New RVer, does heater need both gas and electric?

[Ryderguy69]

Hello all, not only am I new to this forum but I am a new RV owner. Just purchased a 2007 eclipse attitude 26fsak.

I have a few general questions on the utilities. How do the all work in conjunction with each other? What runs on what? What will full hookup run? Does the heater need propain or just electrical?

Thanks in advance for the help

[2012Coleman]

Sounds like the OP has a water heater powered by both electric and gas in his new to him TT. If you need hot water really fast, then turn both on, but usually you just let it run on electric - if your at a site with electricity - your already paying for the electricity so just use electric only. Make sure you fill it up the tank first by connecting to a water source and turning it on.

Since you have a disconnect switch, then just use that when storing, but uif your storing at a storage facility, then remove the battery so it won't grow legs and walk off. Take it out anyway and buy a battery tender or smart charger - put it on your bench and let it it maintain it's charge.

If you plug in your TT and the converter keeps charging the battery, you may cook it if your not careful.

[Ryderguy69]

malikto wrote:
On my next rig, I am probably going to have two battery switches. One completely disconnects the battery. The other disconnects all loads after the fridge, converters and charge controllers. That way, when I store my rig, it can still charge, but all parasitic loads from stuff are disconnected, with the only load being the refrigerator.

why would you want to leave the refrigerator load? if you were storing the rig why would you want the fridge to run?

[malikto]

On my next rig, I am probably going to have two battery switches. One completely disconnects the battery. The other disconnects all loads after the fridge, converters and charge controllers. That way, when I store my rig, it can still charge, but all parasitic loads from stuff are disconnected, with the only load being the refrigerator.

[Ryderguy69]

thank you all!

[DrewE]

IAMICHABOD wrote:

Ryderguy69 wrote:
So just to be clear, do not disconnect the batteries when connect to power or the generator is on?

The only time I would disconnect is when I am storing?

Thanks

Yes That is right.

x2, this is the correct way to do things.

Depending on how the rig is wired, it's possible that the batteries may change when the switch is in the disconnect state but you have 120V power to the converter. Usually, if that is the case, the rest of the 12V system will be dead. (It simply means that the converter is wired in at the battery side of the disconnect rather than the house circuit side.) More common I believe is for the batteries to not charge but the house circuits have 12V power.

In either case, one leaves the batteries connected except for (relatively long-term) storage when not plugged in...or perhaps when doing repair work of some sort on 12V systems.

[IAMICHABOD]

Ryderguy69 wrote:
So just to be clear, do not disconnect the batteries when connect to power or the generator is on?

The only time I would disconnect is when I am storing?

Thanks

Yes That is right.

[Ryderguy69]

So just to be clear, do not disconnect the batteries when connect to power or the generator is on?

The only time I would disconnect is when I am storing?

Thanks

[Bird_Freak]

Ryderguy69 wrote:
Thank you all for the responses. I think I have a beter understanding of how the facilities work now. I will check out. The links posted here, and try and track down an owner's manual.

Next question. By the batteries is a battery shut of switch. I was told to turn the switch to off when pluggenged into street or have the generator on. Is this correct? Does this still charge the batteries?

Thanks

No, Do not turn that switch off unless you are putting camper in storage. The converter charges your battery when plugged into shore power.

[Ryderguy69]

Thank you all for the responses. I think I have a beter understanding of how the facilities work now. I will check out. The links posted here, and try and track down an owner's manual.

Next question. By the batteries is a battery shut of switch. I was told to turn the switch to off when pluggenged into street or have the generator on. Is this correct? Does this still charge the batteries?

Thanks

[mowermech]

Is your RV new or used? Either way, there should be a big package of Owners Manuals in it. A new unit will definitely have it, a used might. There will be a book or pamphlet for each appliance in the coach, and a generic RV Owners Manual. I strongly recommend that you and yours sit down and read all the instructions.
If there is no such package in your RV, the manuals for the appliances are available online from the manufacturer of each unit, often for free download. They will be a big help in operating and troubleshooting your appliances.
enjoy your new RV.
and remember; "When all else fails, read the instructions!"

[turbojimmy]

Here's one of the links suggested by bikeandan:

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

It's already been covered, but nearly everything operates on 12V using the battery or batteries in the trailer. You'll learn over time how much life you can get out of them depending on what you use and how much you use it. As mentioned, the furnace is the biggest 12V draw you've got.

When plugged into "shore power" a converter (converts 110V to 12V) recharges the battery. It's usually plugged into a regular residential-type outlet in the trailer. All the rest of your outlets will work when plugged in as well, and your air conditioning.

Fridges typically have a 110V and propane option but even on propane they need 12V to work. Some have a 12V option but I've found that not only does it draw a lot of power, it doesn't work nearly as well as the propane or 110 options.

[valhalla360]

If you are talking about the propane furnace, it needs Propane and 12V DC electrical. The electric runs the blower fan, the computer board and igniter.

Some RV's will have either a heat pump system or simple electric heating coils in the air conditioner. Those will run on 120V AC and you will need to be hooked up to shore power (or have a generator).

Alternatively, you may have a small fireplace or wall mounted electric heater which again will run on 120V AC.

The fridge can typically run on propane (with 12V DC for the controls) or on 120V AC electric. Some will alo run on 12V DC but then you need a big battery bank and a way to charge it.

Lights and water pump are typically 12V DC.

Jacks & slideouts are 12V DC.

Everything running thru the household style outlets are 120V AC.

[bikendan]

Suggest you go to some websites that discuss the two separate RV electrical systems and read through them.
12v DC and 110v AC are the two systems.

The 12 Volt Side of Life is one of them.

As was said, the furnace uses propane to produce heat and 12v battery power to ignite the propane. the furnace is the biggest eater of 12v battery power.

There is no electric heat, unless your a/c has heat pump/strip, which would require shore power or generator to run.

[nineoaks2004]

Furnace uses LP. and needs 12 V DC to run the fan. , water pump, stove is LP., Reefer is either LP or 110v and sometimes also 12v DC.Your AC uses 110VAC Full hookup will supply 110V AC to wall receptacles etc.
to the AC items such as TV. Reefer AC If you look in the control panel in the unit fuses are 12V DC and breakers are 110V AC. The convertor charges the House (RV battery) which gives you the power to run the 12 volt items I hope this helps
answer your questions