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More equalization confusion

bobkatmsu
Explorer
Explorer
Using a hydrometer, I tested my InterState Deep Cycle batteries. They measured 1.210. Meaning that they need to be charged. The question is how? I have a Magnum Energy Remote that will charge/equalize the batteries. Everything I have read says you need to be hooked up to 50 amp service or using your generator. I have read, several places that you run the charger for 4 hours, check your readings and then possibly run the charger for another 4 hours. I just called Inter State to make sure my batteries were the type that could be charged. They said they were, but on talking to them they advised that 50 amp was too much, that I should use a 30 amp plug and and run the charge 6-8 hours. Now I'm totally confused.
2010 Newmar Dutch Star DP
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
14 REPLIES 14

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The Magnum should charge automatically though we speak of "3 stage" converters and chargers there are really 4.. I will cover

BULK (Automatic) this is a rapid recharge of a battery that has been rund own some The idea is to bring it up to around 90% State of charge QUICKLY. assuming batteries are at 50% soc and your converter's output is about 1/3, in amps, the 20 hour Amp Hour capacity of the battery. this stage should take about 2 hours More battery, or less charger, Extend the time.

Absorption: This is a much lower current, as little as a few percent, Takes about 3-4 hours. IN this stage the batteries shoudl reach 100%, this stage too is automatic

The final automatic stage is FLOAT, roughly 13.6 volts, lasts forever, in this stage the batteries are full, we are just keeping them that way and the converter is providing all the operating needs of the RV.

The above stages are automatick the converter switches from one to another with out human assistance (some can be "Forced") but you need do nothing to switch as needed between modes save feed it power and as someone up-tread said 15 amps (Standard house outlet) via the proper adapter(s) will do the job.. I( spent about 2 months at a repair shop recently eating 15 amps just to the converter.

The 4th Mode is Equalizatin and that one, rarly needed is usually invoked MANUALLY, that is the only one you must request.

The mode is only needed when the cells measure differently on your hydrometer. IT is a controlled OVERCHARGE designed to bring ALL the cells up to 100% SOC or better, overcharging boils off some of the water that makes up the water/acid mix on cells that do not need all that much charge, but hopefully it will bring them all up to 100%, that is Equalize them.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

ILVMYGT
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a battery disconnect switch that should turn off power to most of the 12 electrical equipment in the coach. Also it if you are charging both house and chassis batteries you should either consider disconnecting the charge circuit to the chassis battery or the chassis disconnect switch so you don't over voltage the Engine ECM.
2000 Country Coach Magna
CAT 385HP Allison 6sp
1998 Saturn SW2

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

If you do not disconnect the rv from the charging circuit, do not exceed 15.4 volts when attempting to equalize.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bobkatmsu
Explorer
Explorer
Ok. Makes sense. Thanks.
2010 Newmar Dutch Star DP
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
bobkatmsu wrote:
GordonThree wrote:

Also you may want to pull the DC fuse for your fridge and any other non automotive electronics.

Will using the circuit breaker accomplish the same thing as removing fuses?


Circuit breaker is for the AC power to the fridge. If you have a residential fridge, disregard. If it's an RV fridge it will have a DC fuse somewhere.

The theory is to protect the fridge control board from high voltage.

An equalize charge is 15 or 16 volts, the idea is to actually heat the batteries up to reverse minor sulphate damage in the cells and bring them all to the same specific gravity.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Oh, make sure your water is topped up on all cells before starting the equalize.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

bobkatmsu
Explorer
Explorer
GordonThree wrote:
If you have the remote you can enter a computer controlled high voltage equalizing charge. It's a restricted 4th stage of the Magnum charging profile. Double check you have the correct profile programmed for your battery type.

Read your instructions how to enter this mode, it's hidden for good reason. Read and understand the warnings in the manual. A true equalizing charge will boil your batteries quite a bit. Leave the battery box open, make sure you have good airflow to vent the hydrogen gas.

Also you may want to pull the DC fuse for your fridge and any other non automotive electronics.

Will using the circuit breaker accomplish the same thing as removing fuses?
2010 Newmar Dutch Star DP
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
bobkatmsu wrote:
Seeings as I have no idea what a temperature compensated charging sensor is, I have no idea.


Smallish plastic thing says Magnum Energy on it. Will be bolted to one of your batteries. Pictures are on Google.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

bobkatmsu
Explorer
Explorer
Seeings as I have no idea what a temperature compensated charging sensor is, I have no idea.
2010 Newmar Dutch Star DP
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
If you have the remote you can enter a computer controlled high voltage equalizing charge. It's a restricted 4th stage of the Magnum charging profile. Double check you have the correct profile programmed for your battery type.

Read your instructions how to enter this mode, it's hidden for good reason. Read and understand the warnings in the manual. A true equalizing charge will boil your batteries quite a bit. Leave the battery box open, make sure you have good airflow to vent the hydrogen gas.

Also you may want to pull the DC fuse for your fridge and any other non automotive electronics.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Ok,

You have a 450 amp-hour battery bank @ 12 volts made from 4 golf cart batteries wired in series/parallel?

Program the Magnum remote to do bulk charging at 14.8 volts.

The maximum the Magnum can do is 127 amps @ 12 volts. That works out to about 64 amps per battery.

You can limit the Magnum remote by deliberately reducing the input Amperage. Look under the FAVS button and rotate the dial until input amps is displayed.

Do you have the temperature compensated charging sensor installed?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bobkatmsu
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
How many batteries and how many amp-hours are they at 12 volts?

115 amps @ 75 minutes
225 Ah @ 20 HRS
4 batteries
2010 Newmar Dutch Star DP
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
How many batteries and how many amp-hours are they at 12 volts?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
The charger in the Magnum won't use more than about 15 amps no matter where it is plugged in. I have often used mine plugged into a standard 15 amp shore power outlet.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.