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Roof front seam repair 06 Jayflight

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a used 06 Jayco Jayflight 27BH and knew there was some previous water damage. There was dicor tape across the front seal, where the metal goes over the TPU roof. The repair looked OK at first but has gotten worse, so I'm trying to fix it. After pulling off the "dicor" tape, seems there were multiple attempts made to seal water leak.

Water has gotten under the metal and even the screws are rusted. The metal is no long being secured to the roof, except by the tons of sealant they have applied.

I was surprised there is no sealant between the metal and the TPO roof. There is tons of lap sealant all over, but none under the metal flap and where it's screw in place. I think I will need to drill new holes to secure it as the wood is probably rotten.

I only paid 7k, so I'm not spending thousands to fix it. If I can get 5-10 years out of it, I'll be happy. At some point it may get parked at a site and I'll just put a structure over the top.


So, on to repairs. I have purchased lap sealant, TPO cleaner, and 4" wide Dicor repair tap. The lap sealant and grey residue from repair tape is lot of work to remove. Any ideas to help get it off easy without damaging the roof membrane?

Any thoughts about putting the sealant between the metal and TPU roof where it's screwed down?

The following is google drive link to photos.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_c_V3yd9h5hYXM3clJBUi1hMkU
22 REPLIES 22

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
Jayco254 wrote:
Sounds good, but where you have rot you need to put something like Git Rot or one of the other similar items.


Without peeling back the metal roof and TPO I can't get to the rot. I used 2" screws at an angle, offset by 3" from the previous screws and all were able to bite into wood.

Its a long project to repair, and the local dealer is backlogged. At this point, I'm just trying to prevent any further damage.

I'm looking into purchasing one of the metal RV "carports", and do the repairs myself.

Jayco254
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds good, but where you have rot you need to put something like Git Rot or one of the other similar items.
Tom, Kathy, Nikki, & Kelly
Pets: Lady - Texas Heeler, Dinger - Rhodesian Riidgeback Mix
2008 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4 ci 3.73 gears
2008 Dodge Ram SLT Big Horn 4x4 5.7L Hemi 3.92 gears
2007 Jayco Jayfeather EXP 254
Husky W/D, P-3

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:
drew2fast wrote:
I bought a used 06 Jayco Jayflight 27BH and knew there was some previous water damage.


SoundGuy wrote:
It's hard to understand why anyone would knowingly buy any trailer with such a deteriorated roof, no matter what price it may be, as a proper repair could entail removing the entire roof and starting all over again. :E


drew2fast wrote:
"Always with the negative waves, Moriarty"


Kindergarten kids would call it "Negative Nancy". :W Nonetheless, it's the OP's choice - address the issue as it really is OR bury his head in the sand and pretend this isn't a really bad situation he has on his hands. :R

Sometimes the truth hurts. ๐Ÿ˜ž
Sometimes, a buyer will purchase something that is less than perfect for his purposes. The OP may not care about the ultimate longevity of this rig as it is used as a hunting shack or other.

FWIW, for the past 20 years I've been in the business of fixing folks homes. I also work on commercial business facilities and have built a number of whole homes and garages. The "Home Handyman" area is where 90% of our focus is now. You would be surprised on how many "That's good enough"s I've heard.
Sure, there are some folks that want perfection but there are many more that are amazed that I don't just cobble in a temporary patch. Some are even pissed about it, even after I've explained the economics. There are some that I do as I'm told, even though the customer is shooting himself in the foot. I know I will return, later, to do the same job.

Point being: There are all kinds of folks with all kinds of perceptions and different ways to deal with it all. Perfection isn't always the goal.


Yep...all kinds...and we all make mistakes. Came to the forum for advise on fixing the repair, not to be chastised.

Campingworld has a checklist...but walking on the roof is not on the list. Checking it externally, is not enough. I'm "NOW" a firm believer that you should walk on the roof, if that unit is "walkable".

I've got it halfway patched. Cleaned everything up...got off as much prior sealant as I could. Screwed down new strip and applied sealant on all it's edges and screws. I used butyl tape between the TPO and metal, and between metal and strip. Waiting on it to cure, and will be applying dicor tape.

I also bought a cover, and will cover it when not in use.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
drew2fast wrote:
westend wrote:
If it was me......I'd use Eternabond Roof seal over the TPO roof and onto the metal cap. I'd drill through the Eternabond tape so screws are sealed when attaching the trim. If I was still worried, I'd put another piece of Eternabond over the metal trim.

When I rebuilt my trailer, I applied high dollar elastomeric sealant between the siding and top of the roof frame, between the roof and the roof frame, between the metal trim and the roof material. I still had a couple of small leaks. I then applied Eternabond tapes and all leaking was a memory. I have my own equipment to do a pressurized leak test and have done a few in the first few years. All of the tests showed no leaking wherever Eternabond was used.


Thanks for the advice.

Do you recall what sealant you used? Isn't Dicor Self-leveling the go-to stuff? Is the other stuff really better?
I believe it was a GE product. It's been awhile and, since I'm in the construction biz, I get my hands on a lot of different sealants.

Dicor, as a general view of the company, makes good products. I know the self-leveling lap sealant is what a lot of Forum members use on their EPDM roofs. Whether it's the best for what you're trying to do is beyond my reckoning.

