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50 amp outlet

Cougarnewbie
Explorer
Explorer
Ok. I've read what I can find on installing a 50amp in use outlet on my outside garage wall to plug the RV into when in the driveway. It will be about 25 ft. from the 100 amp service panel. My thinking is add a 50 amp breaker, plastic conduit to the front garage wall. 4 wires, 2 black, 1 white, 1 green. The cheapest exterior box does not include breaker which makes me wonder about GFCI? My primary question is what guage wire? Is 1 inch conduit large enough? I am kind of anal about being within code.
As always, Thanks folks
AL
May All Your On Ramps be Downhill
27 REPLIES 27

Cougarnewbie
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Then, there is "upgrading" down here...
Crazy... Looks like a gold mine for copper thieves.

Ok. Who looked behind my TV?
May All Your On Ramps be Downhill

Hank_MI
Explorer
Explorer
theoldwizard1 wrote:
rockylarson wrote:
If your only service panel is 100amps and is going to supply your 50amp RV receptacle and the rest of the house combined then you may need to upgrade it to 200amps. If your 100amp garage service panel is a sub-panel of a larger capacity panel you are good to go.

Not required. Upgrading the service is not a bad idea, it just can get very pricey very fast !


You can feed a sub-panel with half the current of the main panel. So if he's coming off a 100 amp main 50 amp sub is okay.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Thieves?

NYANNT...ZOOT...smoulder.

I don't know where that image came from...

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Then, there is "upgrading" down here...
Crazy... Looks like a gold mine for copper thieves.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Then, there is "upgrading" down here...

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
rockylarson wrote:
If your only service panel is 100amps and is going to supply your 50amp RV receptacle and the rest of the house combined then you may need to upgrade it to 200amps. If your 100amp garage service panel is a sub-panel of a larger capacity panel you are good to go.

Not required. Upgrading the service is not a bad idea, it just can get very pricey very fast !

rockylarson
Explorer
Explorer
If your only service panel is 100amps and is going to supply your 50amp RV receptacle and the rest of the house combined then you may need to upgrade it to 200amps. If your 100amp garage service panel is a sub-panel of a larger capacity panel you are good to go.
Jan and Rocky
Volunteers for USFWS. 29 refuges with 9300 hrs ea since 2006. 2004 Allegro 30DA, Workhorse 8.1, Banks, 2012 Jeep Liberty Jet, Blue Ox Aladdin, Brake Buddy Advantage Select, 300 watts solar, 5 Optima group 31 AGM's, 2000watt Ames PSW inverter.

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
I recommend that you install a disconnecting means at the new outlet - either a combo receptacle/breaker housing or a separate breaker or switch (suitably rated) in a weatherproof box/enclosure adjacent to the new recept.

If you are doing this 100% to code, you probably need to do a load calculation which would include the existing home's load plus the new RV outlet. It could be possible that by calc. you can't do a 50 amp outlet. But do you really need the full 50 amps at home? You *could* wire it all up for 50 amps (incl. wire) and install a 2p-30 amp breaker in the house panel - which you could always upgrade to 2p-50 amps later on.

A red wire would be nice and just personal preference and won't help except for maybe doing a diagnostic check some day. It's not like you have a switch leg or 3-phase. But you can simply take some red electricians tape and wrap it near the ends of the black wire.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
ScottG wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
50 amp is not required to have a GFCI but if you want one you can get GFCI circuit breakers for the sub panel in the garage

Your plan is good... Make sure the wire is heavy enough. I would go with at least 6ga


But you wont want to when you see the price of a 50A GFCI! :E


TRUTH.. I only point out that you can get 'em. THere is a reason (Clean underwear) I've never priced 'em.. Like to keep it clean and I'm fairly sure that might be a problem when I check the price tag ๐Ÿ™‚
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
STBRetired wrote:
If you want to be anal use 1 red, 1 black, 1 white, and 1 green. 6 GA would be fine for 25 feet from panel to outlet. 1 inch might be a little tight. I used 1 1/4 inch for mine. I did not use a box with a breaker, but I am thinking about swapping it out so that I can turn off the power from outside. Just a convenience thing, not a code issue.

What ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ this guy said.

I used 3/4" pvc when I pulled my 30 foot run with 3 of the 6g wires and a 10g ground. I am glad no one recorded what was said. I definitely would not use that size again, but think 1" may be OK. Do get a box with breakers in it so you can turn off the breaker to plug and unplug the RV. GFCI is not recommended on the 50 amp plug, but if you get a box with a 20 amp plug included, that can be GFCI. Even though I own a 30 amp RV. While I was doing the work I decided to plan for future RVs. I used a 50 amp/30 amp/20 amp box with breakers. I am running it off of a 50 amp breaker in the house, so I can not use all 3 outlets to max amperage, but 100 amps (50 amps on each leg) is plenty for me.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
haddy1 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I wound stay away from GFCI, unless it is required by code.


X2 GFCI outlets are known to have issues when connecting to RVs, even when they (the RV) are properly wired.


I think that most often, when this happens, it's because something is not right in the RV: either the fridge element or the water heater element is leaking current to ground, or there's a neutral that's grounding, or something of that ilk--in other words, a genuine ground fault that could be a safety hazard under the right (wrong?) conditions.

It is possible that there's enough benign leakage via power supply filters in electronic devices etc. to trip a GFCI, but as I understand things that's less commonly the actual problem.

Personally, I'd rather find out that I have a ground fault in my RV while sitting at home when I have plenty of time to correct it (and make things safe) than when I get to a campground that only has 20A power available and I can't get the GFCI outlet to stay on.

My house was built before GFCIs were common, and did not have any when I moved in. In putting one into the outlet in the bathroom, I found that it would trip instantly. Hunting around the circuit revealed that one lighting fixture on the circuit had the neutral wire pinched in the mounting bracket, causing it to ground out. I would have never found that otherwise. Fixing that problem made everything A-OK. That's not an RV, of course, but the idea is similar.

Having said that, double pole GFCI breakers are definitely not inexpensive.

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
I'm doing the same thing you are but my cable run is much longer so I'm going for #4 wire.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
If 1" pipe is something you'd like to use, go for it. Otherwise, 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" is a lot easier to pull through.

Yes, a circuit breaker or a switch at the receptacle is a good choice, less steps and better functionality. There are a lot of good arguments for installing a standard pedestal box at the receptacle location. You would have the additional 120V receptacles to use and price is not that much more.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

haddy1
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I wound stay away from GFCI, unless it is required by code.


X2 GFCI outlets are known to have issues when connecting to RVs, even when they (the RV) are properly wired.
2019 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH
2018 Grand Cherokee Toad