solar charging issue

[clotus]

Hey guys I just installed The Kid charger with a 325-watt panel 24v panel into my RV. I finished the install, followed the directions, turned it all on, and boom everything seems to be working great. It was raining, but enough sun that the charger was making around 3-4 amps at 12 volts per the charger controller.

Here's my issues. I installed a Bogart Trimetic battery meter a couple weeks ago. The meter properly shows negative amp draw when turning lights on and what not and positive when hooked onto shore power and charging (so appears to be working properly). However the trimetic meter did not show any input from the charger at all. It did reflect higher voltage that the charger was putting out on bulk.

Is the Kid not functioning properly? How can I verify the amps output at the battery to ensure the Kid is charging? Thanks.

[clotus]

Welp, I changed the negative to the proper post on the shunt and success. Thanks guys I was hoping it was an easy and it was even easier than I anticipated!!!

[Almot]

Understood.
You are under-paneling this (quite expensive) controller. 30A MPPT can handle 460-500W.

[clotus]

I would had stayed as well, but that set up went with my 5er when I sold it. I opted for the mppt charger and stayed with a single large panel for install simplicity. The panel was on deep sale so all said and done it was about the same as multiple panels with the sc2030

[Lwiddis]

“the charger was making around 3-4 amps at 12 volts per the charger controller.”

12 volts? Are you sure? Should be 13+

[Almot]

I would've stayed with SC-2030 and installed 2*180W or 2*200W @12V.

But hey, whatever makes man happy 😉

[evanrem]

clotus wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
The neg wire output from the solar controller has to go to the Trimetric shunt same as all the other negatives, for the Tri to "read" that. It sounds like you have that wire going to the neg battery post and not via the shunt.

I think you are absolutely right!!! Why didn't I think of that. I will re-wire it tomorrow and see if that fixed it.

My last install used the trimetic meter along with their solar charger (SC-2030) and I had the cables directly on the batter, but because they communicated it probably worked properly despite not being wiring properly.

I just finished installing a similar set up and he is correct.

[clotus]

BFL13 wrote:
The neg wire output from the solar controller has to go to the Trimetric shunt same as all the other negatives, for the Tri to "read" that. It sounds like you have that wire going to the neg battery post and not via the shunt.

I think you are absolutely right!!! Why didn't I think of that. I will re-wire it tomorrow and see if that fixed it.

My last install used the trimetic meter along with their solar charger (SC-2030) and I had the cables directly on the batter, but because they communicated it probably worked properly despite not being wiring properly.

[BFL13]

The neg wire output from the solar controller has to go to the Trimetric shunt same as all the other negatives, for the Tri to "read" that. It sounds like you have that wire going to the neg battery post and not via the shunt.

You will find the output amps as shown on the controller display can be higher than what is on the Tri, when the battery is nearly full and you have a light on, eg. The battery might be accepting 3 amps and the controller says 6 amps, which means the light is using 3 amps.
The Tri only shows what is actually going into the battery.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Hand draw a diagram.
Battery
Converter
Power to 12 bolt fuse panel

WHERE does panel controller hook to the rig's electrical system?

[Lspangler]

Is your battery at 100%. If it is the solar charger will turn itself off. Let your battery get down to 80% and then check amp display. It should be charging.

Linc