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Solar Solution Adequate?

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Hello, everyone!


Pretty new to the Class A (2017 Newmar Ventana LE) lifestyle, I had the dealer install a 160 Watt Zamp Solar Deluxe kit, with a 30-Amp Controller, anticipating I would have a need and desire to increase capacity. It was important that the Zamp panels make it easy to add a panel or two with simply a plug-in feature, requiring minimal effort to do so at minimal cost (short of self-installation).


While I don't have specific plans to boondock extensively, I also expect I will want to seek hideaways and places absent shore power, so that I may also enjoy the benefit of dry camping for 1-2 weeks at a time, and perhaps longer. After much research, and tapping the experience of the technicians who initially installed the first panel, I've chosen to add two additional 160 Watt panels (for a total of 480 Watts, producing 8.7 Amps each (total 26.1 Amps).


Since the original dealer is 500 miles away, Amazon offers these panels at a much better price than the original dealer, and I'm planning to have a local Zamp dealer install them, which saves me about $400, when compared to having the original dealer sell and install each panel.


Based on the above information, would you conclude that my solution should, under most circumstances, work well for my anticipated needs? If not, what would you recommend?


Thanks for your input and advice - it's much appreciated!


Michael
26 REPLIES 26

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

Simply plug the shore power cord into the generator. If you MUST have a generator, acquire one with remote electric start. Then most of your power can come from solar and an inverter.

I've run my generator less than 10 hours per month in the last year. I wish I had gone massive solar instead.

It is not that you can't run the roof air. It is that you may not be able to run it for very long.


obiwancanoli wrote:
I'd considered a portable generator, and am still mulling it over. Since this would be situated outside the RV, though, I'd need a long extension cord for things like a toaster, TV, coffee maker... yes?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Based on previous posts to this and other subjects, I've learned a great deal, including the fact that Solar won't support the A/C or other high-drain appliances.... thus, run the generator.

I'd considered a portable generator, and am still mulling it over. Since this would be situated outside the RV, though, I'd need a long extension cord for things like a toaster, TV, coffee maker... yes?

wildmanbaker
Explorer
Explorer
I have seen these on some smaller RVs. Being flexible it the best part of them. Your charge controller does not care, or know what kind/brand of solar panels are feeding them. What is more important is how shade tolerant the panels are. If shading one square or circle of the panel shuts off the panel, these are good for a fixed installation, but may not be a good choice for an RV. Solar is good for lights, water pump, RV fridge, furnace, but forget about trying to run AC or any other large or long term 120 volt items. That is why you have a generator. A lot of RVers carry a 2,000 Watt portable generator for watching TV, Movies, coffee making, toast, etc.
Wildmanbaker

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Anyone ever hear of

https://shinry.net/collections/solar-panels/products/100w-18v-12v-bendable-flexible-solar-panel-charger-lightweight

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi obiwancanoli,

I suggest an inexpensive ammeter, or amp-hour counter.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Hoping to get an answer to previous post/question...

Also, an update -

Battery bank (House): each 6V Deep Cycle battery (4) notes the following - 115 min @ 75 amps - 225 Ah @ 20 Hr.

There no room in the battery tray to add 2 more, I'd add them, but it appears there are limitations. No room behind, some above, but looks like tight fit.

Two additional 160W panels installed today (26.1 amps total now), 30A controller.

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
deadticket8 wrote:
Huge consumers are anything electric that produces heat or cold. (not your frig on propane)Probably want to run fans or if its really hot you always have your generator. Hair dryers, those useless heaters they put in the roof a/c, toasters all hungry for power.


If you're referring to the Heat Pump / A/C unit, yeah, I've noted they don't really heat as well as I'd expected, but the gas furnace sure works well!

I found a page on the manuf. website that notes the wattage for everything in my particular model, so that's a big help in managing the power usage... I just have to keep reminding myself how the formula works!

Have seen a few recommendations that I add a voltmeter/ammeter as a monitoring system. I do have a meter - two, actually, if you consider the solar controller - which shows voltage for the batteries... do I really need something more, or would an ammeter be helpful/sufficient/advised?

deadticket8
Explorer
Explorer
Huge consumers are anything electric that produces heat or cold. (not your frig on propane)Probably want to run fans or if its really hot you always have your generator. Hair dryers, those useless heaters they put in the roof a/c, toasters all hungry for power.

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
โ€œwhen batteries reach, as I understand it, that critical 50% power level, when the indicator shows LESS than 12 volts?โ€

Fifty percent battery SOC is just a guide while I try hard to stay above 60% SOC. Itโ€™s about how many cycles you want from a set of batteries. You donโ€™t have the basics. MORE reading...less questions.

At a 50% Iโ€™d get 1200 cycles per Trojan on my Signature Line T125s but only taking 40% should give me 1500 cycles.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

2oldman
Explorer
Explorer
This tutorial may be of some help. 12v side of life.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, I'm learning... and with each answer, I have more questions... feel thankful so many offer their input, advice, guidance, observations, and more - thank you!

Is my controller for current solar a good indicator to determine when batteries reach, as I understand it, that critical 50% power level, when the indicator shows LESS than 12 volts?

Would an external meter of some type be wise to check battery levels?

Are watt hours available indicated on the battery?

With the new RV, I got a mountain of manuals for everything, but none, surprisingly, show specs that indicate power usage or output, so the calculations I read in these threads - all a mystery in themselves - make little sense... just can't seem to wrap my head around that, though I feel it's important I learn it, and practice, practice, practice working the equations until I DO understand it well...

I ran across a link to a page that helps calculate solar power needs, which serve as a guide to determining how many amps/panels would be needed to satisfy probable needs, and while useful to some, it asks a lot of data I don't know how to find....

Must I spend near endless hours surfing the web to find power usage for my fridge, microwave, water heater, TV, W/D, etc.?

jplante4
Explorer
Explorer
BTW, there's another thread running on this in the Tech Issues forum here
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
When an OP says they have a residential fridge that can run on propane or 120 electric, that OP needs to do some reading before asking any questions.

โ€œI completely understand the significanceโ€ No, you donโ€™t.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would go with a lot more solar than what you have, 480W would be my starting point. I would take it up to the max that your 30 amp controller can handle.

I was going to put solar on my MH last year, but a new track rig for hunting came along, so the solar got side tracked, but I'm back on it for next fall. I think I have my panel layout on the roof set six panels totaling 1,020W. I only want to have mess with it once.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.