Wiring problems installing new converter

[Ramblin__Ralph]

I decided to replace my old Magnetek converter with a new Progressive Dynamics 35A unit. Having some problems with connecting to existing large wiring to my battery. Old unit used two AWG 8 wires for positive and two for negative. They connected to large terminals on the back of the DC fuse board with a large set screw to hold the wires in.

New unit has same type of terminal, with about a 1/4" x 1/4" opening, but at the top of the front of the DC fuse board. Battery wires come in from the bottom of the enclosure and it's very hard to bend them to come up above the board then bend 90 degrees to fit into the terminal.

I decided to get some sort of "set screw" junction box for the AWG 8 wires and a short piece of flexible AWG 6 battery wire to attach to the junction box and to the fuse board. This way my old hands wouldn't have to crimp terminals on AWG 8. I got this.

Problem with it is that the enclosure is only 5" wide and has about 1-3/4" behind the fuse board. Not much room with four AWG 8 wires interfering. Also had planned on 2 junction boxes (positive and negative). The junction box is about 2" X 2" X 1". Don't think I can get 2 into the enclosure.

Found these, but they are too long.

So maybe since I have to crimp to use a terminal board, I might as well use a bolt to hold the 3 ring terminals together. Obviously would have to insulate the positive one. When I installed my 2nd battery, I did some crimping of AWG 8, but I'm older and weaker now. 🙂

This whole project has been complicated by the fact the unit is at floor level. My old mid 70s body doesn't tolerate me lying down on my side to work on things for more than a few minutes. Another problem is the existing AWG 8 wires only stick out a couple of inches from the fuse board enclosure. Fortunately, this is far enough for crimping.

Any suggestions? Is a bolt for a junction "box" a good idea?

Thanks,

[Ramblin__Ralph]

Thanks for the tips. I think I've come up with a workable solution. Still to be fully implemented. 🙂

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Stiff wire is a pain in the glueteous maximus to route, slowly but surely eBray is filling with SILICONE wire to 6 gauge. It's expensive. It comes from China, lengths are limited. But AWG is accurate, the wire is tinned and extremely fine stranded and it is indeed as limp as cooked spaghetti.

The monster charger I am building is 100% silicone wire inside. The harnesses must be cleanly routed and terminal blocks are used.

[time2roll]

I think you might be well served by a mobile RV technician.

[wa8yxm]

YOu simply connect the red and blue wires together to "Jumper" it.

I would pre-bend the wires.. Using a good pair of slip joint pliars.

But then I installed my 9180 "outboard" as far as the 12 volt wires were concerned, not an easy job with the Magnetek upgrade.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Use a Kearney Split Bolt



A hardware store item. From tiny to huge.

Tighten the snotteroo out of it then use self fuzing electrical wrap.



and presto! It will be done right...

[SoundGuy]

BFL13 wrote:
35 amps is tiny, so a single #8 should be fine unless it is very long (over 10ft? Not checked on an ampacity table for both ways-round trip distance--that's your job 🙂 )

Here's a useful Blue Sea DC Wire Gauge Chart ...

[BFL13]

The 6300 series needs a new fuse panel or a jumper for the old one to get by the "split". A 7300 (Magnetek before Parallex bought them out) does not have the split so that 7300 fuse panel is ok to go with the PD 35 amper.

Either one of the 6300 or the 7300 uses blue(pos) and white(neg) wires and they are single #10.

SO--somebody has been at your set up before you got there.

If for some reason, whoever it was used double #8s to get from fuse panel to battery, you can just leave that there or go higher( lower in gauge number) for your installation.

35 amps is tiny, so a single #8 should be fine unless it is very long (over 10ft? Not checked on an ampacity table for both ways-round trip distance--that's your job 🙂 )