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 > 8.1 Workhorse exhaust bolt broken

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Ready2BRetired

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Posted: 11/12/17 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have an 8.1 in an 05 Tiffin. Rear most pass side exhaust bolt broken below the mating surface. Any ideas w/o removing the head? Possibly have room to drill and tap not sure. Anyone ever use the KRAL brackets instead of removing the bolt? Open to all suggestions. Really don't want to remove the manifold itself as I believe I would end up with several more broken.

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Posted: 11/12/17 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the bolt flush with the manifold? It's going to be difficult with the manifold in place. Is the gasket leaking? Any cracks maybe best to remove or replace the manifold?

Ready2BRetired

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Posted: 11/12/17 07:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bolt is broken below the surface, no chance of grabbing it with anything. Leaks only on start up for about 2-3 secs then is fine. Don't know how long that will last though.

kevden

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Posted: 11/12/17 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have heard that the kral or dorman brackets work well if the gasket is not blown completely out. I would like to put them on my 6.0l as a preventative.


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wrgrs50s

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Posted: 11/12/17 08:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's not likely you can drill it out with any success. The way I've done it before is to remove the manifold and sometime there is enough of the broken manifold bolt sticking out of the head to get vice grips on and turn it out, but if not enough sticking out, place an oversized nut over it and then spot weld through the nut to the bolt. Let it cool for a few moments and then turn it out. If the broken bolt is recessed into the surface of the head you will probably have to remove it and take it to a reputable machine shop.


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Harvard

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Posted: 11/13/17 08:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had good luck with Grabits on Ford V10 broken manifold studs.

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RLS7201

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Posted: 11/13/17 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As already noted. The easy way is to remove the manifold. Then hit the stud on the end with a hammer. That will shake it loose. Clamp on with vice grip and take it out. Those advocating changing the manifold gasket are at least 30 years out of date. Exhaust manifold to head gaskets are a thing of the past on OEMs. Before reinstalling the manifold, have it surfaced at the local machine shop. Then rub the exhaust ports down with a wet stone and mineral spirits, to clean them.

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Ready2BRetired

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Posted: 11/13/17 07:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the replies. I've decided to try the Kral clamp specifically designed for this issue. For $42 it will be worth it if it works till another stud breaks. Then it will be
time to remove the head I reckon.

ArchHoagland

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Posted: 11/13/17 10:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Let us know how it goes.

Workhorse dealer tried drilling out one of my broken bolts and wound up replacing the head after drilling through a water jacket.

I'm going with aftermarket headers the next time I have exhaust manifold problems. Been through manifold problems twice now.


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T18skyguy

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Posted: 11/13/17 11:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure you use a drill stop. On a Ford, there is only a 1/4 inch of metal at the bottom before you get into the water jacket. Might be the same on the Chevy. IMHO, going to headers after the fix is the best solution. If the exhaust manifold itself is warped greater than .01 inch your going to have a return of the same issue. Go to Banks or Thorley headers.


Retired Anesthetist. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS .Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey. Thorp T18, tons of tools and tons of junk.

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