โMar-18-2018 04:42 PM
โMar-26-2018 12:59 AM
โMar-24-2018 02:23 PM
โMar-24-2018 06:15 AM
BarneyS wrote:
We did not have a problem with the electric plugs in our trailer getting warm but with all the cool weather we had down in Florida several years ago we needed a way to run our electric heater without going through the trailers electrical system. I put in a waterproof outside receptical and an inside outlet in the side of our slide out. Now we can run the electric heater or other higher usage items like toaster or frying pan without worrying about tripping the trailers breaker when we turn on the water heater or air conditioner at the same time.
Works great!
The device that I used was this one from West Marine.
Barney
Quite a simple mod.
1. I first determined where the studs were by tapping around on the outside. Then drilled a 2" hole ( I think that was the size) through the outside wall.
2.Cut an opening in the inside wall about 6 inches to the side of the outside hole for the inside plug outlet and box.
3.Snaked a 12/2 wire from outside over to inside hole.
4.Connected outside receptical to wire and mounted it on wall.
5.Connected inside receptical to wire and mounted it on the wall.
6.Checked wiring job with outlet checker - everything showed ok.
7.Plugged in the heater and it worked fine! ๐
We have been using a Vornado electric heater for the past several years. It circulates the heat very well with a large, quiet fan, and has a thermostat and adjustable heat output. We have been very pleased with its' performance during temps down to as low as the high 30's in our 30ft trailer. You can barely hear the fan running when it is on high position.
Barney
โMar-23-2018 07:41 AM
โMar-22-2018 11:36 PM
Passin Thru wrote:
2 8 gal tanks of propane last me for over a month. I have an electric heater for emergency use but don't use it.
โMar-22-2018 08:11 PM
โMar-22-2018 08:52 AM
โMar-21-2018 07:20 PM
trail-explorer wrote:rbpru wrote:
and they shut off if tipped over.
Cheap ones that I've seen at Wal-Mart don't have a tip-over kill switch.
At least the last time I bought they didn't, that was about 3 years ago.
โMar-21-2018 06:20 PM
โMar-21-2018 09:43 AM
โMar-20-2018 04:59 PM
โMar-20-2018 02:54 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Great advice.Lynnmor wrote:
I got rid of my insulation displacement connectors and sleep very well knowing that the wiring is held in place by being wrapped around a screw and tightened. Jamming a copper wire into a slot makes for a connection dependent on a sheared edge holding it with just the spring tension of the part. I took my own good advice and took out the trash.
โMar-20-2018 02:07 PM
BarneyS wrote:toedtoes wrote:
I'm going to argue that if a portable heater is causing your breakers to trip, then you've got a wiring problem.It didn't in my case, and I don't think anyone said it did in this thread.
Now if you routinely run multiple high usage items at the same time on one circuit then that's different.Exactly! This is why I put in the extra line from the campground pedestal.
But just a portable heater during the night should not trip your breaker.It didn't.
Red comments in quote are mine.
Barney
โMar-20-2018 01:47 PM
toedtoes wrote:
I'm going to argue that if a portable heater is causing your breakers to trip, then you've got a wiring problem.It didn't in my case, and I don't think anyone said it did in this thread.
Now if you routinely run multiple high usage items at the same time on one circuit then that's different.Exactly! This is why I put in the extra line from the campground pedestal.
But just a portable heater during the night should not trip your breaker.It didn't.