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Tip on the right tool

rickhise
Explorer
Explorer
Anybody else's have an issue with replacing the hot water tank drain plug.
My issue is keep the drain plug started in straight.
Simple I know. Lol
Perhaps a pair of vice grips would work better than a socket
28 REPLIES 28

jsteih
Explorer
Explorer
Epoxy a rare earth magnet down inside the socket. Then you can start it with the socket and extension, and finish with a ratchet.
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BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
You guys are missing the point....I added the D ring NOT to get the plug started but so I could tighten it without needing any tools. One of the reasons these nylon plugs break so easily is because it's too easy to over-torque them with a 1-1/8" socket and extension.

A little teflon tape on the threads and finger tight is all you need for this plug. The reason it's nylon to start with is to avoid any kind of galvanic reaction with the tank so the plug doesn't corrode in the hole...

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
Lar114 wrote:
I got rid of the nylon plugs, they would be hard to get stated after I had one break off then had to cut it out in pieces with a hack saw blade.
Went to Home Depot and bought a brass plug. It starts a lot easier now with 17mm socket with a 6 inch exstention and 3/8 ratchet. Only need to snug it so it doesn't leak, also use Teflon tape. No problems.


Lar, that just happened to me 3 months ago while winterizing. I was wondering how to remove the remnants of the plug without damaging the threads. So, you had no problem with the hacksaw technique and the brass replacement went in smoothly?

sneakygroundbuz
Explorer
Explorer
i was an auto tech for 25 years. over the years i had to try and start many nuts and bolts in areas that were very hard to reach,and one could really only get the nut/bolt in the area with the aid of a socket and or an extension.

what i learned to do to keep the nut/bolt from falling off of the socket while trying to line it up properly was to take a piece of elec tape(sticky side to the socket) over the socket and then place the nut/bolt in the socket.

this would hold it secure enough that it wouldnt fall out while trying to line it up with where it needed to be.

with the sticky side of the tape in the socket,prevented the tape from staying on the nut/bolt.

other techs would fill the socket full of wheel bearing grease,but i found that to be to messy and i hate slippery dirty tools.

just a thought,it may work for this application also.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
As promised, here are a few pics...looking again, I didn't use coat hanger, I believe that's 1/8" rod that I bent. The rod is not glued in the holes so the D-ring can pivot as needed.





scottykrug
Explorer
Explorer
Somewhat related..... I found that a cheapo 3/4โ€ stainless bristle brush (couple of dollars at any hardware store) (used for prepping copper pipe solder joints) worked for removing any gunk from the threads on the water tank. I cut off the plastic handle and inserted what was left in my cordless drill. Run the brush back and forth a few seconds and the threads are shiny. Just make sure to rinse the tank to remove any of that gunk or any of the bristles came loose.
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ependydad
Explorer
Explorer
I was reading on another forum that if you take a couple wraps of a paper towel, you can "wedge" The end of the plug into a socket. Then you can make sure everything is nice and straight and get it cleanly started by holding onto the socket vs. the small end of the plug itself.
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BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Old Biscuit, by all means use my idea! I'll snap a pic of the actual piece in a day or two when the snow drift out by the TT melts down a little....

I agree on overtightening and that's part of the problem with using a socket. The hex on that plastic piece is like 15/16" if I recall, and with that size socket it's sooo easy to overtorque that plastic plug.

Drill the holes on the sides like 1/8" deep or thereabouts...not too deep where you compromise the plug, but deep enough where the wire isn't falling out.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
I added a 1/2 x 2 inch long brass nipple and a 1/2 inch brass ball valve to an Atwood WH once. I needed to removed the valve's lever handle so I could screw the valve into place. I kept the handle in the silverware drawer where I would find it when I needed to drain the WH. I never had a problem draining the tank. I also kept a 1/2 pipe thd x 3/4 hose barb with hose attached to screw into the valve hand tight when draining to keep WH door and my feet from getting soaked when draining the tank.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
BurbMan wrote:
I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:



With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.

Burbman that is quite an en-genius design. You may want to patent it. I like it.
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Old-Biscuit
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:



With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.



BurbMan.........

I LIKE it!

Simple yet effective
Like they say "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"

Mind if I 'appropriate' your Idea??


I firmly believe that the majority of issue with folks and the nylon plug is 'over tightening'
Plug & drain hole threads are 1/2" NPT ---Tapered / Self Sealing
Finger tight then just SNUG up---Done

Over-tighten and then HEX Head cracks/breaks off then one has to resort to other means of removal.....hot screw driver/sprinkler removal tool etc.
In mean time scale/crud build up.

Oh well...........
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:



With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
cmcdar wrote:
Lantley wrote:
I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.


The only threads you risk stripping are on a $3.00 Nylon plug. You can buy replacements for $6. per two pack on Amazon.

Much less "risk" then ruining the tank with crud build up.


I don't dispute your point. But crud build up doesn't happen instantly. My 2012 unit is working fine. I agree crud could one day be a factor, but than it may not? I do know the nylon plugs are a pain to deal with. We are all familiar with the pitfalls of the plugs

I used a valve since day 1 oK maybe day 2....:)
But I have not messed with it since. How many times would I have been messing around with a nylon plug?
Too Many! I'd been looking for that right tool or better way to make the nylon plug work....
I found the right tool. It's called a valve.
5 years later its still getting the job done with no aggravation factor.
You can keep looking for that right tool if you like, In the mean time I'll keep turning my valve
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cmcdar
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.


The only threads you risk stripping are on a $3.00 Nylon plug. You can buy replacements for $6. per two pack on Amazon.

Much less "risk" then ruining the tank with crud build up.
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