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What is the object (air valve?) mounted above hot water tank

rodjburge
Explorer
Explorer
In my 1999 Endeavor, I have a minor water leak. During the process of tracking down the leak I found a valve looking object that is in line to the hot water line and mounted underneath my bath room sink above the hot water tank. It is mounted higher than the tank so I think it is an air valve that allows the line to drain properly. Am I correct??
36 REPLIES 36

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
The main purpose of the Black tank Check valve is to STOP ODORS FROM COMING BACK THRU THE LINE. There are 2 types of Black systems. The aftermarket type use the standard City water fill valve that has the built in Check valve and that stops the odor. The 2nd type is OEM and uses the Check valve to prevent the tank odor from going back and out the INLET in the Wash Bay since they INLET does not have a check valve. That is why when you disconnect the hose from an OEM system you have a pint to a quart of fresh water run back out. Doug

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I flush the black tank using "The flusher" I have TWO vacuum breakers. BOth are outside. one can drip down into the "Wet bay" (All plastic and brass) the other is outside the RV entirely (in the hose line)...
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would be recreating the safety device in a place that can leak/drip/fail with no water damage issues.
I don't think it is required to actually be in the RV living space.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Executive wrote:
I was always taught not to bypass anything that I wasn't absolutely,


You had a very good teacher.. I also follow that practice.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

4x4van
Explorer
Explorer
In addition to what Skeetersaurus says (Eewwww), if you remove the unit and replace it with an elbow, it can and likely may siphon **** back out of the line. All it takes is for the black tank level to be higher than the spray nozzle and higher than the hose hookup. Run the flush, then turn off the hose and remove it; the water still in that flush line will drain out, pulling more from the black tank as it goes. That is the very definition of a siphon. The same thing can happen if the valve malfunctions in the flow position; that is closed to the atmosphere and open to the tank. Without an "anti-siphon" valve, **** CAN siphon back out through the hose hookup.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
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skeetersaurus
Explorer
Explorer
I just went through this whole fiasco myself...and am now a verified 'semi-expert' in what an atmospheric relief backflow preventer does (and does not) do...

First off, on page 1 of the comments, there is an excellent picture of the $40 Valterra backflow preventer (in case you are wondering who makes the one shown, which was what I had).

On my 40' Cedar Creek 5er, my problems started long ago (apparently) and I was oblivious to the start...only started 'fixing' things as they failed...until all was replaced. To START with, I noticed a POWERFUL stench and bad 'bubbling' issues when I would flush my toilet...TONS of back pressure. I thought it through a bit, and figured 'hey...I'll bet my tank vent pipe is plugged up...might need to run an auger through it to clean it out'...and with this, I got up on the roof, popped the rain cap on my black tank vent pipe, and began to auger. I WAS HORRIFIED...after running a power-auger for a good 3-minutes (and drilling through what had to be 4-6 inches of ****), I finally punched through to the tank cavity itself! IT HAD BEEN COMPLETELY PLUGGED! (and the most god-awful stench you've EVER smelled rose up like demon-hordes coming for me)...seriously...that stench stayed in my nostrils for 2-days afterward.

Well, I figure 'hey, great, now time to turn on the tank flush system and give the old black-tank a good rinse out'...so I turn it on, and I have two PEX joints pop...nice...hello Shark Bites and new pex.

Ok...time to turn on the water (again)...time to wash the old tank. I turn on the water, and within 2-minutes, I have water spraying down from the upper deck's hole-in-the-floor...you know, the one where the plumbing passes up to the bathroom sink basin (where the backflow preventer resides). Ok...city water off, running for the bathroom...to find...NOTHING! Maybe a drop, but no more!
HMMMMMM....
I go back out, got water all over the elbow and PEX at the floor pass-thru...ok, must be a cracked (plastic) PEX elbow...so I cut it out, SHARK BITE the repair, good as new. Turn the city water back on (I had the outdoor shower, which I use to pass into the 'tank wash' fitting port, turned off at the time)...I turn the shower back on, and I have WATER AGAIN! Spraying down!!! WTH?

