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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 06/17/18 09:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you really want to get to the root of the issue, you are going to have to do some work !

First, get a 6V charger and charge each battery individually. This does not have to be a fancy multi-stage charger. Just leave each battery on the charge over night.

Second, label the batteries. Immediately after charging, check the voltage. WRITE IT DOWN. After that let each battery "rest", unattached to anything, for 24 hours. The voltages after charging and after rest needs to be about +/- 0.1V. If any are lower, they are on their way out.

Third, carefully CLEAN and inspect all cables and connections. Replace any that are suspect.

Fourth, get an amp-clamp meter. Many to chose from on Amazon for < $50. (I have a Uni-T UT210E.) You may want to consider installing a voltmeter and ampmeter (requires installing a shunt) for more accurate readings. Under $20 from Amazon.

If you are consuming more than about 0.100A when everything is off, you have a problem somewhere else.

Last, run some heavy load with no shore power so that you purposely discharge the batteries at least 10%. Check the voltage AT THE CONVERTER/CHARGE AND AT THE BATTERIES. Plug in to shore power and check those two voltages again. Anything more than about 0.100V and you have a cableing problem.

* This post was edited 06/17/18 10:01pm by theoldwizard1 *

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 06/17/18 11:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Katdaddy,

The smart chargers work rather poorly, usually not getting past 97% state of Charge. We need to get to 100% and that requires 14.8 volts for flooded jars.


Regards, Don
Full Time in a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

landyacht318

Near a large body of salty water

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Posted: 06/17/18 11:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do not believe the marketing.

Your Noco is NO genius, and 7.2 amps is a hideously small rate for four 6v GC-2s.

HOw long after you hook it up does it stay on before is says they batteries are full?

Determining 80% by voltage is unwise, even if rested, especially since you have no idea how close to fully charged you are able to get them.

A regular powermax is not going to hold them at 14.6v for long enough.The Noco likely does not ever go to 14.6v, and if it does, not for long.

And if your batteries are sulfated, which is likely, as they likey have never been fully charged, you are going to need to hold them at 14.8v for several hours, until amperage tapers to perhaps 3.5, and then get them up to as high as 16.2v until specifi gravity rises to the 1.275 range.

The OTC 4619 is a turket baster style glass hydrometer with a thermometer twhich will say how much to add or subtract from the reading depending on electrolyte temperature.

Unless your Noco is getting the batteries upto 16 volts or so during its restoration mumbojumbo magically marketed 37th charging stage, you will need to achieve 16v at the battery terminals by another method, to restore the capacity to the maximum potential remaining capacity of those batteries.

But if you do not, and just accept them for what they are now, they will continue to lose capacity at an increasing rate.

But you might still get a few years out of them and this 'could' be good enough.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 06/18/18 07:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You said Six Volt So They should be flooded wet. the proper way to test SOC is with a temperature compensated hydrometer. Voltage is only an indicator.

But you might try Equalization. It may be you need to overcharge for 15 minutes or so to stir things up.

A full computerized quality check by a Battery store.. That's the defining "State of battery" test.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 06/18/18 07:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Katdaddy wrote:

This charger is supposed to be a smart charger and has a repair cycle. I have run the batteries through the repair cycle twice, with no apparent luck. The hydrometer is a glass model with the float.


Understand your frustration. You are trying to do it right but don't have the right equipment.

This will do it for you. It does the regular three stage converter profile, similar to your Boondocker, BUT it also has a single stage, adjustable voltage mode, which is what you desperately need right now.

You can set it to 14.8 eg, and it will stay there till you change it (with a little screwdriver)
Once the batts are as full as they can get, you can set 16v and run that for a while to see if their SG will recover. You can Float them afterwards at 13.6.

You need a 2000w generator to run it at 60 amps. If you only have a 1000w gen, you can get a 35 amp version of the LK DO NOT GET anything but an LK--you already have the older type which does not have the adjustable voltage feature these newer LKs have.

https://www.amazon.com/Powermax-PM3-60LK........8592&sr=8-23&keywords=powermax+converter

You can get a better idea of battery charging by reading this. It helped me a lot.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Books_c_67.html

Here is how to operate the LK see para 10

http://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content........loads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf

* This post was edited 06/18/18 07:53am by BFL13 *


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI

westend

Shorewood, MN

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Posted: 06/18/18 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GC2 6V batteries love and need a higher voltage 14.8-> 15V until full charge is present. A float hydrometer is the best way to measure Specific Gravity and the best is made by Freas Glass Works.


'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 06/18/18 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

You can set it to 14.8 eg, and it will stay there till you change it (with a little screwdriver)

Okay, I skimmed over the PowerMax converter charger and I did not see anywhere that it could be adjusted to 14.8V. Am I missing something ?

Yes, it can be set to a constant 16.5, but boy you had better watch those batteries carefully !


(FYI - those who follow MeccioWander's posts know this is the same problem he has over come by building his own charger from 2 different 12V power supplies that he can "tune" to specific voltages. Not automatic, but the higher voltage portion is connected via a manual timer.)

BFL13

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Posted: 06/18/18 04:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:

BFL13 wrote:

You can set it to 14.8 eg, and it will stay there till you change it (with a little screwdriver)

Okay, I skimmed over the PowerMax converter charger and I did not see anywhere that it could be adjusted to 14.8V. Am I missing something ?

Yes, it can be set to a constant 16.5, but boy you had better watch those batteries carefully !


(FYI - those who follow MeccioWander's posts know this is the same problem he has over come by building his own charger from 2 different 12V power supplies that he can "tune" to specific voltages. Not automatic, but the higher voltage portion is connected via a manual timer.)


Yes you missed para 10 of the instructions for the LK that I linked.

Switch A-- move it to the right and now it is single stage, and use a little screwdriver like for glasses frames in the pot (Switch B)

You can set any voltage you like, but do it without the battery being connected. Just your voltmeter. Once your voltage is set, you connect to a battery and the voltage then seen on the connecting wires will be somewhere between the voltage you set and what the battery was at. Then the voltage rises with SOC until it reaches almost the same as what you set. Your meter might even show it at that voltage.

If you want to use the converter as a regular 3 stage, set the pot to 14.6 and THEN, move Switch A back to the left.

If you fiddle with the pot while Switch A is to the left, it will screw up all three of the voltages. You can fix that by moving the switch to the right, set 14.6 and move it back to the left.

Note--the left and right above is as with a proto-type LK I saw. The production model is probably the same.

Katdaddy

Petal, MS USA

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Posted: 06/18/18 06:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I appreciate everyones comments so far. Can someone recommend, by name a charger that will provide the high charging rate necessary to equalize and properly maintain the batteries?


Little by little, one travels far - J.R.R. Tolkien
There ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them. - Mark Twain

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 06/18/18 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Katdaddy wrote:

I appreciate everyones comments so far. Can someone recommend, by name a charger that will provide the high charging rate necessary to equalize and properly maintain the batteries?


Am I blocked or something? I did that at least once. [emoticon]

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