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 > Pulling a jeep

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klutchdust

Orange, California

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Joined: 06/09/2004

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Posted: 01/06/18 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron asked: "Are you maintaining the stock wheels & tires for towing? "

My 08 wrangler has aftermarket wheels but stock size. The tires are the same size as stock, no lift kit. I forget it is back there and see it in my mirror when making a turn. Occasionally when making a left turn I get a little chirp out of the front wheels. The tires wear fine, my hitch is within specs. I watch it with the camera sometimes but haven't figured it out.

To the original poster here is my 2 cents when outfitting your rig to tow. Do it right the first time, avoid stick on magnetic lights, get the proper wiring, the hitch, the braking system. I use a hydraulic brake actuator in my hitch. Going cheap means doing it again. RV'ing isn't inexpensive however it is more fun when you just hook up and go.
You will really enjoy having your jeep with you.......

Off Pavement

The Silver State - Nevada

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Posted: 01/06/18 10:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our '97 Wrangler had 4" of lift and 35" tires and towed without any issues or abnormal tire wear at all.

We now tow a '13 Wrangler Unlimited with 3" of lift and 37" tires with more wheel offset than I towed before. Still no issues. Your alignment must be good, and no worn steering components to tow a modified Jeep IMO>


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Olddud

Lost in Kansas

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Posted: 01/06/18 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We tow a standard Rubicon (behind a Sprinter) as comes from factory, with proper baseplate and towbar. The Jeep is charged from the motorhome, and lights are wired to work off the motorhome.

Have never noticed any tire wear, heard any chirping, or witnessed any problems turning while viewing from mirrors. We have turned as sharp as possible several times and I have watched the tires, mainly to see if something isn't going right back there. Never saw anything that would make me worry, although I never knew there might be something like tire scrubbing. Just looked at the tires and there is no unusual wear, although Wranglers will eventually wreck the tires because they get out of round. It takes me about 20K miles before I hear a pronounced, repetitive tire rumble. Even rotate the tires, but it still shows up.

Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/06/18 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Off Pavement wrote:

Our '97 Wrangler had 4" of lift and 35" tires and towed without any issues or abnormal tire wear at all.

We also tow a lifted (4") jeep with large tires (35.5"). and see no abnormal tire wear. we do rotate every 5 k miles. but see no accelerated wear.

we have about 40k miles on this set, and we have no wear at all. we have towed this set about 15k miles.

TOYO Open Country, 35.5 X 12.5 LT


2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JK toad.

Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/06/18 02:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Always make your turns wide as you can, every little bit helps, start wide, turn wide, and end up wide.

never start pulling ahead with the steering wheel cramped over.

When turning left, I start the turn from as far right in my lane as I can cut the turn as short as I can and end up far right in my lane as I can.

every little bit helps.

When I know I'll be in many city type corners I'll put my Jeep up on the trailer, I often do anyway. I can back it up, and it saves wear on the jeep.

and as an after thought, the wear on your jeep is totally dependent upon the over hang of the coach, the longer that is the more your jeep will suffer.

MDKMDK

Canada

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Posted: 01/06/18 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

klutchdust wrote:

Ron asked: "Are you maintaining the stock wheels & tires for towing? "

To the original poster here is my 2 cents when outfitting your rig to tow. Do it right the first time, avoid stick on magnetic lights, get the proper wiring, the hitch, the braking system. I use a hydraulic brake actuator in my hitch. Going cheap means doing it again. RV'ing isn't inexpensive however it is more fun when you just hook up and go.
You will really enjoy having your jeep with you.......


Are you towing on a dolly? I've never heard of using a hydraulic brake actuator built into a hitch, except the forward momentum actuated surge brakes in a tow dolly's hitch/yoke.
How does your hydraulic brake actuator in your hitch work when towing 4 down? Sorry for asking, but I'm relatively new at the towing game myself.


Mike.
2018 Navion 24V "Goldilocks" 2016 JKU "Red" (sold @ ???)
2016 Sunstar 26HE (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

klutchdust

Orange, California

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Posted: 01/06/18 03:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MDKMDK wrote:

klutchdust wrote:

Ron asked: "Are you maintaining the stock wheels & tires for towing? "

To the original poster here is my 2 cents when outfitting your rig to tow. Do it right the first time, avoid stick on magnetic lights, get the proper wiring, the hitch, the braking system. I use a hydraulic brake actuator in my hitch. Going cheap means doing it again. RV'ing isn't inexpensive however it is more fun when you just hook up and go.
You will really enjoy having your jeep with you.......


Are you towing on a dolly? I've never heard of using a hydraulic brake actuator built into a hitch, except the forward momentum actuated surge brakes in a tow dolly's hitch/yoke.
How does your hydraulic brake actuator in your hitch work when towing 4 down? Sorry for asking, but I'm relatively new at the towing game myself.


I couldn't think of the brand name so I wrote that but it is called a "ready brake" It slides into the receiver of the RV then the tow bar slides into the ready brake. Check it out.

MDKMDK

Canada

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Posted: 01/06/18 03:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks kd. I'll have a look.

Interesting methodology as described. I'll see if I can find a demo video. Website says it works on anything except old VW Beetles with the "mash it to the floor" brake pedal. Thanks.

Install video was very enlightening, too.

I'm using all Blue Ox hardware, and so far, so good.

* This post was edited 01/06/18 04:05pm by MDKMDK *

smj

calif

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Posted: 01/06/18 04:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Blue Ox makes / made a surge type brake system, also. It fits in between you receiver and tow bar. It works very similar to the Ready Brake. I have both but have never used the blue ox. ( I bought it when I needed a replacement quickly for my ready brake . The ready brake was repaired very quickly, so I didn't need to rework my setup to use the blue ox. It's still in the box).
I use the ready brake to flat tow my 4 door jeep rubicon on 35" tires, about 5000 lbs. It works really well. I have towed over and within the Sierras and the Rockies many times. The jeep brakes aren't applied when using only engine braking down a long grade. They don't activate unless you apply moderate or strong braking of the tow vehicle. I think its a great solution and doesn't require extra parts to be installed in the driver's floor area every time you tow. In fact its a very simple mechanical device with very few parts to fail, no electronics at all. Only special consideration is the tow bar must be within 2" of being level when the rigs are on level ground. This prevents binding of the brake mechanism.

As far as OP, I have a 3.5" lift and 35x12 tires with no wear problems from towing over 10k and 30k+ on this set of tires- KO 2 .
good luck,
Stuart

Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/06/18 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smj wrote:

Blue Ox makes / made a surge type brake system, also. It fits in between you receiver and tow bar. It works very similar to the Ready Brake. I have both but have never used the blue ox. ( I bought it when I needed a replacement quickly for my ready brake . The ready brake was repaired very quickly, so I didn't need to rework my setup to use the blue ox. It's still in the box).
I use the ready brake to flat tow my 4 door jeep rubicon on 35" tires, about 5000 lbs. It works really well. I have towed over and within the Sierras and the Rockies many times. The jeep brakes aren't applied when using only engine braking down a long grade. They don't activate unless you apply moderate or strong braking of the tow vehicle. I think its a great solution and doesn't require extra parts to be installed in the driver's floor area every time you tow. In fact its a very simple mechanical device with very few parts to fail, no electronics at all. Only special consideration is the tow bar must be within 2" of being level when the rigs are on level ground. This prevents binding of the brake mechanism.

As far as OP, I have a 3.5" lift and 35x12 tires with no wear problems from towing over 10k and 30k+ on this set of tires- KO 2 .
good luck,
Stuart


We use one of THESE

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