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 > WD hitch instructions conflict with GM

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LarryL

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Posted: 06/12/18 01:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ktmrfs wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

GM is correct.


on my two 2500HD's I've tried both the GM recomendation and the "bring it back to unloaded" on the front.

I prefer the "bring front back to unloaded" rather than split the difference on the front. Less front end wander felt more controlled and a better ride.

In both cases the back is below the unloaded height, but I don't worry about the back.

Now, my case I have 1400-1500 lbs on the tongue.

On most GM do NOT go below unloaded, you can end up quickly on the front end overload bumpers, which makes for a terrible ride.

try both ways and decide which works best for your towing situation.


The front fender sits at 36" with no trailer connected.

If I am reading the Husky manual correctly, it is telling me if the rear drops 1" then the front should drop 1" to 35".

If I am reading the GM manual correctly is telling me if the front rises 2" with no WD bars, then I should adjust the front with WD bars to rise 1" to 37".

So I guess what you are saying is , it should not sit below 36" with a trailer connected. Correct?

Still trying to grasp this as well as the physics of the WD system.

bartlettj

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Posted: 06/12/18 02:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would follow GM's instructions for the specific vehicle. The instructions take into account the suspension geometry as well as the axle ratings and hitch bar loads. The GM 2500hd trucks sit rear high when unloaded so restoring the front ride height may make the most sense. The half tons and suburban/Tahoe sit closer to level unloaded so maybe there it makes more sense to do by front spring compression. The half tons hitch design may not like the torque a wdh would apply to compress the front suspension more.

Having used both for the same trailer, the HD trucks don't have as many steering issues when heavily loaded without wdh, both due to wheelbase and tire stiffness.

ktmrfs

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Posted: 06/12/18 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LarryL wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

GM is correct.


on my two 2500HD's I've tried both the GM recomendation and the "bring it back to unloaded" on the front.

I prefer the "bring front back to unloaded" rather than split the difference on the front. Less front end wander felt more controlled and a better ride.

In both cases the back is below the unloaded height, but I don't worry about the back.

Now, my case I have 1400-1500 lbs on the tongue.

On most GM do NOT go below unloaded, you can end up quickly on the front end overload bumpers, which makes for a terrible ride.

try both ways and decide which works best for your towing situation.


The front fender sits at 36" with no trailer connected.

If I am reading the Husky manual correctly, it is telling me if the rear drops 1" then the front should drop 1" to 35".

If I am reading the GM manual correctly is telling me if the front rises 2" with no WD bars, then I should adjust the front with WD bars to rise 1" to 37".

So I guess what you are saying is , it should not sit below 36" with a trailer connected. Correct?

Still trying to grasp this as well as the physics of the WD system.


1) Ignore how much the rear drops loaded or unloaded, WDH or not
2) bring the front back to 36" or slightly higher but not lower loaded with WDH adjusted.
3) or bring the front 1/2 way back to unloaded.

4) take it for a drive and see how you like it. I suspect if you do (3) and then try (2) you will like (2) better for ride and handling, but do whichever you feel is best.


Do NOT repeat NOT drop the front below 36". GM on most trucks has a rubber overload bumper between 1/2" and 1" below stock empty ride height. Once you hit that ride goes to **** and you almost can't drop the front any more.

Read the husky manual again. Most will say bring the front ride height back to unloaded and don't worry about the rear. you do not want the front and rear to drop the same amount. that's almost impossible to do anymore. That worked back in days of old when TV was a car or softly sprung truck.


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jerem0621

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Posted: 06/12/18 05:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Food for thought

Can-Am RV- setting your torsion bars

Thanks!

Jeremiah

LarryL

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Posted: 06/12/18 08:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ktmrfs: What you say makes sense. The Husky manual states:
24. Retract the tongue jack completely so the hitch is supporting the weight of the trailer. Measure the same 3 places as done on pages 5 & 6 and compare. The tow vehicle should settle evenly front to back. The rear fender should not settle lower than the front fender, if it has then you will need to either raise the lift brackets 1 hole or add a hardened washer under the large head tilt pin on the head assembly. The frame mark should be ¼”-1” max higher than the original measurement noted on page 4, section 3.

The article linked in the previous post seems to state the same goal.

To add more info about my case, the Rear fender starts at 38-5/8" unloaded (2-5/8 diff R-F). The best I could get to have the TV "settle evenly" is F:35-1/4" R:37" (1-3/4" diff R-F) This required lifting the TV rear to almost the top of the jack to be able to load the bars onto the brackets.

I think I will re-adjust to put the Front to 36" for our next trip. Your warning about the "Bottom Out Bumper" concerns me the most.

ktmrfs

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Posted: 06/13/18 11:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LarryL wrote:

ktmrfs: What you say makes sense. The Husky manual states:
24. Retract the tongue jack completely so the hitch is supporting the weight of the trailer. Measure the same 3 places as done on pages 5 & 6 and compare. The tow vehicle should settle evenly front to back. The rear fender should not settle lower than the front fender, if it has then you will need to either raise the lift brackets 1 hole or add a hardened washer under the large head tilt pin on the head assembly. The frame mark should be ¼”-1” max higher than the original measurement noted on page 4, section 3.

The article linked in the previous post seems to state the same goal.

To add more info about my case, the Rear fender starts at 38-5/8" unloaded (2-5/8 diff R-F). The best I could get to have the TV "settle evenly" is F:35-1/4" R:37" (1-3/4" diff R-F) This required lifting the TV rear to almost the top of the jack to be able to load the bars onto the brackets.

I think I will re-adjust to put the Front to 36" for our next trip. Your warning about the "Bottom Out Bumper" concerns me the most.


In order to do what Husky claims, you would likely need the front to drop below unloaded height. What husky outlines is what was often the standard practice 20 or more years ago when people were towing with cars and station wagon. IIRC Reese and others no longer outline the husky procedure and only talk about bringing the front back to or near unloaded. And then make sure the rear is the same or LOWER than unloaded. In all likelyhood it will be 1-2" below unloaded.

afidel

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Posted: 06/13/18 12:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah, here's what Fastway (maker of E2 and Equilizer) have to say on the subject:

Quote:


A setup achieving adequate weight distribution usually brings the trailer back to a position parallel to the ground after coupling it to the tow vehicle and engaging weight distribution. It also brings the FRONT of the tow vehicle back down to just slightly higher than the uncoupled height. The REAR of the tow vehicle sits slightly lower than its uncoupled height, but higher than its height when coupled without weight distribution engaged.


Their setup instructions also say to aim for ~1/2 way between unloaded and loaded without WDH, but never to bring the front below the unloaded height.


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LarryL

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Posted: 06/14/18 06:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, I lowered the brackets on the ends of the bars to lower the front of the TV back to 36", the same as unloaded. I have a trip next week that will let me see how it feels.

Since I lost confidence in the Husky manual, let me ask about what I should grease before a trip. What I think it says is
1) I should grease the Hitch Ball and
2) I can grease the top of the spring bar brackets on the trailer and
3) I should not grease the hitch end brackets, the "trunnion plates".

Am I correct?

"Clean ball and coupler socket and coat ball lightly with grease."

"Keep lift brackets clean, and using a light lubrication on the lift bracket support surfaces to keep rust to a minimum is acceptable."

"The 3/4” trunnion hex bolts come lubricated from the factory re-lubricate if needed with bearing/axle grease. Do not apply lubrication to the friction surfaces of the top and bottom plates or on the top or bottom trunnion surfaces as this will reduce the built in friction sway feature."

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