weight distribution hitch?

[wannavolunteerF]

my brother is looking at buying smaller single axle TT. Only 18 ft total length, and 3200 gross weight. He knows he will have to add a brake controller to his F150, but will he need to use WD type hitch? I have no experience with smaller/lighter TT.

[Huntindog]

The difference is need, or want.
People have different expectations for what is satisfactory performance...

Case in point: On another thread, a TT owner is thrilled that his new tires hold air!!

IMO, that is a VERY low threshold for what is satisfactory.

As for this thread.. It will perform better with WD. Will the OP be happier with it, or with saving a few bucks by skipping it? Who knows.

Your opinion may vary.

[TomG2]

Interesting how the aluminum body changed things. My 2017 F150 Supercab with the 5.0 has a yellow sticker payload of 2,320 pounds with no suspension upgrades or tow package. "P" tires.

[Atlee]

My F150 came with E rated tires from the factory. Of course I got one with the "unicorn" package, the HD Payload Package. My cargo capacity when from 1480# in my 2005 F150 to 2286# in my 2014 F150.

My 2014 may ride a little harder than the old 2005, but I don't mine. It certainly isn't too harsh for comfort. Besides, with a truck, I never expect to get the ride of an interstate cruiser like my old Mercury Marquis.

rbpru wrote:
Personally I would never put E rated tires on an F-150. In my opinion they are way to much tire. Others like the feel of them just fine.

The only one who will know if the TT and TV combo ride is acceptable, is the person driving. I tow a large PUP (2500 lbs.) without and a 6000 lb. TT with a WD hitch. both combinations are fine by me.

I have also had good luck with "P" rated GY Wranglers pumped up to 40 psi. Other would fine them mushy. They have served us well in the mountains, deserts, high winds and everywhere else we have traveled over the last 30,000 miles.

Usually bigger, tougher, stronger, is a good idea, if you have a particular problem you wish to address. Doing for the sake of doing may not always be the right choice.

[wing_zealot]

The hitch on my F250 has a sticker on it that says "max load 500 lbs weight carrying, 1250 lbs with weight ditribution". What does the hitch on your brothers F150 say?

[rbpru]

Personally I would never put E rated tires on an F-150. In my opinion they are way to much tire. Others like the feel of them just fine.

The only one who will know if the TT and TV combo ride is acceptable, is the person driving. I tow a large PUP (2500 lbs.) without and a 6000 lb. TT with a WD hitch. both combinations are fine by me.

I have also had good luck with "P" rated GY Wranglers pumped up to 40 psi. Other would fine them mushy. They have served us well in the mountains, deserts, high winds and everywhere else we have traveled over the last 30,000 miles.

Usually bigger, tougher, stronger, is a good idea, if you have a particular problem you wish to address. Doing for the sake of doing may not always be the right choice.

[afidel]

BPRescue wrote:
I agree with the person who said you will get many different answers and while this can help you understand what to look for, you should look at the specs on your door. It's simple really and with the size of that trailer, you will be well within total towable weight for an F150, but will need to pay attention to payload. Your pickup will have a sticker in the driver's door telling you your cargo/ payload limit and the manual will help with what may be ignored such as gas tank weight. Add people, gear, hitch and anything you are going to toss into the vehicle to the hitch weight of the loaded trailer, and if it is under that number on your door, you are golden. Many like to add 20% or so to your payload estimate as to be within spec. Typically tongue weight is 10-15% of the trailer weight but this varies wildly per manufacture and how you load it. It should never be under 10% though. The trailer should show a dry hitch weight within specs, but you need to know what it is loaded. You should have the dealer place batteries, full propane, water tanks and have them weight it. They WILL have a hitch with a gauge for this very task. And as others have said, they will tell you that your vehicle is fine without another word or looking at the spec with most trailers they will show you. Arguably with the trailer you are looking at being 3200 gross (loaded), you likely are Ok unless your human gross is well; gross... This also means you may have to load items in the trailer that you would normally load in the bed. Keeps the dust off anyway...

As for a WD, typically trailers weighing more than 5K require a WD for a 1/2 ton's/your vehicles spec, but again you should refer to the truck's manual, and the trailer as well. You may not need one unless your loaded weight is above 5K.

