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Looking for solar suggestions

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
I full timed off and on(mostly on) for over 20 years. Retired in a house and still love traveling and camping. I bought a small v nosed cargo trailer that I will be boon docking in some nights to save hotel money.I am interested in installing solar and battery(no inverter) to run an led light and a roof vent fan, maybe a 12volt charging outlet for cell phone. I was slogging through threads that had more to do with alternators, large battery banks, tying into main power. My needs are simple, I want the option of bedding down for the night with my dogs and a good book when stopping for night or dry camping. Suggestions welcome. Experience Very welcome! Thank you in advance.
30 REPLIES 30

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
I had a nice rack welded on with some 1 1/2" angle iron.It's a V nose so mounting on tongue wouldn't work but a good thought. He charged me $30, I was embarrassed and asked him to at least take $40. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures I will.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
deadticket8 wrote:
I added a Maxair fan and insulated the ceiling with 1" foam board. That Maxair pulls some air. Now in process of adding vents low to pull air across floor. Also am adding an inverter and a small frig. I tell you what, that panel is awesome! Charges battery on overcast days, after sunset and this is a flat setup. I need to find a welder to set up a proper battery rack, I'd like to add another to see what that panel will do! I will add pictures soon.I recommend solar Blvd as it was recommended to me here!
Lacking a welder, buy a metal tool box and install it on the tongue. It will hold your batteries and most offer lockability. Torklift Inc. makes a very nice battery box but are not cheap.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
I added a Maxair fan and insulated the ceiling with 1" foam board. That Maxair pulls some air. Now in process of adding vents low to pull air across floor. Also am adding an inverter and a small frig. I tell you what, that panel is awesome! Charges battery on overcast days, and this is a flat setup. I need to find a welder to set up a proper battery rack, I'd like to add another to see what that panel will do! I will add pictures soon.I recommend solar Blvd as it was recommended to me here!
Note: Looks like solar blvd closed their doors. They treated me well.

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
Hi! New puppy and other so forth, will take my next trip soon and will try to post pictures. If computers were dangerous, I would be a hazard! Looking for suggestions on a invertor. Will use it to charge laptop. Do I need a fancy one or will a small one from auto zone or o'reillys do?

Traveler7
Explorer
Explorer
deadticket8 wrote:
So, I did my first trip from NH to Idaho then back. I had a bad factory connection which I butt spliced and all good. I had mostly sunny or partly cloudy days and traveled daily. I never ran battery into yellow zone except once before fixing connection.( My Morningstar controller has no digital readout, I have green yellow red.)After the fix battery went to green in about 1 hour of early morning sun. While traveling I used a fan in daytime when stopped and at night 1 led interior light, also charged phone and dvd player, blue tooth head phones from system. I plan on adding some exterior lights and a vent fan. Also I will be camping in more shaded spots in the north east. I will update.


Very cool! How about some pics on your set up?
"We are not defined by our limitations, we are defined by our potential"

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
So, I did my first trip from NH to Idaho then back. I had a bad factory connection which I butt spliced and all good. I had mostly sunny or partly cloudy days and traveled daily. I never ran battery into yellow zone except once before fixing connection.( My Morningstar controller has no digital readout, I have green yellow red.)After the fix battery went to green in about 1 hour of early morning sun. While traveling I used a fan in daytime when stopped and at night 1 led interior light, also charged phone and dvd player, blue tooth head phones from system. I plan on adding some exterior lights and a vent fan. Also I will be camping in more shaded spots in the north east. I will update.

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
For what it's worth, you sound like a minimalist, which would sort of describe us, too. We camp for weeks at a time with two group 31 batteries and a 120 watt portable suitcase panel. This tops up the battery every day (if it is not too cloudy).

We use it for lights, the fridge, the water heater, the furnace (sparingly), the pump, and an inverter to charge an iPhone. This is not a fancy solar unit -- just a Chinese imitation of a Renogy suitcase, with a controller. Easy to deploy, easy to hook up, easy to store.

A rooftop unit would be even easier, but we camp in the shade most of the time.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
This 180W panel? It says MC4 connectors. Solar Blvd and other places have "MC4 extension cable" that you run from panels to controller. You need a cable twice longer than the desired run, and cut it in half, so you'll get 2 leads, to connect to panel. That's a beauty of today's panels, most of them have standard MC4 connectors. No crimping.

deadticket8 wrote:
Am trying out my panel from Solar Blvd. before install. Getting 22.5 volts, 9.6 amps when angled at sun, 4.8 when flat. Bought connectors, unfortunately my crimper crimps flat

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
Am trying out my panel from Solar Blvd. before install. Getting 22.5 volts, 9.6 amps when angled at sun, 4.8 when flat. Bought connectors, unfortunately my crimper crimps flat which won't work. So I sent for a cable with a male and female connector. They are very nice people and seems like prices are lower when you order over phone. BTW I am a 62 year old woman so girls, don't be afraid to take on projects!

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
A couple of days ago I ordered a 180 watt panel and a 20 amp controller. It is 52" long and 24 " wide. My trailer should be 60" wide and it should leave room for the mounting behind vent.I will see about getting some aluminum tracks or angle to mount it on. For starters I will go with a group 31 battery 105 AH. Thank you for everyone's help. In March I will get my trailer and start the installation. As soon as I test everything out I will repost and report how its working. My cargo trailer has a window and roof vent so I bought a Fan Tastic endless breeze portable fan to move air.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
Here's a 200 watt portable for $249.99 from Amazon:

Dokio 200 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline foldable Solar Panel with Inverter Charge Controller
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think he meant the drainage slope, not really "tilting". About 3/4" or 1" per one foot of length, in this case.

Make 2 cardboard templates the size of a panel and see how it fits. Small panels can be bolted together if necessary, no need to leave any space in between.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
deadticket8 wrote:
I went to a site link and am looking at 2 80 watt panels solar synergy from Solar Blvd.Trailer on order but I think they will fit(comes with roof vent). Will take suggestion on tilting slightly back(1 1/2* like a drain pipe!)Although its going to depend where I park sometimes. Need more info on controller. There is a 6 amp controller by Morningstar. Panels say 5.36 amp short circuit current. Not really sure how that applies to controller. Hopefully customer service can answer questions. Also these will be wired in parallel, not sure if I splice the wires together or do they have special connection? I am learning.
Isc = 5.36 is the maximum expected amps at nominal temperature. I would not use a 6A controller for this panel. 2 in parallel would be 10.8A.

Panels vary as to how they are wired. Some have pigtails with the common MC4 connectors and some don't. If you cut or change pigtails then no warranty which may/may not be a concern for you.

Suggest you don't buy the panels until you can get on the roof and make sure they will fit.

Don't understand your tilting comment. Typically fixed panels are mounted parallel to the roof (front to back) and sloped 4 degrees for water drain. Tilting refers to aiming the panels at the sun and is around 30 degrees depending upon your latitude.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
steveksfc wrote:
Here is a 100 watt panel complete with 20 amp controller and cable https://www.amazon.com/Komaes-Monocrystalline-Bundle-Controller-Connectors/dp/B01AHHEOHU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1518499379&sr=8-14&keywords=100+watt+solar+panel+kit+complete $136.79

On this page I would want Polycrystalline kit, not $136 Mono, and a controller that something can be said about. Included #12 extension cable is better to replace with #10.

Consider this a $154 100W Poly panel without anything else.

Home Depot have 100W Poly on sale now for $97, free shipping. Usually they sell it for $120. Get a pair of them.