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Jeep Wranger flat tow plan, thoughts?

Y-Guy
Moderator
Moderator
I’ve pretty much narrowed down our plan for flat towing our 2011 Jeep Wrangler JKU. My thought it is to purchase the following items;
  • Ready Brute Elite Tow Bar RB-9080
  • Ready Brute Tow Bar Clevis for Blue Ox
  • ReadyStop Towed Vehicle Break Away Kit
  • Iron Cross Front Bumper w/push bar + RockHard bolt-on Blue Ox Tow Bar bracket adapter


Which leaves the wiring the Jeep. I’m looking at the CoolTech, but I’m open to input from others.

Wiring
1. CoolTech JK Tow Harness Deluxe Kit
2. Jeep Wrangler Mopar Tow Vehicle Wiring Harness - 82211156AB
3. Others?

Any thoughts from other Jeep owners?

Two Wire Fox Terriers; Sarge & Sully

2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J

2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon
18 REPLIES 18

FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
Update: Finally had a chance to connect the Jeep to the RV...and as noted by Fire Up, our Wrangler brake lights do com on when its brake pedal is pressed. Thus, the brake activation does "over ride" the RV turn signal.
Now on to plan B!

Gary

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
Thunder Mountain wrote:
Just use the CoolTech harness. It is just dumb easy to install.


Thunder Mountain,
Well Sir, it may be "dumb easy" to install but, it does nothing to remedy this conflicting signal issue we've been discussing. I just corresponded at length, with a Cooltech technician and, he fully admits the problem exists and that many, many RVers are not aware of its happening. He stated what I already knew, that many RVers simply ignore it, even IF they know about it.

It really doesn't do much good to push the issue any further because many people simply don't care if their lights are working correctly or not. Many couples do a light check from the coach to the toad prior to heading out on the road. But, that's a static light check. But, things change drastically when the two vehicles are moving and, the toad has an auxiliary brake system involved.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Thunder_Mountai
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just use the CoolTech harness. It is just dumb easy to install.
2016 Winnebago Journey 40R
2018 Rubicon
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2020 Dodge Ram 2500
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Two old hippies still trying to find ourselves!

FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
Fireup, you bring up an interesting point. I’ll test it next week when we have the RV and Jeep together at the house and update this thread.

Gary

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
FunTwoDrv wrote:
On question 2, the brake lights on our 2014 do not come on when the pedle is pressed. I suspect that is due to the Hopkins wireing harness...I believe it has diodes to prevent this.
Gary


Gary,
First, have you actually pressed the brake pedal when your Jeep is parked and there's no key in the ignition to see if the brake lights come on? The reason I ask is, I too have the Hopkins 56200 wiring harness in our '15 JKUR and, while it does exactly what it's supposed to do, in terms of controlling the motorhomes light signals going to the Jeep, it DOES NOTHING in preventing the Jeeps brake lights from coming on when the pedal is stepped on, while parked and no key in the ignition. This is specifically why I'll use the M & G braking system when I get ready to set it up for toad braking.

And, your thoughts of "diodes" to prevent the brake lights from being activated by the Jeeps brake pedal while being towed, can't work. You see, if there was any form of diodes placed in line with the brake lights of the Jeep, that somehow would PREVENT the Jeeps brake light signal from being sent to the Jeeps brake lights while being towed, it would also mean the same diodes would prevent the same brake light signal AND TURN SIGNALS ('cause they're on the same circuit) from being sent to the Jeeps brake lights when BEING DRIVEN TOO! This because, the harness is not changed in any way, when the coach is hooked up or not. Hope I've explained this right.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
Off Pavement wrote:
Y-Guy wrote:
..."be aware that, if you use a cable system like Ready Brake (aka Ready Brute) or, any other system that pulls or pushes on the Jeeps brake pedal/arm, you will activate the Jeeps brake lights, with its own brake switch, located at the brake arm." While this makes some sense I would have thought the CoolTech or Mopar wiring harness wouldn't allow this to become an issue.


All supplemental brake systems activate the brake pedal in the towed vehicle, and turn lamp over-ride is a common issue and most folks don't worry about as the towed vehicle turn signals work until the brakes are activated.

Not "All" supplemental brake systems activate the toads brake lights. M & G is one. It's installed between the power brake unit and the master cylinder and when activated, their unit pushes ONLY on the piston in the master cylinder and not the brake arm of the toad (Jeep). So, when there's no action of the Jeeps brake arm, there's no activation of the Jeeps brake switch. Therefore, no brake lights. In this case, there's no conflict of signals to the Jeeps brake/turn lights from the M/H and Jeep.

And, while you state that "most folks don't worry about...". Well, the problem with anyone in this situation that doesn't worry or think about this problem is, when they're in high traffic situations, freeways, stop and go, lane changes with and without braking, drivers following have no clue as to the intentions of the motorhome driver with odd signals coming from the toad, due to too many signals being introduced to the tail lights in question.

"Most folks" don't even know about the conflict of signals to the toads brake/turn lights when using an auxiliary brake system.


I don't know if the Mopar harness isolates the brake lamp circuit, but I've read it requires the removal of a fuse or the installation of a switch. We use the CooltechLLC product and think it's as easy as it gets as far as installation. Plug and play with no diodes. It doesn't deal with the turn lamp over-ride issue. My supplemental brake system isolates the Jeeps brake lamp switch and this could easily be done with any supplemental brake system with s simple on-off switch controlling the brake lamp circuit.

I know absolutely nothing about both the Mopar harness or the Cooltech so I cannot say if either of those contend with the brake light issue of a toad or not. You say your supplemental brake system subdues the brake light conflict issue? That's great. At least you've thought about it and people behind you will have distinct signals of your intentions. As for the "Switch" idea, I did that two Jeeps ago. I installed a simple two-way toggle in the door jamb of the Jeep. Long story short, I wired it so that when towing it, the toggle was flipped such that, the Jeeps brake light signal was routed to the dash of the coach.

