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Changing from Converter to Inverter

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Questions I have when changing from a Converter to a Inverter.

With an Inverter When not plugged into shore power will all outlets and appliances work automatically as 110 off of the batteries?

Will the Inverter detect the power source and make the switch automatically?

Why don't RV's come with Inverter's instead of Converters? Is it simply because the battery banks are not large enough to handle the load?
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.
21 REPLIES 21

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
And a hybrid inverter/charger is a sweet thing to use.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
sch911 wrote:
Inverter = Makes 120 AC (Shore Power) from 12V DC (Batteries). $$ Usually not wired into the shore power panel, only used for a couple of outlets.

Inverter/Charger = Makes 120 AC (Shore Power) from 12V DC (Batteries), AND charges the batteries. Most common in Class A MH'S $$$ Usually wired into the sub panel and powers most outlets with switch over functions included.

But with a built in transfer switch AND an input for a generator they are MUCH MORE CONVENIENT !

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
The specific inverter I have is a Magnum 3012 hybrid that is able to "blend" power from shore and battery bank. It has a good interface to allow custom charging profiles. It has temperature compensated charging with a sensor on the battery bank.

The load support feature allows me to have a fully functional electrical system when plugged in to only a 15 amp shore power. It allows me to "limit" my draw to the maximum safe continuous demand of 12 amps (80% of the rated power)

As someone mentioned the unit you referenced is not an inverter/charger. However, Go-Power is a good brand. The inverter charger from aims has a rather poor reputation, and should be considered a "throw away".

1L243 wrote:
what kind of inverters are you using that would be so expensive. Just doing a quick search I cam up with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015353XU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creat...

I was thinking that you actually replaced the converter charger and replaced it with the inverter charger? You supposed to run both?

My dream system would be 6 batteries with solar.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Tom_M wrote:
The Go Power GP-SW3000-12 in the link does not have a charger. You need an inverter/charger such as this:

AIMS Power 3000 Watt 12V Pure Sine Inverter/Charger

Good price, but not necessarily good reviews on YouTube.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
1L243 wrote:
With an Inverter When not plugged into shore power will all outlets and appliances work automatically as 110 off of the batteries?

Anyone seriously considering an inverter should consider replacing their convert with and inverter/charge that includes and automatic transfer switch like these units from Samlex.

I like these units because they have the transfer switch builtin and all the wiring is done at one location.

1L243 wrote:
Will the Inverter detect the power source and make the switch automatically?

Some do (as above) but not all of them.

1L243 wrote:
Why don't RV's come with Inverter's instead of Converters? Is it simply because the battery banks are not large enough to handle the load?

Inverters, especially pure sine wave inverters, cost more, period. To be useful they need a bigger battery bank. The absolute minimum I would consider is two 6V golf cart batteries. 4 would be better.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
1L243 wrote:
what kind of inverters are you using that would be so expensive. Just doing a quick search I cam up with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015353XU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creat...

I was thinking that you actually replaced the converter charger and replaced it with the inverter charger? You supposed to run both?

My dream system would be 6 batteries with solar.


Ok it's five time as much instead of ten
Go power is ok brand, i have their 300w
But that is an inverter only
No charging
that is useless for what you want to do
Those plugs on the front, are not going to allow you full power use for the whole RV
You need an inverter that is hard wired, not plug in outlet's
If you expect to put it in line, for the whole RV
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great stuff thanks everybody I am more informed than I was yesterday.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Incwers come in 2x2xmany
First two is MSW or TSW(PSW) go with the latter please your electronics will thank you.
The second two is Inline or Stand alone and the topic of this post
The main is different power ratings from a low of around 50 watts to a high of 2 or 4 thousand watts. You pick the size you need. 2000 and 3000 seem to be the most favcored if you plan on feeding the microwave 300-600 if only feeding TV's

A Stand alone Invewrter makes 120 volt out of 12 volt and has no way of sensing 120 volt..

An inline.. These come in a 2.1 and 2.2.. They have 120 volt in (And out) and 12 volt in/(out) (The out is optional) generally the small ones some RV makers put in for TV only do not have 12 volt out.

