Front rotors on E450 Chassis

[dennislanier]

Anyone know of a good SPECIFIC video on youtube or somewhere else for replacing front rotors and pads on 04 Ford E450 motorhome? I have done several searches but so far have not found anything but later model stuff etc. I want to do mine soon but would like to know exactly what I am getting into before proceeding. For instance, is the rotor separate from the hub etc. Anyone who has done this themselves please give me whatever information you have about this job.

[CharlesinGA]

I've had brake hoses that I know for a fact were never abused (drum brakes) collapse inside and not allow brake fluid thru. Fairly young 1970 Mustang. Disconnected the line, you could stand on the brake pedal and nothing would come out. Removed line, all kinds of fluid came out of hard tube. It happens.

Charles

[dennislanier]

Thanks for all the great information. As soon as the weather cools down a bit I plan to take a close look at the brakes and go from there. I will probably re-visit this site and have more questions.

[Home_Skillet]

j-d wrote:

rockhillmanor wrote:
1,000 miles down the road went to exit off the interstate and NO brakes, it was the brake lines.

Sounds to me like the mechanic may have mistreated your brake hoses during the brake work. How?

Or, putting vice grips on the brake hose.

[j-d]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Brake job on 2003 E450

I FF'd through that linked YouTube. Now THAT E450 NEEDED a Brake Job. Notice it's a Box Truck. Far worse abuse than we give our RV's.

Note on the Calipers mounted upside down, bleeder down not up. Our new brakes, from a 2012 E450, have bleeders on both ends of the calipers. The Pads have to go in just right, but the Calipers now mount to either side. VERY WISE on Ford's part. Only one part number now. Still different Hoses though, for Right and Left.

You may not have heard this, but starting in 2008, every E150, E250 and single wheel E350 uses the same Brakes and Axles. Actually the E450 and DRW E350 do too. The Hubs and therefore Rotor Assemblies differ according to single or dual wheels. Different springs are used according to weight ratings, but the axles and spindles are all the same.

[j-d]

rockhillmanor wrote:
1,000 miles down the road went to exit off the interstate and NO brakes, it was the brake lines.

Sounds to me like the mechanic may have mistreated your brake hoses during the brake work. How?

Well, every manual tells us to support the Caliper by tying it up, using wire or cord. Common sense tells us not to twist the hose while removing, tying or reinstalling the Caliper. How many are that careful, and how many "stick it someplace." Then it falls, weight of the caliper jerking the hose and straining the connector crimps?

Friend was having front end work done at one of the big tire company stores. Firestone, Goodyear, I forget with. A BRAKE HOSE was supporting the disassembled suspension, against coil spring pressure. Stretched tight as a bow string.

[theoldwizard1]

Brake job on 2003 E450

Assuming you have dual rear wheels, the front rotor looks like this



Raybestos front brake rotor $125 Amazon - FREE shipping

Might as well do it right and replace the caliper and pads.

Raybestos RC10521SV and RC10522SV $56+shipping each after core - Rock Auto

I second the comment of replacing the brake hose.

[rockhillmanor]

I'll just add that while you are in there replacing the calipers and rotors etc, REPLACE the front brake lines.

E450 known problem with them collapsing on the 'inside'. You won't see any damage on the outside.

Been there done that, put new brakes on did not replace brake lines. Mechanic said the looked fine. :R

1,000 miles down the road went to exit off the interstate and NO brakes, it was the brake lines. 😞

[Home_Skillet]

It's not an issue of the vehicle mileage, but the age of the vehicle.
An RV that sits up probably will need calipers and a brake fluid flush.

My calipers would stick in traffic. Causing the pads to over heat and crystallize.
I ended up putting slotted rotors and new calipers that have metal pistons. No issues now.

[dennislanier]

I agree that the mileage should not be a problem, although I have driven quite a few miles in a the northeast Georgia mountains. I mainly want to visually check everything because I don't have a shelter and it is always exposed to the elements. At the very least I figure the caliper pins need lubricating to keep them operating without sticking due to rust etc.

[j-d]

One of our OP's documented an E450 brake job and I want to say he was out around 80,000 miles.

At 19,000 I doubt it needs anything on brakes. Let along ball joints etc.

By pulling the wheels, you should be able to see enough of the Pads to determine the thickness and that they're worn evenly to the thicknesses you can see. And you can see if the rotor surfaces are blued from overheating, or scored from trapped pebbles, etc.

I wouldn't even pull the rotors if they look OK. Cope with Caliper Brackets some other day.

If anything goes wrong with the brakes at this coach's age and mileage, it'll be stuck calipers or collapsed hoses.

Calipers DO NOT always stick on the slides, as often mentioned. The pistons can also get sticky and not allow the brakes to release. That happened to me on our E450 several years ago at about 30,000 miles. It hadn't had much use for a couple years before we bought it.

[pauldub]

You shouldn't need pads or rotors at 19K unless someone drove with their foot on the brake. Maybe around 119K.

[dennislanier]

Thanks j-d for the information. I will check out this website if I need to get new rotors. My first order of business is to jack the beast up and remove the wheels to see what I am dealing with. This MH only has 19K miles but is almost 14 years old so I want to check everything out. Thanks again.

[j-d]

To change Pads and Calipers ONLY, Very Easy.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm
Loosen Lugs, Jack Up, Support Axle on Stands/Jacks, Remove Wheel

Pry the Caliper inboard so it compresses the Piston, Loosening the Pads

Remove Caliper Slide Bolts, may be hex nuts or internal TORX

Prepare Brake Line Caps. I used short pieces of wiper hose with a golf tee in the end

Disconnect Hose at Chassis and Cap Immediately, unclip Hose from ABS wire, use a Tubing Wrench to Loosen and Tighten the Hose Fitting

Lift Caliper, Hose and Pads off the Caliper Mounting Bracket

Replace ALL those Parts, Hose Included

Apply Brake Lubricant such as

Reassemble

Siphon brake fluid out of Master Cylinder till Reservoir is almost BUT NOT empty, then FILL with NEW Fluid

Bleed Brakes NEVER ALLOWING MASTER CYLINDER TO GO EMPTY!!!

Reinstall Wheel, set on Ground, Torque Nuts to 140

Only moderate braking till Pads settle in

To remove ROTORS, you need a 21mm socket/wrench, 13/16" may fit if you get all the rust off the bolt heads, 7/8" SIX Point may also work, and they are TIGHT, about the same as those Wheel Nuts at 140

Remove Caliper Bracket Bolts and Bracket, then Dust Cap and Bearing Nuts/Bearings/Seals etc to re-pack your Bearings

If you need to Re-Surface or to Replace your ROTORS, I suggest you find late model take-off parts from a 4x4 conversion outfit. The parts will cost no more than a "complete" brake job of Rotors, Bearings, Hoses, Calipers, and Pads. You get all-new, Bigger and Better Brakes that are Plug and Play. I didn't even re-pack the Bearings.

Nearest to you is UJoint in Fletcher NC near I-26 about 20 miles your side of Asheville. E350 and E450 dual rear wheel vehicles "donate" the same front brakes.

I got my "kit" from Quigley Motors in central PA, and I got axles and all. That provides all-new Ball Joints, Bushings, and an upgraded Radius Arm design. They crated it and I arranged shipping. The palletized carton weight 400 lb and fit in my compact pickup.