So, I turn off all water, go back to the bathroom, check up under the sink...and this time (with a bright halogen flashlight) fully scope out under the basin...and then I see it...the backflow preventer valve...water glistening all over it...the top cover cap slightly askew...IT WAS CRACKED!!! The backflow preventer housing had cracked...almost in half!

To make matters worse, the 'tank side' of the valve was HALF FULL OF ****! (yes...real ****...no imitations here).
So, Needless to say, I ran to the nearest RV store...picked up a Camco backflow preventer, and installed the replacement. No more troubles...works like a charm, and all is well (for now).

HOWEVER...lessons from this include some interesting ones (that refute what a few people have said in this long thread):
1. YOU CAN BACKPRESSURE a backflow preventer by way of a closed black tank valve and a plugged vent pipe...resulting in some ungodly pressures in your black tank on a hot day!!! This will PRESSURE FORCE FECES up your black tank wash line, all the way to your backflow preventer! (I have a picture of the nasty thing, but care really not to post it here).
2. Park water pressures are high, but not high enough to burst a new valve...but the same can't be said for a 7-year old piece of plastic...they age, they get brittle due to chlorine, and they fail.
3. When you go down the road, you vibrate and shake...this does NOT do good for any plastic you have banging around (including your backflow preventer).
4. BACKFLOW PREVENTERS serve a purpose...because had I not had the one (that failed), I would have backflowed FECES into (at least) my outdoor shower water manifold! While it would NOT have entered 'city water', it could easily have reached my shower manifold...and I don't really want that to happen. I guess if you are plumbed up differently, then you MIGHT have gotten FECES into your own RV fresh water PEX...can't really address that here, though.
5. Every time I am tempted to 'just take the backflow preventer out of my system and put an elbow in there', I consider what the tank-side of that backflow preventer looked like...and I stop considering the thought further...


Skeeter Saurus
2010 Chevy 2500HD LS9 6.0 Vortec (360HP/370Torque)
5,000-lbs Air Lift suspension (10,000#-GVWR)
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10forty2
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
odds are it is the Black Tank Flush check valve. Doug


That's what and where MINE is!

Looks very similar to this

1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor, 36' Gasser
Triton V10, Ford F53 Chassis
-----------------------------------------

Passin_Thru
Explorer
Explorer
It is a Air Valve called a Schraeder Valve. You have a rubber bladder in the top of the tank and you are supposed to put air in the bladder to prevent pipes from going BOOIIINNGGG! Tew tanks have them anymore as city Pressures aren't 80lb like we have at home for our farm animals. That's what it is. Call Ferguson Plumbing and ask.

3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
My TT came with a check valve installed on the downstream side of the anti-syphon valve pictured by BB_TX . The check valve is a separate plumbing fixture screwed right into the outlet side of that anti-syphon valve. Each serves a very different purpose.

If my anti-syphon valve ever causing me any problems (leaking), I will eliminate and just keep the check valve (back flow preventer) in the black tank flush line.

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
dougrainer wrote:
OK, NONE of the answers to WHY it is needed are wrong.
1. There is NO way the black tank can backfeed to the fresh system as long as all connections are to factory install and use while camping. There is NO cross connection to the fresh system at all.
2. The REASON the check valve is installed and the REASON it is HIGHER than the Black tank is to keep Black tank odors from migrating back out the Inlet in your water bay. Most OEM installs the inlet does NOT have a check valve like the check valve on the City Water inlet. That is designed so when the black tank flush has completed, when you remove the pressure hose, you will see about a pint of water flow back out. That is fresh water in the line up to that check valve. Then the check valve keeps the odors inside the tank.
3. Aftermarket Black flushes have the check valve either at the tank inlet or the connection has the check valve like on a City Water connection, so there will be NO check valve under the Lavy sink. Doug

1. The reason for the antisiphon valve is to prevent any possibility of black water siphoning back to the park faucet and water supply. Has nothing to do with the RV fresh water system. There is a very remote possibility that under certain unlikely conditions, some black water or black water residue could siphon back to the park or public water system if the antisiphon valve were not present. Same reason a home lawn sprinkler system requires one.

