Alternator replacement on Cat C7, Freightliner XC chassis

[Ro646a]

I have a Winnebago Journey on a Freightliner XC chassis and Cat C7 with a rear radiator. The engine access is only possible from under the bed, and the the access is VERY restricted.
My alternator has not caused any problems in the 6000 miles I have owned and driven it, but it constantly overcharges. After startup, the voltage is typically 15.3 volts. On the road the voltage fluctuates between 14.6 and 15.1 volts. I'm thinking I should replace the alternator before I have a breakdown.
Can anyone offer any insight as to how difficult this job is going to be?

[wclogger1]

I have the same unit, it is way more accessible than the other bedroom areas that have the bed in the slide. Be happy that is what you have.
My alternator is a Leece Neville LN2824LC , it is an internal regulator. If you google that number you can get to the website for it and it has good pics and info. There is always a chance a p/o has changed it out as there are Delco units that fit also up you can start there.
The suggestions of checking output elsewhere are a good idea before you start pulling things apart.
Bob

[tropical36]

Ro646a wrote:
I have a Winnebago Journey on a Freightliner XC chassis and Cat C7 with a rear radiator. The engine access is only possible from under the bed, and the the access is VERY restricted.
My alternator has not caused any problems in the 6000 miles I have owned and driven it, but it constantly overcharges. After startup, the voltage is typically 15.3 volts. On the road the voltage fluctuates between 14.6 and 15.1 volts. I'm thinking I should replace the alternator before I have a breakdown.
Can anyone offer any insight as to how difficult this job is going to be?

Suggest you verify with a good digital voltmeter, before doing anything else and should be able to see the alternator's output and any fluctuations from the 12vdc outlet in the dash. Just make sure it's on the chassis batteries. I would use a 12vdc plug with a pigtail for connecting the meter and where I could monitor it for awhile.

[Bird_Freak]

Check your voltage at the battery. Your gauge may be off a little. If batt's are not boiling I bet you have no problem.

[FIRE_UP]

Ro646a wrote:
I have a Winnebago Journey on a Freightliner XC chassis and Cat C7 with a rear radiator. The engine access is only possible from under the bed, and the the access is VERY restricted.
My alternator has not caused any problems in the 6000 miles I have owned and driven it, but it constantly overcharges. After startup, the voltage is typically 15.3 volts. On the road the voltage fluctuates between 14.6 and 15.1 volts. I'm thinking I should replace the alternator before I have a breakdown.
Can anyone offer any insight as to how difficult this job is going to be?

Ro646a,
Unless folks have the same EXACT coach, with the same EXACT bedroom layout and, shrouding/plumbing/wiring/air cleaner intake tube routing/and a whole lot more as you and your coach does, it's almost impossible for many to describe how easy it would be to gain access or do anything on yours. All of these are different. We have a sort of sister ship to yours, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 and, without a doubt, getting to that alternator requires the removal of the entire bed assembly and both engine bay covers. Even then, you're still somewhat restricted.

You can't even SEE our alternator from the bottom. In fact, you can't seen just about anything with the type of shroud we have and the way things are plumbed/constructed/routed etc. Different (and even some of the SAME) model and years of Winnebagos will put the exhaust on one side, while in others, the exhaust is on the other. That will make one serious difference in access from a bottom approach.

I have a zillion pictures of that alternator area on ours because I just finished replacing the infamous fan bearing assembly, water pump, hoses and a few other odds and ends but, I cannot post them on RV.net due to the change in photobuckets practices. And using another photo host site hasn't worked either. Now, whether or not you actually have a external voltage regulator, based on what I've seen of mine, it's darn hard to tell. I'm about 99.999% sure that you have an internal one but again, your coach could be quite different than ours but, the same engine.

Scott

[Ivylog]

From underneath you should be able to see if you have an external voltage regulator which may be adjustable or just replace the regulator as your alternator is probably good.

[SidecarFlip]

Why shops charge what they do for service. As a rule, all DP's are a PITA to work on.

[Jim]

My Journey is a bit older, but I also have the closet slide and limited access under the bed. To improve access, you can remove the mattress and the wood cover fairly easily, than you can remove the entire bed frame for even more. Than as others have mentioned, you can access from below, and I'll add that I've read where people have removed the radiator for the best access.

When I replaced my surge tank here recently, I found that there is an air dam above the radiator that you can remove easily for the most part and get excellent access to that tank...and other portions of the engine. I'm pretty sure that now that I've done it, I could do that job in 2 hours if necessary. But probably won't need to for another 77,000 miles.

Here's a link to the surge tank job: Replace Surge Tank

[sailor_lou]

Different chassis (Spartan Mountain Master w/rear rad), but I was able to removed/reinstalled the alternator myself in a couple of hours. Although I have good access from above, I didn't need it (except to loosen the serpentine belt tensioner) and did all the work from below. It wasn't all that difficult, but may be different with the Freighliner chassis.

The alternator was most likely installed by the chassis manufacturer and not CAT so I do not know what you have, but mine has a Leece-Neville Model LBP2180 and the output voltage is adjustable. There is a small hole on the back near the cable terminals where you can change the output voltage using a small flat blade screwdriver. The only reservation I would have is that your output is fluctuating slightly (14.6-15.3 VDC) where mine is rock steady at 14.1 VDC. If you do remove it, I would also recommend you have it rebuilt by a good motor/alternator rewind shop rather than replacing it. A good shop will use better quality bearings, higher rated bridge diodes and regulator. They will also improved the conformal coating on the windings and it will probably be less expensive. Good luck.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy
CAT C7

[DSDP_Don]

I'm not familiar with the alternator on your Cat engine, but many use a voltage regulator. Some are internal and some are external. You need someone else to come on here who is familiar with Cat and can tell you if the regulator is accessible.

I believe "Trackig" meant that someone was under the coach, assisting in the routing of the engine belt while someone inside was installing it.

[Ro646a]

Bill,
Thank you for the quick response, but the only access to my engine is under the bed. My closet is in the slide in the driver side of the coach.
Engine access is REALLY bad.

[Trackrig]

Did it on a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion with a C7. It took two people, one on top in the closet and one from underneath to get the belt around the fan blades and around all of the pulleys correctly.

Take a white or silver marker and draw a diagram of where the belt goes around everything on the black fan shroud where it's easy to refer to from underneath.

You might look at changing your antifreeze overflow tank if it's still original. The plastics they used on them were real **** and almost of them start leaking from heat stress cracks. This will save you from taking everything out of the closet a second time and problems out on the road.

Bill