BTW being a single axel at 3200lb, the trailer will likely have surge brakes and hence not require an electric brake controller... Check with the dealer for the actual model of the trailer to get this info before you buy a controller.

I did not see a single travel trailer with surge brakes in my 8+ months of research and visiting dealer lots, plenty of utility trailers and boat trailers, but no travel trailers and I was looking at light single axles.

[jimh406]

You need to determine if the TT was even made to use a WD hitch. Lighter ones have lighter frames. My wife's uncle has a 18 Jayco. He tows it behind a Toyota Tacoma with the "heavy" tow package. He likes it much better after he added air bags to level it out.

I towed it to Yellowstone and back behind my F450 loaded with my TC. I could barely tell it was there and could only even see it on turns. Still, he wanted to use his sway control that hooks to the hitch. For my truck, I couldn't tell if the sway control was tightened down or not. He likes that addition as well.

Based on his experience, I'd say get the sway control and possibly airbags, supersprings, sumosprings, or timbrens to make sure it is reasonably level.

[BPRescue]

I agree with the person who said you will get many different answers and while this can help you understand what to look for, you should look at the specs on your door. It's simple really and with the size of that trailer, you will be well within total towable weight for an F150, but will need to pay attention to payload. Your pickup will have a sticker in the driver's door telling you your cargo/ payload limit and the manual will help with what may be ignored such as gas tank weight. Add people, gear, hitch and anything you are going to toss into the vehicle to the hitch weight of the loaded trailer, and if it is under that number on your door, you are golden. Many like to add 20% or so to your payload estimate as to be within spec. Typically tongue weight is 10-15% of the trailer weight but this varies wildly per manufacture and how you load it. It should never be under 10% though. The trailer should show a dry hitch weight within specs, but you need to know what it is loaded. You should have the dealer place batteries, full propane, water tanks and have them weight it. They WILL have a hitch with a gauge for this very task. And as others have said, they will tell you that your vehicle is fine without another word or looking at the spec with most trailers they will show you. Arguably with the trailer you are looking at being 3200 gross (loaded), you likely are Ok unless your human gross is well; gross... This also means you may have to load items in the trailer that you would normally load in the bed. Keeps the dust off anyway...

As for a WD, typically trailers weighing more than 5K require a WD for a 1/2 ton's/your vehicles spec, but again you should refer to the truck's manual, and the trailer as well. You may not need one unless your loaded weight is above 5K.

BTW being a single axel at 3200lb, the trailer will likely have surge brakes and hence not require an electric brake controller... Check with the dealer for the actual model of the trailer to get this info before you buy a controller.

[TomG2]

Anyone who can feel a one hundred pound difference in front axle weight should be driving in Formula I. Compare front axle weights between regular cab and crew cab, between diesel and gasoline fueled models. If one or two hundred pounds made a pickup unsafe, why don't they add ballast to the front bumper of gasoline fueled pickups? They don't, because modern pickups have plenty of front axle weight no matter the configuration. The "Light front axle" feeling, if you experience it, is actually an overloaded rear suspension and or tires which allows the rear end to squirm all over the place forcing the driver to chase the vehicle from ditch to ditch.

[Campfire_Time]

The trick is how much weight is being taken off the front tires? If it's enough to reduce steering control then a WDH is needed. It might "tow great" until he's towing in 30 mph cross wind. That's when you'll know something isn't right.

[Mark_and_Linda]

When he hooks up to it and tows it down the interstate....he will know then if he is comfortable with it. Maybe a friction sway bar?

[Steve_B_]

I've towed my small trailer with several different vehicles and never had a WDH. If you have a full size truck, I can't imagine you would need to change anything for a trailer the size you mention, or rather, your brother. I have a new Ridgeline and it says in the manual that a WDH or sway control will not be needed. Tows great.

[ScottG]

WNYBob wrote:
I've said this several times before, you'll probably want to up grade shocks and tires, OEM are for ride not towing.

E grade tires and better shocks.

Yup, may not even need WDH after those upgrades - which I would do first (by buying a HD truck 😉 ) . Sorry, JK!!

[Lynnmor]

wannavolunteerFT wrote:
He knows he will have to add a brake controller to his F150,

Depending on the year he may be able to add a factory brake controller, look on eBay. They are way better than the aftermarket units.