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Winter battery maintenance

cdcrumba
Explorer
Explorer
This is my first winter with our 96 Winnebago 37 RW. I have to store it in a storage lot and need to know what to do with the batteries for the winter. I believe I have one coach battery and 2 house batteries. I have heard to bring them home and put on a trickle charger in the garage. I have also heard of using a dashboard solar charger plugged on the the cigarette lighter. Any advice would be appreciated.
Chuck and Barb C
Marion, Iowa
1996 Winnebago 37RW #winnebeast
16 REPLIES 16

wyocamper
Explorer
Explorer
I have the extension cord plugged into a Kill-A-Watt and will see how much it actually draws over the next month or so. Maybe not the best approach but it works for me.


Since I plugged it in the Kill-A-Watt has registered less than 1 KWH usage for both battery minders.
2015 Winnebago Vista 27N

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
wvabeer wrote:
gutfelt wrote:
wvabeer wrote:
I removed all 6, 2 12v engine and 4 6v coach and brought them into my much warmer garage and rotate a 2 amp charger. I believe my owners manual recommends this. It doesn't matter I hate loosing a battery over the winter, like most winters.

nothing wrong with your system absolutely not required but effective for sure

I have lost many batteries during cold winter on charge. Not anymore.


only time u would loose a battery during the winter on charge 24/7 was if the battery was weak to begin with
like said your system is great just not necessary
to each their own

wvabeer
Explorer
Explorer
gutfelt wrote:
wvabeer wrote:
I removed all 6, 2 12v engine and 4 6v coach and brought them into my much warmer garage and rotate a 2 amp charger. I believe my owners manual recommends this. It doesn't matter I hate loosing a battery over the winter, like most winters.

nothing wrong with your system absolutely not required but effective for sure

I have lost many batteries during cold winter on charge. Not anymore.
1999 Dutch Star DP3884
2015 Camplite 6.8C
2012 Cherokee 39L destination
2022 F350 XL 4x4
07 FLHRS

wyocamper
Explorer
Explorer
The manual for my Winnebago says the converter is a 3-stage charger, but I don't have a 30A outlet to plug into. I think it would be fine plugged into a 15A extension cord, with nothing connected but the batteries I don't think it would draw much to keep them charged. But then I'd need a second cord to run a maintainer on the chassis battery.

So I ran one cord into the battery compartment and connected one tender to the house batteries and one to the chassis battery. Now I can leave both shut off and not worry about it. On my 5er I pulled the batteries and connected them to the tender in the garage, but that's not practical with the MH.

I have the extension cord plugged into a Kill-A-Watt and will see how much it actually draws over the next month or so. Maybe not the best approach but it works for me.
2015 Winnebago Vista 27N

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
gutfelt wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.


times 2 exactly what to do

matter not what cable u remove + or -
If the battery is dead in the spring then replace it as its weak
no way a good fully charged battery should go dead after sitting 4 months or 6 months that has zero draw(disconnected)


Disconnecting the positives is far more dangerous than disconnecting the negatives.

If the wrench touches any metal that is a ground bad things happen when you’re working on the positive terminals.

If however you are working on the negative side and the wrench touches a ground........ nothing happens.


LOL well I guess if ones so stupid that they don't know any better and somehow his wrench somehow grounds out while removing or installing the cable anything is possible
my point was and is its best to remove a cable so theres zero chance of a power draw

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
gutfelt wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.


times 2 exactly what to do

matter not what cable u remove + or -
If the battery is dead in the spring then replace it as its weak
no way a good fully charged battery should go dead after sitting 4 months or 6 months that has zero draw(disconnected)


Disconnecting the positives is far more dangerous than disconnecting the negatives.

If the wrench touches any metal that is a ground bad things happen when you’re working on the positive terminals.

If however you are working on the negative side and the wrench touches a ground........ nothing happens.

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
wvabeer wrote:
I removed all 6, 2 12v engine and 4 6v coach and brought them into my much warmer garage and rotate a 2 amp charger. I believe my owners manual recommends this. It doesn't matter I hate loosing a battery over the winter, like most winters.

nothing wrong with your system absolutely not required but effective for sure

wvabeer
Explorer
Explorer
I removed all 6, 2 12v engine and 4 6v coach and brought them into my much warmer garage and rotate a 2 amp charger. I believe my owners manual recommends this. It doesn't matter I hate loosing a battery over the winter, like most winters.
1999 Dutch Star DP3884
2015 Camplite 6.8C
2012 Cherokee 39L destination
2022 F350 XL 4x4
07 FLHRS

Cobra21
Explorer
Explorer
I disconnect the house battery, but not the engine battery. Mine are fully charged now. If they are dead in the spring, I don't want them. My batteries stay good outside in the Minnesota winters without a trickle charge.
Brian

10forty2
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.


It's better to disconnect the negatives.

Electrically it makes no matter either way, as an open circuit is an open circuit, no matter where it's open. However, it's generally safer to connect the negatives last and disconnect them first as accidentally shorting the wrench to the frame won't cause a short circuit that way. If you're undoing the positive with the negative still attached to chassis ground, hitting most anything metallic on the vehicle can easily result in a very, very hot wrench very quickly.


Good advice! Keep in mind that ruining the battery is not the only side effect of a spark nearby....those things can explode and cause severe personal injury and property damage! ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE cable first and reconnect it last.
1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor, 36' Gasser
Triton V10, Ford F53 Chassis
-----------------------------------------

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.


times 2 exactly what to do

matter not what cable u remove + or -
If the battery is dead in the spring then replace it as its weak
no way a good fully charged battery should go dead after sitting 4 months or 6 months that has zero draw(disconnected)

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Do your normal battery maintenance service, than as DrewE says, disconnect the negatives.

Next spring, you will likely need to jump the chassis battery with your car for a few minutes before trying to start the engine in the RV. Be sure to disconnect the car before trying to start the big RV engine to avoid damaging the car's alternator.

Once it's running, the alternator will bring the chassis battery up a bit, than start charging the house batteries too.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.


It's better to disconnect the negatives.

Electrically it makes no matter either way, as an open circuit is an open circuit, no matter where it's open. However, it's generally safer to connect the negatives last and disconnect them first as accidentally shorting the wrench to the frame won't cause a short circuit that way. If you're undoing the positive with the negative still attached to chassis ground, hitting most anything metallic on the vehicle can easily result in a very, very hot wrench very quickly.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
charge them. disconnect the positive posts. reconnect in spring or first trip.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.