2. The is not true. The antisiphon valve actually provides a direct air path to the the black tank flush head so that any water in the flush line after the valve can driain into the black tank. That is why it is called an Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker valve. All you need to do is look at a cross sectional view of one of those valves. Someone recently posted that their valve leaked and they found that stink bug(s) had crawled in thru the top cap of the valve and prevented it from closing completely.



I removed mine, but installed an external check valve to prevent any possible backflow.

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
gutfelt wrote:
Hondavalk wrote:
Ya who needs the silly pesty codes. What ever could they be good for. :B :E :B


agree theres a ton of em out there that serve no purpose except in some ah engineers weird mind
actually never thought about what doug thinks its for but could very well be


No, they are there for a purpose. Just because YOU do not know enough to understand the purpose does not mean they have no purpose. READ my response after yours. BTW, did not understand your post about a Diplomat. I never stated that they are not at the Lavy sink. I stated that AFTERMARKET installs will not have that type check valve. Doug

so what did u say besides what u said ?
so there will be NO check valve under the Lavy sink. Doug


I never ever said there was no purpose I just said its not a mandatory thing to have in other words we can live with or without one when mine went bad and friends I simply eliminate the useless POS back flow check valve assembly

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
As their NAME implies they are an 'ANTI-SIPHON' 'Vacuum Breaker' 'BACKFLOW PREVENTER'

Anti-siphon so Contaminated black waste liquid does not flow out the flush connection
Vacuum breaker because they allow atmospheric air into flush system and stops any negative pressure which could allow siphoning from waste tank
Backflow preventer because internal Disc closes and physically stops any back flow

They can fail.......disc hangs up and doesn't seal off opening to atmospheric air thereby allowing flush water supply to spray inside the RV (typically under bathroom sink, in closets and some are even behind the shower wall......none are ideal spot due to water leaking)

LOTS of things would have to fail in order for black tank waste liquids to backflow.
Supply water source would have to quit
Black tank liquid level would have to be extremely high....high enough to be above top of piping for flush system ie: backed up into vent line high....in order for waste liquid to backflow.
That means waste tank line to toilet would have to be pressurized/toilet bowl seal holding/not overflowing in order for waste liquids to back up high enough in vent line to force liquids thru the flush spray nozzle into flush lines up to connections where anti-siphon valve was and then out side of RV into water supply system.

Possible...........sure
Probable ...........Not very likely

Besides a simple hose end vacuum breaker would be all that is necessary should anyone CHOOSE to eliminate the piece of junk anti-siphon vacuum breaker backflow preventer valve inside their RV so that WHEN it leaks it doesn't cause damage inside their RV

Hose bibb vacuum breaker





Anti-siphon vacuum breaker backflow preventer valve (RV Flush System)






SO YES.they can be removed -----hard piped if OWNERS choose to do so.
Then just attach a hose bibb vacuum breaker to flush connection and SAME prevent is in place WITHOUT leaks inside the RV





NOW if OP would just reply whether or not this is the valve he is asking about??????
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
gutfelt wrote:
Hondavalk wrote:
Ya who needs the silly pesty codes. What ever could they be good for. :B :E :B


agree theres a ton of em out there that serve no purpose except in some ah engineers weird mind
actually never thought about what doug thinks its for but could very well be


No, they are there for a purpose. Just because YOU do not know enough to understand the purpose does not mean they have no purpose. READ my response after yours. BTW, did not understand your post about a Diplomat. I never stated that they are not at the Lavy sink. I stated that AFTERMARKET installs will not have that type check valve. Doug

gutfelt
Explorer
Explorer
Hondavalk wrote:
Ya who needs the silly pesty codes. What ever could they be good for. :B :E :B


agree theres a ton of em out there that serve no purpose except in some ah engineers weird mind
actually never thought about what doug thinks its for but could very well be