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 > Automatic or manual leveling kits

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maillemaker

office

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Posted: 01/04/18 02:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our 1990 Winnebago Warrior had HWH flip-down jacks installed by the original owner shortly after he bought the rig.

Ours have 4 independent levers for each jack. Never thought about the frame wracking - good point to consider!

We have never had any problems with our jacks deploying or retracting, and the system is nearly 30 years old.

Jacks are good for leveling, but what I find them more important for is stability. Without the jacks, every time someone rolls over in bed the entire RV rocks and floats on the suspension, shaking everyone else in their beds.

With jacks, the house becomes rock solid.

Steve


1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"



ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 01/05/18 07:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Reading through the replies, some of you mentioned that your rig is unstable when parked. If your rig moves badly when someone walks around inside or rolls over in bed, it must also be unstable when driving. You should benefit in multiple ways with heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars, something to think about.

Someone up higher mentioned having little bubble levels. I stuck on little bubble levels on our rig two near the driver for front/rear and left/right leveling to help maneuver the rig on an uneven parking pad. It is remarkable how often I can level our 24' rig by placing a front tire down into a dip or high up on a mound.

I also adhered Hoppy brand levels on each side of the rig by the rear axle, and one in the back dead center. They help a lot to determine how many Lynx blocks to stack. One mark on the level equates to one block. They help to ease the hassle of leveling.

This is a Hoppy brand level. Note the tick marks. One tick mark equals one inch.
[image]

One Lynx block is one inch tall. They are light weight and store compactly and cleanly. I also bought wheel chocks and top caps. Everything works well together.
[image]

* This post was edited 01/05/18 07:43am by ron.dittmer *


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 01/05/18 07:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.
C's are different from A's in that they have less advantageous mounting points. This tends to cause:

1. Front Jacks too far toward the Rear
2. Rear Jacks too far Forward
3. Insufficient Side to Side Spacing of Front and Rear Jacks due to the Narrow Chassis


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

maillemaker

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Posted: 01/05/18 12:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.


I don't see how that could possibly be true. Sitting on a suspension, the frame is going to float on the suspension. No matter how rigid your suspension is, as long as it has shocks and springs it's going to give - that is what suspension does.

Sitting on jacks, the frame isn't going anywhere.

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 01/05/18 03:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The frame on solid jack stands should be more stable than on a suspension with heavy duty stabilizer bars. But sensitive side-to-side movement is reduced with HD bars so much that stabilizer jacks won't be worth fussing with. Then adding the huge benefit with handling the rig when driving it, you can't go wrong with HD stabilizer bars.

Cider

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Posted: 01/17/18 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter

ron.dittmer

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Posted: 01/17/18 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cider wrote:

As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter
I agree.

We were invited by family to share a camp site in Glacier NP west side that was ridiculously sloped. 6" of Lynx levelers wasn't even close. There is no way I would have trusted auto-levelers for fear they would bend or fold or something else gone terribly wrong.

2 full sets and one partial set of Lynx levelers & top caps, and also those wheel chocks work well for us in the crazy places we sometimes find ourselves in. Our 3 blue zippered storage bags full plus the box for wheel chocks can't be weighing more than 15 pounds. And they don't take up all that much space either.

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