Solar options, quick review requested

[WesternHorizon]

23' Class C, no solar, Lifeline 80 AH AGM battery 4 years old and still going good, UltraIII 6300 3-stage converter, and generator.

Typically 6 days a month boondocking, currently on first 68 day long trip, heading towards probably 6 months a year on the road / boondocking within 2 years.

Phoenix Costco today, heading for salad and... what is this?

Pallets of Interstate Golf Cart batteries, 6v, 210 AH... $94. Certainly not a product I have seen in Costco in 28 years.

Started doing some Googling.

This gentleman endorses 6 volt GC batteries as better than AGM for boondocking use: half cost, lighter, but AGM does hold charge longest.

https://trekwithus.com/rv-batteries-101-and-why-we-use-trojan-t-105-6v-golf-cart-batteries-in-our-rv...

And finally found THE calculator. This thing is AMAZING.

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/solar-calculator.html

Options I am weighing....

1. For my current 80AH battery, I get 480 WH, and some days I have to run the generator up to 4 hrs if I am working on the computer a lot. I would need two 100W panels to keep this setup charged! Somehow I thought I could get away with one.

2. If I doubled the battery size to 160AH, I get 680 WH, and would need three panels! Wow.

And, the 6 volt Golf Cart batteries all start around 210 AH so I can't really get to 160AH.

Closest in an AGM would be GPL-31XT 12 Volt, 125 Amp Hour Deep Cycle AGM, $347

3. If I bought two of these Costco batteries it would nearly triple capacity up to 210 AH, I get 1280 WH and need 5 panels!

Since I can buy 2 ea. 6V, 220 AH for $186 (plus $30 core fee), why not just buy these batteries, charge them with just 2 panels (which I already need) and frequent driving (I tend to move around a fair amount) and keep them charged way up all the time?

Obviously this is lots of reserve capacity that I might never use but wouldn’t the batteries be healthy because they stay well-charged?

Yes, it’s sort of a waste but the batteries are so discounted that it would seem to make economic sense.

Constructive feedback greatly appreciated. I need to buy them tomorrow if I am going to do it so quick responses appreciated.

[time2roll]

The 9280 might be too big for the slot. Get dimensions from the link and measure. Allow space for the wire connection. If you have space you can mount it behind the panel. I recommend #4 wire for the entire charging loop regardless of converter. (don't forget ground connections at the converter and battery)

If the converter must fit in the slot there is a PD4655 that will work.
http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-series-Upgrade

Possibly just get a whole new panel. Get the 60 amp.
http://www.bestconverter.com/4000-Series-Compact-Power-Center

As for battery I recommend Lifeline to match what you have and to match charging specs for all batteries.

[WesternHorizon]

My current thinking...

Key point: Current system, while very limited, has served me well for 4 years and hundreds of nights on the road.

When I learned the generator is not charging my single 80 AH battery well, that started pushing me towards solar.

Thanks to t2r above, I now understand that a charger upgrade is an alternative.

I hate to subject other people to generator noise, but most of the time I am in remote areas without other prople. If not I move or reschedule generator use.

So a PD-92XX is the first thing I will pursue. Looks plug and play but I need to check the cable run ampacity.

Next, another battery. Of course this has to match the one I have. Reluctantly I am headed back towards AGM. Given very limited space and access, I think vented cells are just not an option.

Probably the best of the worst spots is under the dining table. Unusual but I have been studying options for a long time. There are not many options.

Finally, solar. It's going to happen but further down the list.

Thanks to all who contributed and helped me think through this! Much appreciated.

[WesternHorizon]

time2roll wrote:

WesternHorizon wrote:
Sorry, I meant UltraIII upgrade kit

http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Converter-Replacement-Kit_p_46.html#.Ws2G3IjwZEY

That is a WFCO and notorious for just charging at a fixed 13.6 volts trickle charge. Unless you actually see voltage steadily climhttp://www.bestconverter.com/9200-148-Volt-Deck-Mount_c_227.htmlb to 14.4 volts by some miracle that WFCO will chronically undercharge your lifeline.

If it is fairly new verify the operation and call Randy to swap for an 80 amp Progressive Dynamics with the Wizard controller.