Then, when driving the Jeep, the toggle was flipped the other way which, would send the Jeeps brake light signal, to the Jeeps brake lights, as normal. There are ways of doing it with relays but, I'm not smart enough to do it that way.


I towed over 80K miles with a fixed arm tow bar, and I'm glad I now have an adjustable Blue Ox Adventa II. For me, the convenience is worth the price.
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Off_Pavement
Explorer
Explorer
Y-Guy wrote:
..."be aware that, if you use a cable system like Ready Brake (aka Ready Brute) or, any other system that pulls or pushes on the Jeeps brake pedal/arm, you will activate the Jeeps brake lights, with its own brake switch, located at the brake arm." While this makes some sense I would have thought the CoolTech or Mopar wiring harness wouldn't allow this to become an issue.


All supplemental brake systems activate the brake pedal in the towed vehicle, and turn lamp over-ride is a common issue and most folks don't worry about as the towed vehicle turn signals work until the brakes are activated.

I don't know if the Mopar harness isolates the brake lamp circuit, but I've read it requires the removal of a fuse or the installation of a switch. We use the CooltechLLC product and think it's as easy as it gets as far as installation. Plug and play with no diodes. It doesn't deal with the turn lamp over-ride issue. My supplemental brake system isolates the Jeeps brake lamp switch and this could easily be done with any supplemental brake system with s simple on-off switch controlling the brake lamp circuit.

I towed over 80K miles with a fixed arm tow bar, and I'm glad I now have an adjustable Blue Ox Adventa II. For me, the convenience is worth the price.
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'10 Sunseeker Class C - Gozer II
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FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
On question 2, the brake lights on our 2014 do not come on when the pedle is pressed. I suspect that is due to the Hopkins wireing harness...I believe it has diodes to prevent this.
Gary

Y-Guy
Moderator
Moderator
I appreciate all the comments. I have a couple questions;

1) For those that have a Jeep and use Magnetic lights where and how did you attach them? I still have the factory bumper so it's mostly plastic.

2) Another user elsewhere stated this, "be aware that, if you use a cable system like Ready Brake (aka Ready Brute) or, any other system that pulls or pushes on the Jeeps brake pedal/arm, you will activate the Jeeps brake lights, with its own brake switch, located at the brake arm." While this makes some sense I would have thought the CoolTech or Mopar wiring harness wouldn't allow this to become an issue.

Two Wire Fox Terriers; Sarge & Sully

2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J

2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
We're using a Hopkins lighting kit from etrailer. It's easy to install and works as described. The only mod we did was to cut off the connector and wire it to our 7pin unit on the base plate.
The bar is a Roadmaster Sterling along with the base plate. For brakes we are currently using the newer Brake Buddy. We're looking at moving to the Stay n Play just to further simplify the hookup/unhook process.
Gary

melandme
Explorer
Explorer
I went with the same Ready Brute set up as you to tow our 2dr Jeep TJ. The hardest part was drilling the bumper for the bolt on brackets. For lights, I am using a set of Haul Master magnetic tow lights. I use a ball bungee to help secure the lights to the bumper. Just run the wire over the tailgate,up the passenger side, out the door and under the hood to the front. Only takes a couple of minutes to setup and take down. Have only used on a couple of trips, but no problems.

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
Y-Guy wrote:
Tom/Barb wrote:
You could do as well with a much cheaper tow bar. Our Falcon II works great on our jeep.

Jeeps only weigh 4500# you really don't need a 10k tow bar.


Good points. I wish ReadyBrute made a lighter weight one. Reason for going with it is that the braking is built in so I don't need to purchase a brake box or something else. At least that has been my rational.


One bad experience we had, when the tow bar broke, I heard it and hit the airbrakes on the coach and the jeep stopped prior to hitting the coach. thanks to a separate brake system.

Be very careful of making sharp corners with the jeep in tow.
With a long overhang behind the rear Axel of the motorhome, it will swing left as you turn right. That leaves the jeep at a 90 degree angle to the coach, so when you drive out of the corner you will drag the jeep sideways.
We tore the front cross member out of the jeep doing that. and the jeep stopped again prior to hitting the jeep.
Our friends had an older CJ, with an after market bumper which had a ridged tow bar, no brakes. bumper came loose and launched the jeep into the ditch and over a bank. totaled it.

lessons we learned the hard way.
separate brakes system
safety chains
rest stop safety inspections
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

mowermech
Explorer
Explorer
Y-Guy wrote:
mowermech thanks for the feedback! I had debated about a fixed arm tow bar but still needing some type of breaks it seems the Ready Brute is the simplest option out there.

I agree! If I ever buy another Jeep, that is exactly the way I plan to go. Simple, purely mechanical, (except for the indicator light, if installed), and it works! I have read very few trouble reports on the system.
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micpib1
Explorer
Explorer
Y-Guy wrote:
mowermech thanks for the feedback! I had debated about a fixed arm tow bar but still needing some type of breaks it seems the Ready Brute is the simplest option out there.


The simplest brake system is one that is built in such as M&G if you have air brakes or SMI Stay and Play if you have a gasser. I have had both and was happy with both.

I tried the SMI Stay and Play on my new Diesel Pusher with Air Brakes and found that because my exhaust brake also activated my brake lights, on long grades I was over heating the brakes on my Jeep Wrangler. I had an M&G System installed and I have been very happy with the whole operation.

Also, I have changed my tow bar to the Blue Ox. I had a Falcon III that did the job, but I found the Blue Ox simpler and a lot less heavy metal to clank around. JH