Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: On-demand water heaters
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Oldtymeflyr

Arapahoe Hills, CO

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Joined: 04/18/2004

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Posted: 01/05/18 03:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We are thinking about switching out our tankless to a more standard tank unit.

Rick

FunTwoDrv

NC

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Posted: 01/05/18 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another option we have seen is to install a recirculating system. This would flow through the heater even with the faucet off. They can be controlled by a simple switch so they aren't on continuously. Just a thought...

Gary

T18skyguy

Eugene, OR

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Posted: 01/05/18 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The previous generation of Girard tankless had a recall for defective gas valves. My 2017 has the correct valves marked with with a white plastic circle around the top of them. Look at the unit and you should see the two valves on the lower left of the unit. Tankless is not the best for dry camping as said above, but if your on hookups, this is my method that works fine for me.

1. Purchase a high quality Rinaldo adjustable water pressure gauge. You can get it on Amazon. I set mine at 60psi and I usually see a running pressure of about 40psi. The standard regulators sometimes keep the pressure too low.
2. Set the water temperature at the wall to 105 degrees
3. Use only hot water no cold. You don't need to mix in cold cause the water temperature is set.
4. Turn your hot water on full in the shower and leave it there. No on and off because the unit will cycle on/off and you get uneven cycle. Don't even touch the cold water in the shower.
5. Go to camping world and get a black water cap that has the built in hose connector. Connect a hose and just leave your grey valve open and drain the water down the sewer. At the end of your trip go back to the solid cap and collect some grey water so you can fill the black tank with fresh water/chemical. Hope it works for you. I'm happy not to use the campground showers anymore.


Retired Anesthetist. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS .Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey. Thorp T18, tons of tools and tons of junk.

paddykernahan

Westland, MI

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Posted: 01/05/18 08:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FunTwoDrv wrote:

Another option we have seen is to install a recirculating system. This would flow through the heater even with the faucet off. They can be controlled by a simple switch so they aren't on continuously. Just a thought...

Gary


I made a valve controlled connection from the hot water low point drain (winterizing valve) to the fresh water winterizing drain. With the valve opened the pump runs constantly taking the on demand heated water through the hot water system.

Once the shower head is cleared of cold water, you have constant hot water.

When done with shower mode, turn off water pump until recirculating valve is turned of and the system put back in normal mode.





Farmboy666

Pisgah Forest, NC

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Posted: 01/05/18 09:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kerrlakeRoo wrote:

I have one in my home (S&B) and dont like it. We have to trickle water from the bathroom sink to keep the volume through the water heater high enough to keep the unit from switching off. Being on a well my pressure fluctuates between 45 and 65 PSI, and tankless units want a perfectly constant flow to maintain a temp so its not a good match. And an RV has the added issue of limited storage for both fresh and gray water making that even more problematic.

I don’t know what brand or how old your heater is but you have a problem. Yes you need a certain flow to kick it on but you shouldn’t need to open another faucet. They don’t need a perfectly constant flow as you said, just enough flow to kick the burner on.
I have a Noritz and am on a well and have zero problems. Rv system is a different story.

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