FWIW, I had never heard of Eternabond tapes before coming to this Forum and I questioned whether they were the superior product some members stated. Since I've used them, I can endorse them 100%. They are a good long-time fix instead of the almost yearly sealant recovery most folks do. AFAIK, they are the only barrier tape that has the adhesive in a micro-encapsulated manner bound within the material matrix of the tape. Rolling the tape with a small roller breaks the micro capsules and makes the adhesive stick like there is no tomorrow.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
If it was me......I'd use Eternabond Roof seal over the TPO roof and onto the metal cap. I'd drill through the Eternabond tape so screws are sealed when attaching the trim. If I was still worried, I'd put another piece of Eternabond over the metal trim.

When I rebuilt my trailer, I applied high dollar elastomeric sealant between the siding and top of the roof frame, between the roof and the roof frame, between the metal trim and the roof material. I still had a couple of small leaks. I then applied Eternabond tapes and all leaking was a memory. I have my own equipment to do a pressurized leak test and have done a few in the first few years. All of the tests showed no leaking wherever Eternabond was used.


Thanks for the advice.

Do you recall what sealant you used? Isn't Dicor Self-leveling the go-to stuff? Is the other stuff really better?

westend
Explorer
Explorer
If it was me......I'd use Eternabond Roof seal over the TPO roof and onto the metal cap. I'd drill through the Eternabond tape so screws are sealed when attaching the trim. If I was still worried, I'd put another piece of Eternabond over the metal trim.

When I rebuilt my trailer, I applied high dollar elastomeric sealant between the siding and top of the roof frame, between the roof and the roof frame, between the metal trim and the roof material. I still had a couple of small leaks. I then applied Eternabond tapes and all leaking was a memory. I have my own equipment to do a pressurized leak test and have done a few in the first few years. All of the tests showed no leaking wherever Eternabond was used.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
Denatured Alcohol hardly does anything. Had use mineral spirits to remove some of the grey glue left by the Dicor tape. It's all clean and ready to seal.

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
GrandpaKip wrote:
I would put butyl tape under the metal strip that covers the TPO/front cap, then use stainless screws to fasten it down. Flipping the strip around might offset existing screw holes for a better bite. Longer and next size up screws might also help. Put the vinyl cover strip back in and cover with eternabond. Use lap sealant to cover whatever the eternabond didn't.
I believe you can use lacquer thinner to clean the TPO, but I would definitely check that.
Good luck.


Yes, that is what I was thinking, tape and flipping. I have plenty of butyl tape...shortest length was 30' at camping world.

I found a Dicor sealant video that actually recommends using denatured alcohol.

GrandpaKip
Explorer
Explorer
I would put butyl tape under the metal strip that covers the TPO/front cap, then use stainless screws to fasten it down. Flipping the strip around might offset existing screw holes for a better bite. Longer and next size up screws might also help. Put the vinyl cover strip back in and cover with eternabond. Use lap sealant to cover whatever the eternabond didn't.
I believe you can use lacquer thinner to clean the TPO, but I would definitely check that.
Good luck.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
drew2fast wrote:
Great...Any advise on getting this rig water tight for the time being...

ie..what if anything should I put between the metal and the "robber" roof, such as butyl tape or dicor tape before securing with c-channel.


is it a rubber roof or is it a TPO roof?
bumpy


Its TPO.

The screws which hold down the c-channel are rusted, any thoughts on using decking screws. I was going to drill new holes in the c-channel to offset them.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
Point being: There are all kinds of folks with all kinds of perceptions and different ways to deal with it all. Perfection isn't always the goal.


Avoiding mold & mildew which is dangerous to human health is hardly "perfection", it's common sense survival. ๐Ÿ˜‰
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
drew2fast wrote:
Great...Any advise on getting this rig water tight for the time being...

ie..what if anything should I put between the metal and the "robber" roof, such as butyl tape or dicor tape before securing with c-channel.


is it a rubber roof or is it a TPO roof?
bumpy

drew2fast
Explorer
Explorer
Great...Any advise on getting this rig water tight for the time being...

ie..what if anything should I put between the metal and the "robber" roof, such as butyl tape or dicor tape before securing with c-channel.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
drew2fast wrote:
I bought a used 06 Jayco Jayflight 27BH and knew there was some previous water damage.


SoundGuy wrote:
It's hard to understand why anyone would knowingly buy any trailer with such a deteriorated roof, no matter what price it may be, as a proper repair could entail removing the entire roof and starting all over again. :E


drew2fast wrote:
"Always with the negative waves, Moriarty"


Kindergarten kids would call it "Negative Nancy". :W Nonetheless, it's the OP's choice - address the issue as it really is OR bury his head in the sand and pretend this isn't a really bad situation he has on his hands. :R

Sometimes the truth hurts. ๐Ÿ˜ž
Sometimes, a buyer will purchase something that is less than perfect for his purposes. The OP may not care about the ultimate longevity of this rig as it is used as a hunting shack or other.

FWIW, for the past 20 years I've been in the business of fixing folks homes. I also work on commercial business facilities and have built a number of whole homes and garages. The "Home Handyman" area is where 90% of our focus is now. You would be surprised on how many "That's good enough"s I've heard.
Sure, there are some folks that want perfection but there are many more that are amazed that I don't just cobble in a temporary patch. Some are even pissed about it, even after I've explained the economics. There are some that I do as I'm told, even though the customer is shooting himself in the foot. I know I will return, later, to do the same job.

Point being: There are all kinds of folks with all kinds of perceptions and different ways to deal with it all. Perfection isn't always the goal.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton