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mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 01/09/18 11:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added a 1/2 x 2 inch long brass nipple and a 1/2 inch brass ball valve to an Atwood WH once. I needed to removed the valve's lever handle so I could screw the valve into place. I kept the handle in the silverware drawer where I would find it when I needed to drain the WH. I never had a problem draining the tank. I also kept a 1/2 pipe thd x 3/4 hose barb with hose attached to screw into the valve hand tight when draining to keep WH door and my feet from getting soaked when draining the tank.

BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 01/10/18 09:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old Biscuit, by all means use my idea! I'll snap a pic of the actual piece in a day or two when the snow drift out by the TT melts down a little....

I agree on overtightening and that's part of the problem with using a socket. The hex on that plastic piece is like 15/16" if I recall, and with that size socket it's sooo easy to overtorque that plastic plug.

Drill the holes on the sides like 1/8" deep or thereabouts...not too deep where you compromise the plug, but deep enough where the wire isn't falling out.


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ependydad

Here and there

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Posted: 01/10/18 10:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was reading on another forum that if you take a couple wraps of a paper towel, you can "wedge" The end of the plug into a socket. Then you can make sure everything is nice and straight and get it cleanly started by holding onto the socket vs. the small end of the plug itself.


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scottykrug

Aurora, CO

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Posted: 01/21/18 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Somewhat related..... I found that a cheapo 3/4” stainless bristle brush (couple of dollars at any hardware store) (used for prepping copper pipe solder joints) worked for removing any gunk from the threads on the water tank. I cut off the plastic handle and inserted what was left in my cordless drill. Run the brush back and forth a few seconds and the threads are shiny. Just make sure to rinse the tank to remove any of that gunk or any of the bristles came loose.


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BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 01/28/18 07:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As promised, here are a few pics...looking again, I didn't use coat hanger, I believe that's 1/8" rod that I bent. The rod is not glued in the holes so the D-ring can pivot as needed.

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sneakygroundbuzzard

st cloud mn

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Posted: 01/28/18 10:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

i was an auto tech for 25 years. over the years i had to try and start many nuts and bolts in areas that were very hard to reach,and one could really only get the nut/bolt in the area with the aid of a socket and or an extension.

what i learned to do to keep the nut/bolt from falling off of the socket while trying to line it up properly was to take a piece of elec tape(sticky side to the socket) over the socket and then place the nut/bolt in the socket.

this would hold it secure enough that it wouldnt fall out while trying to line it up with where it needed to be.

with the sticky side of the tape in the socket,prevented the tape from staying on the nut/bolt.

other techs would fill the socket full of wheel bearing grease,but i found that to be to messy and i hate slippery dirty tools.

just a thought,it may work for this application also.

nightshift

Vancouver, BC

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Posted: 01/28/18 11:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lar114 wrote:

I got rid of the nylon plugs, they would be hard to get stated after I had one break off then had to cut it out in pieces with a hack saw blade.
Went to Home Depot and bought a brass plug. It starts a lot easier now with 17mm socket with a 6 inch exstention and 3/8 ratchet. Only need to snug it so it doesn't leak, also use Teflon tape. No problems.


Lar, that just happened to me 3 months ago while winterizing. I was wondering how to remove the remnants of the plug without damaging the threads. So, you had no problem with the hacksaw technique and the brass replacement went in smoothly?

BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 01/29/18 06:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You guys are missing the point....I added the D ring NOT to get the plug started but so I could tighten it without needing any tools. One of the reasons these nylon plugs break so easily is because it's too easy to over-torque them with a 1-1/8" socket and extension.

A little teflon tape on the threads and finger tight is all you need for this plug. The reason it's nylon to start with is to avoid any kind of galvanic reaction with the tank so the plug doesn't corrode in the hole...

jsteih

Michigan

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Posted: 02/06/18 12:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Epoxy a rare earth magnet down inside the socket. Then you can start it with the socket and extension, and finish with a ratchet.


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