Dash air conditioner conditioner leaking oil

[GrampaR123]

My dash air conditioning compressor is leaking a small amount of oil from the area of the pulley. It's still working but obviously this isn't good. My question is: Can it "seize" at some point? We are due to leave next month for a 3400 mile trip and I'm not sure whether I have to get it fixed before we leave or not. Average estimates for repairs are about $1700.
We bought the rig new, it now has about 71,000 miles. Most of those miles have been trouble free except for a blown spark plug last year.
Thanks in advance for any opinions/advice.
31 foot 2002 Bounder, Ford chassis, Triton V10 engine.

[OkieGene]

Have your mechanic add a dye to the system. Then verify the leak, as well as if leaking in any other area.

[crawford]

and if main unit fails you are screw for sure get it fixed before the trip.

[67Cutlass]

Anytime faced with possible repairs and are still at home, consider this.

Would you rather have it repaired locally, at your convience, with a shop you know and trust? Or locate a repair shop that you have no idea of the quality of work and would want you to return for any warranty work?

Myself, locally wins out hands down everytime.

[gonesouth]

The compressor seized on the CAt engine in my 98Beaver Marquis. It took out the sepentine belt which shut down the alternator. Luckily, the oil pump is gear driven on that engine so Brett knew that and advised me to run the generator to keep the batteries charged and run the house AC. Worked fine, and made it to Bethel Truck Service in Bethel, PA. They put on a different idler and a shorter belt and I was on the road the next morning at 11AM. Never did replace the dash air compressor.

[jyrostng]

Hopefully it will be cheaper than what you were quoted, good luck with it all and the trip.

[GrampaR123]

Thank you to everyone who responded. All good info and ideas. I spoke to our regular mechanic this morning who suggested that I get it fixed before our trip. We're headed to Wall, South Dakota in July and it will be plenty hot, for sure. If the worst case scenario was that we couldn't use the dash air, my wife wouldn't be happy. We do use the generator for the house air while driving once in a while, but it still stays pretty warm up in the drivers seat without the dash air. I'm kinda trapped in a small 3-sided room because the front wall of the large slide is right behind the drivers seat.
Again, thanks to all who responded.
Happy camping.

[jyrostng]

IBcarguy wrote:

Cobra21 wrote:
If it is leaking refrigerant oil it should also be leaking freon. When it gets lower on freon it will most likely shut down the compressor. Then it shouldn't cool or damage the compressor.
Brian

X2 - this is correct

The bearing has nothing to do with the clutch, it's mounted inside the pulley separate from the clutch, whenever the pulley turns, the bearing turns also. When the bearing is going bad, it makes noise, even with the compressor clutch not engaged. a separate issue from a oil leak

[jyrostng]

You say it leaks a SMALL amount, how small? If you can see wetness from oil it's too much, If you just see a dry line of residue from the pulley on the engine cover, it could last for years.

[hypoxia]

Ranger Smith wrote:
If the bearing fails you are stranded on the side of the road.

The clutch bearing is not associated with the oil or refrigerant in the system. It is a seperate component mounted in the clutch assembly.

Loss of refrigerant or oil will have NO effect on the operation of the bearing.

A leaking front seal will cause loss of refrigerant resulting in the low pressure switch disengaging the clutch. No damage will occur.

[IBcarguy]

Cobra21 wrote:
If it is leaking refrigerant oil it should also be leaking freon. When it gets lower on freon it will most likely shut down the compressor. Then it shouldn't cool or damage the compressor.
Brian

X2 - this is correct

[fourmat]

You can either disconnect the compressor if you don't need the A/C or get it fixed Don't run that far with it the way it is

[jyrostng]

They used to just change the seal.

[Rick_Jay]

GrampaR123,

What Brian said is true. The refrigerant is leaking too and eventually the low-pressure switch will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging and the compressor won't run. Or, you could just disconnect the wire going to the clutch to let it free-wheel all of the time.

However, if you're unfortunate enough to have your compressor clutch seize as we were about 5 years back (5 miles from the campground, 250 miles from home), then the compressor will always be turning and without oil & refrigerant in the system, the compressor will destroy itself and you will be stranded on the side of the road once that happens.

You should probably get it fixed before the trip as your dash A/C can cut out at any time, and I'd assume you'd want it working for your trip. You can somewhat compensate by running your generator & roof A/C, but it will still get warm up front in the heat of the day.

On our rig (GM 8.1 engine), someone on a different RV forum had posted a procedure & part numbers that allowed me to change out the serpentine belt to a slightly shorter one, change the idler pulley, and reroute the belt around the compressor. I was able to do this in the campground to get home and then work on changing out the compressor when I had the time at home. I don't know if such a work around is available with the Ford V10.

But, a new compressor is in your future regardless if you want the dash A/C to work, so you might as well have it done. A compressor change is not that difficult if you have the tools & refrigerant to do the job. The compressor is probably 2-3 hundred bucks and the vacuum pump, gauge set & refrigerant is probably another $300 or so.

Good Luck!

~Rick

[Cobra21]

If it is leaking refrigerant oil it should also be leaking freon. When it gets lower on freon it will most likely shut down the compressor. Then it shouldn't cool or damage the compressor.
Brian