I don't think the ProgDyn's were even listed 4 years ago.

May be time to send BestConverter another $200+.

Will this just slide into the bottom of the original Magnatek enclosure? The Ultra III did include a fuse board upgrade.

[time2roll]

WesternHorizon wrote:
Sorry, I meant UltraIII upgrade kit

http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Converter-Replacement-Kit_p_46.html#.Ws2G3IjwZEY

That is a WFCO and notorious for just charging at a fixed 13.6 volts trickle charge. Unless you actually see voltage steadily climb to 14.4 volts by some miracle that WFCO will chronically undercharge your lifeline.

If it is fairly new verify the operation and call Randy to swap for an 80 amp Progressive Dynamics with the Wizard controller.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9280C-80-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger_p_173.html#.Ws2NbojwaUk

[WesternHorizon]

theoldwizard1 wrote:


Read this regarding charging a house battery from a vehicle alternator.

DC-DC battery charging

Interesting, thanks for sharing. I notice the alternator is very fast... but it stops at 14.4.

Lots to learn about.

[WesternHorizon]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Start with an energy audit. Direct measurement with a Kill-a-watt meter works well so long as the total load is kept below 15 amps.

This link may help.

https://freecampsites.net/adding-solar/

I have a KAW and it is very interesting. 90% of my load is laptop, sometimes lots of video rendering.

But I should do a complete audit and projection of future needs.

[WesternHorizon]

time2roll wrote:

WesternHorizon wrote:
23' Class C, no solar, Lifeline 80 AH AGM battery 4 years old and still going good, Magnetek/Parallax 6300 3-stage converter, and generator.

There is nothing three stage with the 6300 converter.
Or did you upgrade to something else?

Sorry, I meant UltraIII upgrade kit

http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Converter-Replacement-Kit_p_46.html#.Ws2G3IjwZEY

[theoldwizard1]

WesternHorizon wrote:

3. If I bought two of these Costco batteries it would nearly triple capacity up to 210 AH, I get 1280 WH and need 5 panels!

Since I can buy 2 ea. 6V, 220 AH for $186 (plus $30 core fee), why not just buy these batteries, charge them with just 2 panels (which I already need) and frequent driving (I tend to move around a fair amount) and keep them charged way up all the time?

Read this regarding charging a house battery from a vehicle alternator.

DC-DC battery charging

[theoldwizard1]

If you really want TRUE deep cycle AGM batteries, they ARE available, but you will pay $$$ for them

Trojan T105-AGM 6V size GC2 217 AH (obviously 2 requiref to make 12V)

Trojan T1275-AMM 12V size GC12 140 AH

As stated flooded (wet) golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams (both have carried them for several years) are the best bang for the buck !

[time2roll]

WesternHorizon wrote:
23' Class C, no solar, Lifeline 80 AH AGM battery 4 years old and still going good, Magnetek/Parallax 6300 3-stage converter, and generator.

There is nothing three stage with the 6300 converter.
Or did you upgrade to something else?

[OkieGene]

Not to derail the OP, but is anyone, who already has solar on the roof, having another panel that is not on the roof? I'm referring to a panel that can be put in rv basement storage, or somewhere in the rv, that can come out and plugged in to the battery bank, as needed, and positioned to start grabbing the sun rays in the morning and evening, when the roof panels just don't get enough overhead sun due to the angle? Seems to me to be a good idea to have a 150-300-ish watt panel for this purpose. Yes, it's some extra weight and space to deal with, and some expense too, but if you can swing it, why not? It would beat having to run the generator when you just don't have to. Just another option and choice. Thanks!

[pianotuna]

I'm done laying in the snow to top up batteries--so I went AGM.

[Ductape]

Oversize batteries are no detriment at all, unless weight is a constraint. GC2 are always the best bang for your buck. Cycling them 70-90 will promote longer life than a smaller battery at 50-90.

That said, I'll not trade my AGM for wet cells. I'm done cleaning corrosion and watering batteries, and the higher charge acceptance reduces run time on the genset.

We use generator and solar, depending on circumstances.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Start with an energy audit. Direct measurement with a Kill-a-watt meter works well so long as the total load is kept below 15 amps.

This link may help.

https://freecampsites.net/adding-solar/