Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tip on the right tool
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Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

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Posted: 01/08/18 08:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.


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SidecarFlip

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Posted: 01/08/18 08:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Atwood's take a plastic / nylon plug, Suburban takes an anode rod. Mt refernce is to a suburban with the anode rod...

While on the subject, use a genuine Surburban magnesium anode, not the Camco aluminum one. The aluminum one does not provide adequate cathodic protection to the tank.

Atwood/Dometic don't need an anode rod.


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SidecarFlip

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Posted: 01/08/18 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:

Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.


All well and good on an Atwood / Dometic. Not good on a suburban. The tank will perforate after some usage.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/08/18 09:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

Lantley wrote:

Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.


All well and good on an Atwood / Dometic. Not good on a suburban. The tank will perforate after some usage.


Not really that good on Atwood.
Atwood drain hole is only 1/2" which makes flushing crud/scale out harder.
Valve restricts opening even more so.

And those brass drain *****...1/8" hole

OK for routine DRAINING.....but flushing crud/scale need to completely remove ANY plug/valve/pet-**** and POWER Flush


As for Suburban....OEM anode is Magnesium BUT Suburban offers optional Aluminum which will work and not react with microbes that can cause that sulfur smell like the Magnesium can.


Either on....

Clean up drain hole threads using a pipe nipple (Or tap if you have one)
Atwood 1/2" NPT Brass
Suburban 3/4" NPT Steel


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Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

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Posted: 01/09/18 05:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.

cmcdar

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 01/09/18 06:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:

I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.


The only threads you risk stripping are on a $3.00 Nylon plug. You can buy replacements for $6. per two pack on Amazon.

Much less "risk" then ruining the tank with crud build up.


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Lantley

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Posted: 01/09/18 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cmcdar wrote:

Lantley wrote:

I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.


The only threads you risk stripping are on a $3.00 Nylon plug. You can buy replacements for $6. per two pack on Amazon.

Much less "risk" then ruining the tank with crud build up.


I don't dispute your point. But crud build up doesn't happen instantly. My 2012 unit is working fine. I agree crud could one day be a factor, but than it may not? I do know the nylon plugs are a pain to deal with. We are all familiar with the pitfalls of the plugs

I used a valve since day 1 oK maybe day 2....[emoticon]
But I have not messed with it since. How many times would I have been messing around with a nylon plug?
Too Many! I'd been looking for that right tool or better way to make the nylon plug work....
I found the right tool. It's called a valve.
5 years later its still getting the job done with no aggravation factor.
You can keep looking for that right tool if you like, In the mean time I'll keep turning my valve

BurbMan

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Posted: 01/09/18 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:

[image]

With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/09/18 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BurbMan wrote:

I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:

[image]

With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.



BurbMan.........

I LIKE it!

Simple yet effective
Like they say "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"

Mind if I 'appropriate' your Idea??


I firmly believe that the majority of issue with folks and the nylon plug is 'over tightening'
Plug & drain hole threads are 1/2" NPT ---Tapered / Self Sealing
Finger tight then just SNUG up---Done

Over-tighten and then HEX Head cracks/breaks off then one has to resort to other means of removal.....hot screw driver/sprinkler removal tool etc.
In mean time scale/crud build up.

Oh well...........

Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

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Posted: 01/09/18 09:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BurbMan wrote:

I had the same issue, the downward angle of the nylon plug, combined with the size of the hex, made it hard to get a socket on. Using a drill bit that matched the diameter of a coat hanger, I drilled shallow holes in opposite sides of the hex on the nylon plug and bent a piece of the coat hanger to form a D-ring. Insert the ends into the holes and crimp it into shape with pliers. Tip: paint the wire so it doesn't rust.

I don't have an actual pic right now but here is the idea:

[image]

With a little teflon tape the plug doesn't need to be very tight to seal properly. Now I can install/remove the plug without tools.

Lantley, my first thought was to install a valve like you did, but there was NO room...this was my plan B.

Burbman that is quite an en-genius design. You may want to patent it. I like it.

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