Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: 2018 View/Navion Dead Chassis Battery
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 > 2018 View/Navion Dead Chassis Battery

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Olddud

Lost in Kansas

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Posted: 01/16/18 02:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

neschultz wrote:

They used to have a disconnect for the chassis battery just to the right of the accelerator pedal. Did they stop putting them on or move it?


There is one on my 2017 (2016) View.

AND, I had a BUNCH of problems with mine that nearly had me driving it off a cliff, but managed to get some done by the dealer and many of the others (some big) done by me. Now, it is just fine.

As far as current draw off the starting battery, I certainly don't have 5 amps draw with mine, as my little battery minder charger is keeping it at about 13.1 volts.

PaisleyDale

Oregon

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Posted: 01/17/18 12:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Steve, I cannot help with why your battery goes dead so soon, but you might get some good information from the Navion/View group on Yahoo, unless you are a member already.

Good luck with your pursuits.


2014 Winnebago View Profile 24v
2016 Honda Pilot EXL AWD
1994 Ford F150 Ext Cab 4X4 5.0L

Flarpswitch

Oregon

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Posted: 01/29/18 11:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found the problem and for now it is ok. I recall from previous trouble shooting that taking random readings won't be accurate. First, I discovered that my best VOM had an internal resistance that was too high and the Sprinter saw it as a bad battery cable. I did find another meter that had a 1 Ohm internal resistance on the 10 Amp range so I used it for fault finding. I reconnected all the connections to the positive battery bus and placed the meter in series with the negative ground cable. After turning off and removing the key, I monitored the draw on the battery as different components go to sleep. I made sure doors were closed and lights were off. The draw was not the 5 to 6 Amps that I read previously, but were more like 3 to 4 Amps, still too high. By moving the meter to each of the connections on the positive side, I found that the excessive draw was coming from the driver's seat area where a fuse block is, as I previously tested. Under the seat in addition to the Sprinter wiring there was stuff added by Winnebago. A mass of yellow and white wires. I found a 'Shiner' that looked like it could be trouble. I clean up things a bit and the trouble went away. I could have read the number codes on the wires to determine the source of the trouble, but I was running out of steam and I was just happy to fix the problem. After putting it all together, I ran another test allowing time for the Sprinter to go to sleep. The current draw went down into the milliamp range. I assume that is normal to keep alive essential stuff.

This is a new RV. I should not have to be doing this, but when it goes to the shop I get, "Found OK. Within design specifications."

Ever ask yourself, "Is it just me or do other people have this sort of luck?" I got my answer this afternoon when a friend called me to tell me about his fifth-wheel that he took in to have the black holding tank sensors replaced. The read out was never right because the sensors in the tank would foul and never got clean despite having an internal track spray. The fix would be to replace with a new type that is resistant to fouling. He brought the RV home after repairs were completed and looked at the repair invoice more closely to find that the jacks on the rear were removed and replaced. That made no sense as the holding tank was more to the middle. So, he goes to the repair shop to ask about it. After quizzing the repair tech my friend finds out that the sensors on the fresh water tank were replaced. The repair ticket clearly states that it is the black water holding tank that was to be repaired. It is a good thing those guys are not running a hospital.


Steve

TreeSeeker

San Diego

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Posted: 02/03/18 10:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Electronic issues are a bear to find and fix.

I do caution people about disconnecting the engine battery when not in use. If you do this, the vehicle's computer will have to be reinitialized before you can pass a smog test. This requires driving it some unknown distance (I did 50 miles) on both city streets and freeways.

I found out this the hard way which also required two visits to the DMV and late fees because I couldn’t get it retested before the registration expired.

luvlabs

Las Cruces, NM

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Posted: 02/07/18 11:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Stop worrying about parasitic draws and do one of two things - either pull the battery ground if you are going to be parked for more than a couple of days (it's right above the accelerator pedal) or install a Tric-L-Charge device. The Tric-L-Charge, in conjunction with your house batteries and charger (solar or conventional) will keep your chassis battery at full charge.

You should convince your dealer to replace the original battery as it probably below specs. Mercedes uses an AGM battery for the chassis battery and while pretty bulletproof, it can be damaged. You can find them locally if you prefer to change it yourself.


2017 Winnebago Navion 24V
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 36GH (sold)
2012 Tiffin Allegro 32CA (traded)
2012 Honda Fit

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