel to the Piston. I thought the only drilling was in from the side, parallel to the bottom of the base.

So you had to dismantle the jack, and drill down... This seems to prevent using any of the common, newer, jacks that are welded together vs. that "Big Nut on Top."

I can see where drilling the center of the bottom, and tapping the gauge in there, would work OK for a jack used in a hydraulic press, but doesn't look practical for a jack used as...a jack.


Above is a pic of the base of a jack that's been taken apart for drilling. The two 3/16" drill bits are inserted in the drilled holes for illustration of where they're drilled and how they need to meet. This person was using a jack in a press, so personally, I would have simply drilled and tapped the bottom. Vertially, right through the center in this pic.

[Dusty_R]

j-d wrote:

Dusty R wrote:
I added a remote pump to my hydraulic jack.

I remember that, and was looking through gOOgle how to do it. Results not at all clear or encouraging, so I'd like to see how you did it.

Also, where did you source the Hand Pump? How many Ton/PSI?

I wonder, Would it be possible to cannibalize a jack to serve as the Pump? Connect a Hydraulic Hose from Modified Jack "A" (the one with the handle to pump) with a Hose to Modified Jack "B" (that does the lifting)? More I think about it, "Pump Jack A" would have at least the oil capacity of "Lift Jack B"

This one shows Oil Capacity 0.5-Liter, what, about 17-Ounces? Probably enough.

For not much more than I see a pump priced at, there are "Porto-Power" kits that might be useful. Adapt a jack to that pump...

First, I forgot I found the information under adding pressure gauge to hydraulic jack. Just add pump instead of gauge.

Be aware that some of the pipe fittings might be National Pipe Straight, NPS, instead of National Pipe Tapper, NPT, because of the higher pressure.

I think the pump came from e-bay.
I've also seen them new with pipe benders.

Dusty

[j-d]

Dusty R wrote:
I added a remote pump to my hydraulic jack.

I remember that, and was looking through gOOgle how to do it. Results not at all clear or encouraging, so I'd like to see how you did it.

Also, where did you source the Hand Pump? How many Ton/PSI?

I wonder, Would it be possible to cannibalize a jack to serve as the Pump? Connect a Hydraulic Hose from Modified Jack "A" (the one with the handle to pump) with a Hose to Modified Jack "B" (that does the lifting)? More I think about it, "Pump Jack A" would have at least the oil capacity of "Lift Jack B"

This one shows Oil Capacity 0.5-Liter, what, about 17-Ounces? Probably enough.

For not much more than I see a pump priced at, there are "Porto-Power" kits that might be useful. Adapt a jack to that pump...

[Dusty_R]

I think I posted this on here quite a sometime back, so I'll say it again.
I added a remote pump to my hydraulic jack. I still need to crawl under the mh to place the jack, but can kneel beside it when jacking it up. Much easier that way and I don't like laying under what I'm jacking up.
Just do an internet search for how to add remote pump, and for the pump.
If you need help, PM me.

Dusty

[j-d]

Horizon170 wrote:
Mine came with a very nice 6 ton (I think) under the passenger floor board and it telescopes too.

That's the reply I was thinking of, reading another "Which Jack?" thread. Another, BTW, that should be a STICKY

I've heard, can't verify, that "somebody" (presumably Chassis or Coach builders) don't want to expose themselves to liability from providing such a dangerous item as a Jack...

Cobra21 just summed it up nicely: Those whose daddy's taught them how to change a flat on a car can do it safely on a Class C. Those include both of my kids - Daughters! We changed tires, changed oil, changed brakes... and starters, and belts, and even a transmission...

[Cobra21]

I recently changed a blow out on our 21' C. What I have is an 8 ton bottle jack
which lifted the rear easily. I carry 2 pieces of 4 by 4's about 12" long for
under the bottle jack (side by side) which I did use and need. I also had with a 24" piece of 3/4" gas pipe for an extension on the factory lug wrench. With these tools the job wasn't nearly as bad as I had imagined. I would certainly do it again.
Brian (If you can do a car, you can do a C. But the darn tires are heavy.)

[Horizon170]

j-d wrote:

Horizon170 wrote:
Realistically, a three ton hydraulic jack will lift any corner of your RV unless you have it way,way over loaded. For ease of operation a 6 ton will be fine.

Oh, Wait! This is Sprinter-Based. Don't they have a jack already provided? Thought I read "under the passenger seat" or something like that.

The View is light enough, I'd agree that a Six Ton will do the job and be easier to handle. Just stick with a Double Ram.

Mine came with a very nice 6 ton (I think) under the passenger floor board and it telescopes too.

[Hank85713]

Just to add to this, we bought a new hyundai which came WITHOUT a spare! Yes they gave us a small jar of sealant and a can of air, but, would that do any good if there was a blow out? Also we travel in areas where cell service is non existent (sw colorado) and if there is a flat then what? Anyhow went to junk yard bought spare, jack and jack handle from same brand vehicle and threw the styro foam place holder away. So now have a spare for the towd, cost $30, tire had never been on ground it appears. The rv also has its own spare, but it is under the rig and a pia to access but its there just in case. yes we have USAA, good sam, and exxon travel assist, but again they require comms to work. Latest Diesel power mag has an article on how the testers got caught in an area due to taking wrong turn and could not get ANY service, On Star, Cell Phones nothing worked so they had to slog thru 15 miles of slick mud and other obstructions on basically AT tires on their own. So being prepared is a good thing, BTW was that not the Boy Scout Motto?

[HawkTX]

I appreciate all the feedback. I will have the camper over here this weekend and plan on trying some different scenarios. I would rather be prepared than not since we have some trips coming up that include rural stretches.

[Matt_Colie]

Tom,

I hardily agree with you about having the capability to do a tire change. We are also frequently out of cell coverage and I do have Verizon and a 3 watt repeater.

Now, to your case, even if you do find the jack that someone said should be there, see if you can find specific instructions on how to place it. When you know, or think you will buy a jack, go to the house of a friend that has a big compressor and let the air out of a front and both rear tires and make sure you can use the jack from an "on the ground" condition.

Also, carry some blocks if you are not carrying any for leveling and figure out what it takes to shore up the coach while on the jack. Many hydraulic jacks leak down.

Matt - Has a coach for which the OE jack is not real good.

[j-d]

Horizon170 wrote:
Realistically, a three ton hydraulic jack will lift any corner of your RV unless you have it way,way over loaded. For ease of operation a 6 ton will be fine.

Oh, Wait! This is Sprinter-Based. Don't they have a jack already provided? Thought I read "under the passenger seat" or something like that.

The View is light enough, I'd agree that a Six Ton will do the job and be easier to handle. Just stick with a Double Ram.

[Horizon170]

Realistically, a three ton hydraulic jack will lift any corner of your RV unless you have it way,way over loaded. For ease of operation a 6 ton will be fine.

[T18skyguy]

I was in this situation once. I have a 8 ton bottle jack with the screw up extension like mentioned above. I also have an extra long Snap-On breaker bar with 1/2 inch extensions to clear the tire. If I recall I think I carried a 7/8 impact socket for the lugs. If you have the chrome wheel covers, then you need the tool to unscrew the two chrome lug caps to get the cover off. It's good to carry a 4x4 block and a 2x4 also just in case. You also need a portable light if it's at night. The cellphone flashlight would do the trick. This happened 10 years ago, and I'm getting too old to hoist tires. The comment about having Coachnet is a good one.