7.3. problem

[cekkk]

2002 7.3 TD, 118,000 miles. I bought it in '04 with just over 10,000 miles on it. I have had no problems with the engine at all. A few minutes ago I was driving home and accelerated slightly, I almost never push it hard, and at about 40 miles per hour I heard a backfire.

A mile or two later, having noticed a new noise, I'll just call it a knock as though one piston was making some noise, I started up a 7 or 8% grade of maybe a quarter mile. My speed had been 40 miles an hour it dropped into the twenties and I had to shift into 2nd gear to get on up the hill. In about the next mile I encountered another Hill and I had more power. But still not what it should be.

I stopped in our driveway and opened the mailbox. I think the heat that I felt from the exhaust pipe was more than normal. I'm not sure of that at all because I generally do not reach down and check that.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

[1stgenfarmboy]

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Could be about a million things. First thing I would look at is the intercooler boots.

sorry didn't read any more replys, I think turtle has it.

[cekkk]

I agree it's time to replace them. I'll be going to Riff Raff's site today.

[hotpepperkid]

rhagfo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

Don’t the Ford tubes have lips on them?? I would be very concerned if my post turbo hoses had oil contamination in them, oil leaking from the turbo could cause a runaway engine!

It is not leaking from the turbo. They vent the crank case via the intake so the turbo hoses in time become oil contaminated

[Bird_Freak]

rhagfo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

Don’t the Ford tubes have lips on them?? I would be very concerned if my post turbo hoses had oil contamination in them, oil leaking from the turbo could cause a runaway engine!

Its not a two cycle Detroit.:S

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

Don’t the Ford tubes have lips on them?? I would be very concerned if my post turbo hoses had oil contamination in them, oil leaking from the turbo could cause a runaway engine!

It’s usually oil from the valve cover “pcv” . People block it off on the turbo inlet hose and run tubing from the valve cover to the back of the truck.

^^^ This. The oil comes from the CCV. No big deal but they do get the intercooler hoses all slippery.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

rhagfo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

Don’t the Ford tubes have lips on them?? I would be very concerned if my post turbo hoses had oil contamination in them, oil leaking from the turbo could cause a runaway engine!

It’s usually oil from the valve cover “pcv” . People block it off on the turbo inlet hose and run tubing from the valve cover to the back of the truck.

[rhagfo]

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

Don’t the Ford tubes have lips on them?? I would be very concerned if my post turbo hoses had oil contamination in them, oil leaking from the turbo could cause a runaway engine!

[blofgren]

Bird Freak wrote:

cekkk wrote:
After a frustrating search for a hose problem at the rear of the engine, turns out it was a hose - right next to the radiator on the passenger side. Reclamped it and runs like a top.

Next question, should I replace it before it happens again? Or should it hold? Is there a common cause, age, loosened clamp?

replace it to be safe. I had this happen and it never would stay on until I replaced.

x2 on replacing it. You may want to replace all of the boots and clamps while you are at it given the age of the truck.

I knew it wouldn't be a big problem with that good old 7.3L! :B

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

Replace it and hair spray it like I said in my first post. Once they are oil contaminated it's hard to clean up the oil to get them to hold.

[Bird_Freak]

cekkk wrote:
After a frustrating search for a hose problem at the rear of the engine, turns out it was a hose - right next to the radiator on the passenger side. Reclamped it and runs like a top.

Next question, should I replace it before it happens again? Or should it hold? Is there a common cause, age, loosened clamp?

replace it to be safe. I had this happen and it never would stay on until I replaced.

[cekkk]

After a frustrating search for a hose problem at the rear of the engine, turns out it was a hose - right next to the radiator on the passenger side. Reclamped it and runs like a top.

Next question, should I replace it before it happens again? Or should it hold? Is there a common cause, age, loosened clamp?

[cekkk]

After a frustrating search for a hose problem at the rear of the engine, turns out it was a hose - right next to the radiator on the passenger side. Reclamped it and runs like a top.

Next question, should I replace it before it happens again? Or should it hold?

[marcsbigfoot20b]

hotpepperkid wrote:

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
If it's a hose (in the intake group), go to Riff Raff Diesel and buy their aftermarket hoses. They are the best, I run them exclusively..

Cannot be the cam sensor. It's actually not a cam sensor, the sensor (on the front of the motor, above the harmonic balancer, senses crankshaft rotation and it it fails, the engine won't start, period.

Don't understand the 'hair spray' comment, the hoses clamp on, not stick on.

For any 7.3 of any year, you never want to add a tune of any kind, simply because tuners advance the injection timing and that becomes an issue down the road and finally...

I'd start running a Nano-Borate additive in the engine oil. The injsecotrs in a HEUI engine suffer from sticky spool valves (called 'stiction' and a super lubricant like Nano-Borate, eliminates that sticky condition plus the motor runs quieter and you get better fuel mileage and starts easier cold.

I use Archoil but there are a few on the market.

Been running a 7.3 since 1997 btw.

[COLOR=]For any 7.3 of any year, you never want to add a tune of any kind, simply because tuners advance the injection timing and that becomes an issue down the road and finally...


You cant be serious.....
My 2000 has had a Banks stinger plus system on it since 3000 miles on the odo. It has been used almost exclusively for towing my TT. It now has 167000 miles on it and the last 3 years I have added a RiffRaff wheel, AIS intake and PHP Hydra tunes. I run the 140 hp tune and daily drive it like I stole it.
Still runs like a raped ape.

My 2000 has had a Banks Stinger since 30,000 and it now has 230,000. I have blown off one of the upper turbo hoses and a lower one. I carry spares. The top one is easy to do but the bottom on one I had to loosen the air box and battery box. Lots of fun on the inter-state. Also on the original transmission

I’m on the original trans also. If it goes I will completely understand.
I’m one of the crazies that runs 75 mph up the 8% grades at full throttle adding over 100 hp on the engine and trans for 10 minutes at a time.
I love this 7.3.

[hotpepperkid]

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
If it's a hose (in the intake group), go to Riff Raff Diesel and buy their aftermarket hoses. They are the best, I run them exclusively..

Cannot be the cam sensor. It's actually not a cam sensor, the sensor (on the front of the motor, above the harmonic balancer, senses crankshaft rotation and it it fails, the engine won't start, period.

Don't understand the 'hair spray' comment, the hoses clamp on, not stick on.

For any 7.3 of any year, you never want to add a tune of any kind, simply because tuners advance the injection timing and that becomes an issue down the road and finally...

I'd start running a Nano-Borate additive in the engine oil. The injsecotrs in a HEUI engine suffer from sticky spool valves (called 'stiction' and a super lubricant like Nano-Borate, eliminates that sticky condition plus the motor runs quieter and you get better fuel mileage and starts easier cold.

I use Archoil but there are a few on the market.

Been running a 7.3 since 1997 btw.

[COLOR=]For any 7.3 of any year, you never want to add a tune of any kind, simply because tuners advance the injection timing and that becomes an issue down the road and finally...


You cant be serious.....
My 2000 has had a Banks stinger plus system on it since 3000 miles on the odo. It has been used almost exclusively for towing my TT. It now has 167000 miles on it and the last 3 years I have added a RiffRaff wheel, AIS intake and PHP Hydra tunes. I run the 140 hp tune and daily drive it like I stole it.
Still runs like a raped ape.

My 2000 has had a Banks Stinger since 30,000 and it now has 230,000. I have blown off one of the upper turbo hoses and a lower one. I carry spares. The top one is easy to do but the bottom on one I had to loosen the air box and battery box. Lots of fun on the inter-state. Also on the original transmission