The 1000 watt PLUS do..

For years I had a Xantrex Prosine 2.0 (2000 watt) when power failed the TV's and Computers did not even blink as the inverter kicked in that fast.

NOTE: IF you get this type of inverter DO NOT discard your converter.. Disconnect it or turn it off (and tape the breaker) or unplug it if you wish (I wished not, After all Damon gave me a Progressive Dynamics 9180+Wizard and a better converter I've yet to find so I disabled the charger on the Prosine, except for when my 9180 came unpluged then I'd figure it out ... usually about 3am.. flip the Prosine switch and go back to bed, Plug back in in daylight.

Why keep the converter... back up of course. As I recently told somoeone "A back up plan is a good thing".
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

sch911
Explorer
Explorer
Inverter = Makes 120 AC (Shore Power) from 12V DC (Batteries). $$ Usually not wired into the shore power panel, only used for a couple of outlets.

Inverter/Charger = Makes 120 AC (Shore Power) from 12V DC (Batteries), AND charges the batteries. Most common in Class A MH'S $$$ Usually wired into the sub panel and powers most outlets with switch over functions included.

Converter = Makes 12V DC (Charges Batteries/Powers 12V items) from 120V AC. $ Standard fare for most RV's
OEM Auto Engineer- Embedded Software Team
09 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 41SKQ Cummins ISL
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Toad

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
That link takes you to a unit which is an inverter ONLY. You would need to keep your converter in place to charge the batteries and use the inverter to draw down the batteries and run the 120V devices you wire the inverter to. That, of course, is what you have to figure out. Where are you going to insert this inverter. The CONVERTER deals with 12V circuits only. Battery charging and 12V lighting circuits. The inverter deals with power from the battery bank and 120V circuits only.
You would not be able to simply take out your converter and install an inverter even if you bought the correct inverter that also has a charger. Do a new search for Inverter/Charger and the price really jumps.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

jerseyjim
Explorer
Explorer
My motorhome came with BOTH a CONverter and an INverter. A "rule of thumb" that I've heard, is that a CONverter will get "weak" as time goes on...but an INverter will simply fail.

My CONverter became "weak" after about 13 years. Magnatek. Bought a Parallax 4455, easy replacement. And...I was amazed at the difference in technology from 2001 to now. The old one was HUGE and weighed a ton. The new one....so light I was able to secure it to it's shelf with a strip of velcro. So far, so good.

My INverter failed this past fall. No power to the outlets it was connected to...and no "entertainment" center...TV. IMO, the cost of replacement for my old(er) motorhome was prohibitive...and anyway, I never used it. So the INverter was removed (bypassed.). Everything on that circuit works fine...but I must be careful not to put anything like a space heater on that circuit. Something to do with the wire gauge. But that's OK....not even an inconvenience.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
The Go Power GP-SW3000-12 in the link does not have a charger. You need an inverter/charger such as this:

AIMS Power 3000 Watt 12V Pure Sine Inverter/Charger
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
what kind of inverters are you using that would be so expensive. Just doing a quick search I cam up with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015353XU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creat...

I was thinking that you actually replaced the converter charger and replaced it with the inverter charger? You supposed to run both?

My dream system would be 6 batteries with solar.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
time2roll was trying to say that for normal set-ups, to run a microwave you will want a 2000w inverter and four batteries to run it.

I am saying rules of thumb like that are not gospel; you just have to go with what you are actually doing.

EDIT--You also have the surge spec on the inverter at twice the normal rating. Do you wire gauge for the surge rating? One of my inverters seems to say that on that, the ANL fuse is slow enough that it is in fact the surge holding mechanism, so it won't blow during the surge but will if surge is sustained. Not sure that is really what it means, sort of Delphic on that.

I still think if your max load will be drawing say 150 amps, there is no need to wire for fatter than that. Nobody else is going to show up and try to use your inverter for a higher load. If he does, the ANL for your size wiring should blow.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.