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Chevy 1500 vs 2500

Jim549
Explorer
Explorer
We currently are using a TV Silverado 1500. Our TT is a Heartland QB300 Pioneer. Without getting into weights, I was told by the dealership that our TV should handle our TT without issues.

We just got back to Michigan from Gatlinburg, TN. Our TV did not have an issue in the mountains as far as pulling, and maintaining a 60-mph speed, however the ride was horrible. Every time we hit a bump in the road, it seemed like the whole TV shook or bounced (it is the best I can describe it).

I told the DW that this little TV is not up to the task, but she said that it pulled up the hills just fine. I told her that if we didn’t get something bigger, then that was the last long trip I’d be taking towing the TT.

So, my question is, would a ¾ ton pickup with a trailer package improve the ride pulling a 30 foot TT (GVWR 9000)?

Any advice would be appreciated.
The Haights
Jim & Nancy
Bear (our little furry Shichon)
Home State: Michigan
HOC #3976
2017 Pioneer QB300
26 REPLIES 26

bartlettj
Explorer
Explorer
troubledwaters wrote:
Congratulations on the new truck, it is probably a better tow vehicle for that size trailer. But don't fool yourself, it is still going to ride rough, that 2500 has even stiffer springs (common sense 101 - stiffer springs does not equal smoother ride). That is the nature of the beast.


While my 2500HD rides a bit rougher when not towing than my Tahoe, it rides way better when towing because there's no lurching, bump steering, or porpoising. It is way less tiring to drive.

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
Jim549 wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:


On the WD setup, the real question is: What is the difference measured at the front wheel well between the unloaded empty ride height and the ride height with WD set up? While GM has various recomendations, my experience with GM trucks is you want the ride height to be as close to the same as possible, never lower, but maybe 1/4-1/2 inch higher with WD hooked up.

Don't worry about the back.


The front of my truck is just a tad over 1/4 inch higher when hooked up to the trailer. It was setup by the dealership and I double checked their setup once I got the trailer home.

Thanks for you comments and help.

Jim


wow!! good job by the dealer. your's is one of the few that looks to have been set up correctly. I'd stay with the 1/4" high.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

troubledwaters
Explorer II
Explorer II
Congratulations on the new truck, it is probably a better tow vehicle for that size trailer. But don't fool yourself, it is still going to ride rough, that 2500 has even stiffer springs (common sense 101 - stiffer springs does not equal smoother ride). That is the nature of the beast.

Jim549
Explorer
Explorer
ktmrfs wrote:


On the WD setup, the real question is: What is the difference measured at the front wheel well between the unloaded empty ride height and the ride height with WD set up? While GM has various recomendations, my experience with GM trucks is you want the ride height to be as close to the same as possible, never lower, but maybe 1/4-1/2 inch higher with WD hooked up.

Don't worry about the back.


The front of my truck is just a tad over 1/4 inch higher when hooked up to the trailer. It was setup by the dealership and I double checked their setup once I got the trailer home.

Thanks for you comments and help.

Jim
The Haights
Jim & Nancy
Bear (our little furry Shichon)
Home State: Michigan
HOC #3976
2017 Pioneer QB300

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
Jim549 wrote:
I would like to thank everyone for the helpful advice.

Just a couple of comments; The WD system was setup by the dealer. There is only 1/4 inch difference between the front and back of the truck. The front being higher. And when I mentioned dealership in my original posting, I was referring to the Chevy dealership service department.

Now, based on the advice I received from this thread, we (I) have decided a new 2500 is in order after the first of the year.


On the WD setup, the real question is: What is the difference measured at the front wheel well between the unloaded empty ride height and the ride height with WD set up? While GM has various recomendations, my experience with GM trucks is you want the ride height to be as close to the same as possible, never lower, but maybe 1/4-1/2 inch higher with WD hooked up.

Don't worry about the back.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Jim549 wrote:
I would like to thank everyone for the helpful advice.



Now, based on the advice I received from this thread, we (I) have decided a new 2500 is in order after the first of the year.


I have a feeling that you wanted a 2500 when you started this thread.:) What better place to get backup for I need a BIGGER TRUCK, than rv.net. However, for the size trailer, you have the right idea.

Jerry

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
Jim549 wrote:

So, my question is, would a ¾ ton pickup with a trailer package improve the ride pulling a 30 foot TT (GVWR 9000)?


The original question? Yes....physics and common sense.

Heavier weight, beefier frame, larger suspension components like springs etc. Heavy duty drive-line components. Higher weight capacity of axles and tires. Floating rear axle. Better braking with larger components. The list goes on and on.

You can put better tires on a 1/2 ton, better shocks, and a whole gaggle of suspension adds. That may get you where you want to be or feel you need to be. You can also put lipstick on a pig.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

Jim549
Explorer
Explorer
I would like to thank everyone for the helpful advice.

Just a couple of comments; The WD system was setup by the dealer. There is only 1/4 inch difference between the front and back of the truck. The front being higher. And when I mentioned dealership in my original posting, I was referring to the Chevy dealership service department.

