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Universal Joints

Gulfcoast
Explorer
Explorer
2009 Dodge, 2500, diesel, 150k... please tell me how to check the universal joints, just in case they need replacing.

I don't hear any clunking noise, but just want to be sure before a long trip.

Thanks
RV'ing since 1960
Dodge Cummins Diesel
Mega Cab
Jayco Travel Trailer
16 REPLIES 16

dfb
Explorer
Explorer
While comjg to a stop if you feel like youre going over rumblevstrips, u joints. Put truck in drive the reverse, if you hear a big clunk, ijoints.. launch shutter is normal..

dfb
Explorer
Explorer
While comjg to a stop if you feel like youre going over rumblevstrips, u joints. Put truck in drive the reverse, if you hear a big clunk, ijoints.. launch shutter is normal..

dirtyhandz
Explorer
Explorer
Here in Ohio it seems like I'm putting front axle joints (the ones at the wheels) in mine every 50 thousand miles. MOOG's with grease fittings. Think the salt eats them up. Rebuilt the rear drive shaft at 150,00 and the front shortly after that. 237,00 on it now. Keeping them greased seems to help them last. Considered putting a one piece aluminum shaft in the rear but ended up keeping the two piece.

DirtyOil
Explorer
Explorer
boogie_4wheel wrote:
To do a good job; disconnect the driveshaft and rotate the joint with your hand. Feel for stiff and/or rough movement which would indicate dry and possibly failed needle bearings. Doing this takes more time but you will find a bad joint much earlier.

If you have a two piece rear shaft, a failing center joint can cause premature carrier bearing failure (destroying the rubber support).

Climbing under the truck and twisting and shaking the shaft looking for movement will only show you an already destroyed joint. Shudder during launch because of a bad joint will likely go unnoticed when shaking the shaft by hand and looking for movement.

I just rebuilt the double cardan on the front of my dodge yesterday. Stock joints. They were still greased good, but the inside of the caps were getting dirty; 126k miles. Your joints could be fine still


As stated above... this is the only way to check u-joints, a seized u-joint is hard, almost impossible to diagnose without removal of the drive shaft.
2013 RAM 3500 CTD Crew 4x4 Laramie
2014 Sprinter Copper Canyon 269FWRLS

GUTS GLORY RAM

falconbrother
Explorer II
Explorer II
From what I have observed modern OEM U-Joints last a really long time in parts of the country where they don't salt the roads very often or not living on the coast. Mine had 220,000 miles on them and when I pulled the drive shaft last year they were still perfect. Nevertheless, if they are worn it's easy to spot when you get under there and inspect them, give them a good wiggle. If they are in good shape leave them alone.

Gulfcoast
Explorer
Explorer
It's a 2-wheel drive and everything checked out fine. No repairs needed.
RV'ing since 1960
Dodge Cummins Diesel
Mega Cab
Jayco Travel Trailer

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
At 150k, every u joint in the truck is on borrowed time.
To check them, if thereโ€™s any slop they are toast. And they typically show a bunch of rust on or around the joint.
Also check the cardan joint in the front driveshaft. Have you been greasing it? If the front Shaft cuts loose, it usually does a bunch of other damage.
Coincidentally the only component that hasnโ€™t needed joints yet is my front driveshaft. Same truck, similar miles.
1 rear u joint at about 110 k, replaced both.
1 front axle joint at 150k replaced both.
Driveshaft is still good. Itโ€™s also a good idea to remove the front driveshaft if you havenโ€™t before. Theyโ€™re a ______ to get off with the torx head bolts. Make sure that sucker isnโ€™t rusted in there in case you get a bad joint and have to remove it on the road somewhere.
I went overboard with the front axle joint and did both u joints and unit bearings.
150-200k on old trucks seems to be the average lifespan of these components.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

BluegrassBill
Explorer
Explorer
Use 2 pair of large ChanelLock pliers. Grip the drive line just behind the U-Joint and in front Twist opposite directions, Try several different positions, If even the slightest movement replace. Hope this helps you.
Bill & Kathy Francis
95 Itasca Sunrise 29RQ,P32 454 Chevy, Banks,ECM chip.Safe-T-Plus, Bilsteins, Super Steer Bell Crank, Stewart Stage 1 Waterpump, Severe Duty Fan Clutch, OilGuard Bypass Filter, Coolant Filter. Rear Tracbar. 1-5/8" Front Swaybar.

boogie_4wheel
Explorer
Explorer
To do a good job; disconnect the driveshaft and rotate the joint with your hand. Feel for stiff and/or rough movement which would indicate dry and possibly failed needle bearings. Doing this takes more time but you will find a bad joint much earlier.

If you have a two piece rear shaft, a failing center joint can cause premature carrier bearing failure (destroying the rubber support).

Climbing under the truck and twisting and shaking the shaft looking for movement will only show you an already destroyed joint. Shudder during launch because of a bad joint will likely go unnoticed when shaking the shaft by hand and looking for movement.

I just rebuilt the double cardan on the front of my dodge yesterday. Stock joints. They were still greased good, but the inside of the caps were getting dirty; 126k miles. Your joints could be fine still
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer,Transgo Shift Kit ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges, GDP 20/2 filters, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
Honda EU3000I Genny

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
A couple of ways a bad UJ will show up is by causing Launch shudder or a high pitched, constant squeak at low speed.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
midnightsadie wrote:
in the old days I,d crawl under the truck and move them up and down, and a good wiggle if theres movment they should be check. I like the ones with grease fittings. remember back when trucks ,cars had a doz grease fittings.


When the original equipment u-joint wears out from lack of grease, most of the replacement parts do have grease fittings. I would rather put in a squirt of grease when I do an oil change than replace parts.

fj12ryder
Explorer II
Explorer II
midnightsadie wrote:
in the old days I,d crawl under the truck and move them up and down ,and a good wiggle if theres movment they should be check. I like the ones with grease fittings. remember back when trucks ,cars had a doz grease fittings.
Yeah, I remember those grease fittings, and wheel bearings that had to be adjusted, and brakes that didn't work that well in the rain, and engines that were lucky to last 50,000 miles before they needed to be freshened up, and vacuum windshield wipers, and non-synchro transmissions, and manual chokes, and carburetors that required frequent adjustments, and points and condensers, and coils that shorted out when it rained, distributor caps that had to be replaced.

Lots of things I remember and miss almost none of them.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

path1
Explorer
Explorer
When waiting for diff oil to drain...check for excessive slop in u joints.
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
in the old days I,d crawl under the truck and move them up and down ,and a good wiggle if theres movment they should be check. I like the ones with grease fittings. remember back when trucks ,cars had a doz grease fittings.