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cmcdar

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 01/09/18 06:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A Brake guy I use to work with used a 12v battery and a set of jumper cables.

He zapped it and the rust just flew off.


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soren

Lancaster County PA

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Posted: 01/09/18 07:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For decades, I used the same shop for inspections, and heavy repairs that I didn't DIY. What I didn't pay much attention to was that the shop policy was to apply a light coat of anti-seize on the hub contact points, every time a wheel was removed. I moved away, and within a year I'm having to sledge wheels off the car and truck. Most shops and DIYers couldn't be bothered to do it, but here in salt country, it's the difference between wheels that rot tight to the hub, or falls toward you, as you buzz the lugnuts off.

I can't find the video, but I did see a redneck rotor puller that used a small bottle jack, and a logging chain to pop rotors right off. You make a small loop of chain hooked to the edges of the rotors at 3 and 9 o'clock, by sticking the tips of the chain hooks into the rotor cooling veins. Then the jack is stuck between the chain and rotor, with the piston toward the axle nut, and it pushes the chain tight. Pops the rotor right off. I won't swear that it's a safe or good idea, but it works.

Lynnmor

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Posted: 01/09/18 07:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:



I bought a Harbor Freight 12 ton hydraulic puller (70 bucks at HF). It's jaws fit over any disc (fit my F350 discs with room to spare) and you set it up (3 jaws on the disc), align the body with the center of the hub, run it in tight, apply a squirt of penetrant to the hub and 3 strokes of the hydraulic cylinder and the disc pops right off, easy as pie. Great tool and saves a lot of grief. It actually has enough hydraulic force to break a disc off the hub if you want to do that but with me, they popped right off. Sure made a miserable job a cake walk.



I would think that you should only do it this way if you are installing new rotors. Is that correct?





soren

Lancaster County PA

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Posted: 01/09/18 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:



I bought a Harbor Freight 12 ton hydraulic puller (70 bucks at HF). It's jaws fit over any disc (fit my F350 discs with room to spare) and you set it up (3 jaws on the disc), align the body with the center of the hub, run it in tight, apply a squirt of penetrant to the hub and 3 strokes of the hydraulic cylinder and the disc pops right off, easy as pie. Great tool and saves a lot of grief. It actually has enough hydraulic force to break a disc off the hub if you want to do that but with me, they popped right off. Sure made a miserable job a cake walk.



I would think that you should only do it this way if you are installing new rotors. Is that correct?


Not really. You're hooking the chain end hook tips into the void in the edge of the vented rotor. Shouldn't be any damage to the braking surfaces.

BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 01/09/18 11:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use this method of bolts through the caliper bracket to force the rotor off:

YouTube Video


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SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

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Posted: 01/11/18 06:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BurbMan wrote:

I use this method of bolts through the caliper bracket to force the rotor off:

YouTube Video


Bolts through the caliper mounting boss works too but they deem the rotor unuseable again. The deface the swept braking surface so they6 cannot be resurfaced (if you want to). The puller don't damage the rotor in any way (unless it breaks in two of course). Other issue with using the caliper mounting boss is you have to buy longer bolts that are useless for anything else after you push the rotor off. You have to buy a fine thread alloy bolt (2) that then become a paperweight.

The puller works on other stuff besides the rotors (and brake drums). It works on harmonic balancers, timing gears and anything that requires pulling that is an interference fit and not just automotive. I used it the other day to pull a Lovejoy coupling half from a 10 horse electric motor that was seized on the shaft.

Works better than a conventional puller because the pressure point don't rotate, it remains stationary.


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westend

Shorewood, MN

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Posted: 01/11/18 07:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Always nice to have a tool that works!!
I have a punch of pullers. My best effort was combining a piece of threaded rod, large washers, exhaust pieces, and a nut to use as a hub puller and insertion tool for my BMW rear wheels. BMW wanted > $900 for the two tools. My cost was around $10.

BTW, I tried the never-seize on my truck hubs but without luck. Maybe I need to switch brands or apply it differently. As it is, a few seconds with a propane torch and they typically loosen up easily.


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Edd505

Elephant Butte, NM

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Posted: 01/11/18 09:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SDcampowneroperator wrote:

disc brake caliper bolts do seem to lock tight up regardless of torque. Long wrenches, hyd. Jacks big hammers are often needed to break them loose.

Never Seeze on the threads is the next mechanics dream come true.


Best answer, brake bolts, lug nuts, etc.


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