cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Got to lift the fiver

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
Well with the new Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4 the fiver has to be lifted. the springs are on top of axle already. Found a company that makes blocks to lift it more. Bigger tires are not an option as they will not clear unless fiver is lifted. Anybody else had to resort to this?
33 REPLIES 33

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
laknox wrote:
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
225/75/15 I looked at 16" tires but don't have enough room between the tires


I'd reconsider the Maxxis. There are better options, these days, and Maxxis has been having more frequent failures the past couple years. Also, they're still restricted to 65 mph. You may not want to drive faster than that, but a tire that's rated higher, is going to be (or at least on paper) a better tire, with more heat resistance. That is the real killer of tires.

Lyle
i have never had a failure with a maxxis trailer tire. I have other brands and so have my friends. All have switched to Maxxis and no more failures in our group. if it ain't broke don't fix it jmho.

Agreed, I replaced the original Blow Max after the first season with Maxxis, and upgraded from D to E rated. No problems until a bearing failure heated one of them up 4 years later to where it developed a raised center in the tread 3000 miles later. Replaced all four with more of the same 3 years ago and going strong.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
Dtank wrote:
Bookmark this thread to link for future posters who can't decide whether they want to purchase a 4x4 or a 4x2 truck.....like the poster who couldn't decide between the two - as he likes the *looks* of a 4x4 better.

OP - NO "blocks" - do it right as suggested!

:W
the tread has nothing to do with 4x4 or 4x2 I have to have 4x4. The truck being lowered may be enough I will know tonight. If not the spring place advised they can help with different springs on the fiver.

During season 7, the OEM springs on my fiver were so soft, the tires were bottoming out against the floor. I took it to a spring shop where they replaced the 4 leaf spring packs with 6 leaf spring packs. It raised the fiver 2" so it is now level and no more wallowing in bumps. It ticks me off that they put minimal suspension on these things.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
laknox wrote:
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
225/75/15 I looked at 16" tires but don't have enough room between the tires


I'd reconsider the Maxxis. There are better options, these days, and Maxxis has been having more frequent failures the past couple years. Also, they're still restricted to 65 mph. You may not want to drive faster than that, but a tire that's rated higher, is going to be (or at least on paper) a better tire, with more heat resistance. That is the real killer of tires.

Lyle
i have never had a failure with a maxxis trailer tire. I have other brands and so have my friends. All have switched to Maxxis and no more failures in our group. if it ain't broke don't fix it jmho.

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
225/75/15 I looked at 16" tires but don't have enough room between the tires


I'd reconsider the Maxxis. There are better options, these days, and Maxxis has been having more frequent failures the past couple years. Also, they're still restricted to 65 mph. You may not want to drive faster than that, but a tire that's rated higher, is going to be (or at least on paper) a better tire, with more heat resistance. That is the real killer of tires.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
225/75/15 I looked at 16" tires but don't have enough room between the tires

azrving
Explorer
Explorer

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
Towed 5er last weekend and still need the 5er a couple more inches up to be level and enough clearance at truck bed. I will take one or two more short trips before winterized. This winter I will address the issue. The B and W hitch that came with the 5er is the quietest hitch with no slop that I have ever used. The 5er although is a 2013 or 14 can't remember now had never been camped in but 1 night prior to me buying it a year ago. All systems worked and the trip was trouble free. I will update when I raise the 5er. I am ordering all new maxxis 8008 tires to replace the ones that have aged out but have very few miles. I will also cut plexiglass for the screen door as I have on every unit we have ever owned. This is our 8th TT or 5er. Thanks, Will

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
Dtank wrote:
Bookmark this thread to link for future posters who can't decide whether they want to purchase a 4x4 or a 4x2 truck.....like the poster who couldn't decide between the two - as he likes the *looks* of a 4x4 better.

OP - NO "blocks" - do it right as suggested!

:W
the tread has nothing to do with 4x4 or 4x2 I have to have 4x4. The truck being lowered may be enough I will know tonight. If not the spring place advised they can help with different springs on the fiver.

Dtank
Explorer
Explorer
Bookmark this thread to link for future posters who can't decide whether they want to purchase a 4x4 or a 4x2 truck.....like the poster who couldn't decide between the two - as he likes the *looks* of a 4x4 better.

OP - NO "blocks" - do it right as suggested!

:W

garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III
Allworth wrote:
It would be nice if everybody listed where their Mechanical Engineering degrees are registered. PE numbers??


That was smart azz statement. I guess we all need degrees to work on our trucks according to you.

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
Allworth wrote:
It would be nice if everybody listed where their Mechanical Engineering degrees are registered. PE numbers??
Dont have one lol ๐Ÿ™‚

Allworth
Explorer
Explorer
It would be nice if everybody listed where their Mechanical Engineering degrees are registered. PE numbers??
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

Wills6_4_Hemi
Explorer
Explorer
Update, got truck lowered in the rear 3 1/4 inches. Truck actually looks level now. Total cost $320. I can't tell any difference in ride etc. I will hookup to fiver soon as possible to see if a small lift is required to give me enough clearance and have the fiver level.

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
Ski Pro 3 wrote:
A four inch drop is going to have to reconfigure a lot more than just suspension. Brake lines, drive lines will need to be shortened. Shocks will need to be resized for the shorter suspension travel. How much space between the axle and the rubber stops anyways? If it's, say, 6 inches and you just lowered the rear 4 of them, you are left with 2 inches of travel.
In order to balance the front, you'll have to lower it as well, affecting some steering components. Think this option all the way through before going forward.
truck has 8-9 inches of travel. 4 inches will have no effects on the systems you mentioned. Squating my truck to bumper stops would take well over 6000 lbs. my pin weight is less than 2000 lbs and only squats the truck 1/2 inch. Thanks for the advise but the modification will have no effect on the other systems and In fact will level the truck. These new trucks are way to tall imho. Thanks

You mean your truck HAD 8 inches of suspension travel prior to lowering it 4 inches. And it HAD 6000 pounds capacity before hitting the bumper stops when there was 8 inches of suspension travel. With 4 inches, it will bottom in much less than even half that amount as the suspension sag isn't linear on springs. The first half of travel takes less weight than the last half. Shocks have valves. The first part of the shock travel absorbs small bumps and is pretty mild. Their damping action gets progressively firmer the further they are compressed. Many aftermarket shocks are pressurized. Loading a shock with 4 inches of compression (or what ever the equivalent is for the shock angle) is going to load a pressurized shock and make it pretty stiff with an unloaded truck. If a shock ever needed to come off the truck and a new one installed, it won't be easy compressing it enough and might actually be dangerous.
The brake lines, drive lines, tie rods, etc all may 'work' with a 4" sag, but they are not designed for that and they should all be revisited to be sure they are optimized for the changes you have in mine. With that said, I want to wish you the best of luck with your decision.