Now, based on the advice I received from this thread, we (I) have decided a new 2500 is in order after the first of the year.
The Haights
Jim & Nancy
Bear (our little furry Shichon)
Home State: Michigan
HOC #3976
2017 Pioneer QB300

Maury82
Explorer
Explorer
owenssailor wrote:
We tow a similar sized trailer with a 2017 Chev 1500. The first thing I did to the truck was put on Bilstien shocks since the OEM ones seemed to allow too much bounce. I run the P tires at 44 rear and 40 front. The Equalizer hitch is set up to get the front end back down.
Good luck


I'm glad I wasn't as easily influenced and gullible as the OP, because unlike your response, most of the guys prodded him straight to the HD truck.

The OP can more than likely resolve most of his issues with LT tires and better shocks, or just buy a whole new vehicle.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Jim549 wrote:
We currently are using a TV Silverado 1500. Our TT is a Heartland QB300 Pioneer. Without getting into weights, I was told by the dealership that our TV should handle our TT without issues.




Sales folks normally have a low base salary and they must sell, sell, sell to make a decent wage with commissions that suppliment that low salarey...so understand that they will say/do anything to make a sale

Most times, just parroting what the customer wants to hear...







We just got back to Michigan from Gatlinburg, TN. Our TV did not have an issue in the mountains as far as pulling, and maintaining a 60-mph speed, however the ride was horrible. Every time we hit a bump in the road, it seemed like the whole TV shook or bounced (it is the best I can describe it).




All things engineered/designed has a specification with ratings/limits/etc...part of their CYA.

Most TV's 'can' tow just about anything, but the real issue/question is whether it is rated for that...

Those spec's are NOT for the good days when just about anything 'can' tow it...but...for the MR Murphy days out there...you were close to anyone of those Mr Murphy moments by your description...would your setup be able to MANHANDLE that situation if you needed to make severe measures to avoid something or any such situation?

At that moment, no time to go back to the store for properly sized systems/components/etc...nor re-setup. Either there spot on or not.

Think you are wise to look at the higher class TVs

All of the advice to 'up' components are band-aids...but...will they then be able to manhandle that Mr Murphy situation?

Suspect you already know, but are looking for reassurance that the lowest class TV can be made to manhandle that Mr Murphy moment...no one will ever know...until they have Mr Murphy cross their path with whatever stuff they have at that moment







I told the DW that this little TV is not up to the task, but she said that it pulled up the hills just fine. I told her that if we didn’t get something bigger, then that was the last long trip I’d be taking towing the TT.

So, my question is, would a ¾ ton pickup with a trailer package improve the ride pulling a 30 foot TT (GVWR 9000)?



There is only one person responsible for the setup and that is the driver. No amount of copies with the: "sure you can"..."been doing that for decades"...etc matters...

Those advisors have no skin in your game on these freebie forums. Nor will any of them pay for whatever issue you might have after taking their advice...

My advice is to do the simple math, go out and actually weigh your trailer, ready to go RV'ing, then find the ratings of whatever TV you want to use.

First, decide if you believe in the OEM's ratings system or not...if not...then is discussion is academic...if yes, find the OEMs ratings and do your simple math...



Any advice would be appreciated.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Only thing I don't like about the 1500 Chev 6 speed, is mine has a TQ converter shudder it feels like in the first couple gears taking off uphill with a heavy trailer if I'm getting on it pretty hard. Never experienced this with my 5.0 6 speed F150 I had several years back.
Otherwise, it'll rip a 14klb flatbed trailer to well over the speed limit on an on ramp without issue.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
if the 1500 factory shocks are anything like 2500 factory shocks, they are NOT anywhere near optimal for towing or loaded riding, more for unloaded, even then marginal. On my 04.5 2500HD I replaced the factory shocks with bilsteins at 10K miles, on the 2015.5 at 500 miles. the difference in ride, loaded and unloaded and towing was very noticeable. Especially towing the compression and rebound damping on the bilsteins is much more controlled giving a much better ride.

Now that said, our 2500's tow a 9000lb trailer with 1500lbs on the tongue. with 3 people and stuff in the bed and the trailer hooked up, I go over the scales at 10,000 on the 2015.5 on the truck. right at GVWR. the 2004 scaled and 9700, 100 over the 9600GVWR.

First, make sure your WD hitch is adjusted properly. and IMHO the trailer size is very marginal for a 1500.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Our TV did not have an issue in the mountains as far as pulling, and maintaining a 60-mph speed, however the ride was horrible. Every time we hit a bump in the road, it seemed like the whole TV shook or bounced (it is the best I can describe it).

I use the wifes '16 1500 4wd crew cab short bed 142" wb truck when in and out of muddy worksites pulling a bumper pull 10k car hauler with around 8200-8300 lbs on the trailers axles and 980-1020 lb hitch weight on the truck. I notice much the same when coming on and exiting many bridges at highway speeds. Suspension is simply to soft.
I also use my 2500 Dodge/Cummins 2wd short bed 142" wb pulling the same load on the trailer. There is no bucking and a very smooth ride.

You won't regret upgrading to a 2500 truck for towing 8k-10k trailers.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

owenssailor
Explorer
Explorer
We tow a similar sized trailer with a 2017 Chev 1500. The first thing I did to the truck was put on Bilstien shocks since the OEM ones seemed to allow too much bounce. I run the P tires at 44 rear and 40 front. The Equalizer hitch is set up to get the front end back down.
Good luck
2011 Jayco 28U
2012 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 6 spd 3.42 (sold)
2017 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 8 spd 3.42
Equal-i-Zer 1400/14000
RotoChocks