Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tow Vehicles: Chevy 1500 vs 2500
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 > Chevy 1500 vs 2500

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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 07/07/18 10:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jim549 wrote:

Our TV has a standard Chev truck bed (79.2”). I guess they do make a long bed (97.6”).

As far as the shocks, the Chev is a 2016 so the shocks should be good.

The tires are P265/65R18. So when you say soft P rated tires, is this what you are referring to?

And thanks for the replies…


Not the wheelbase, you have the second longest wheelbase you can buy in a pickup.
Yes your tires are soft. I tow those weights with the same truck as yours all the time at work. Still have P tires, no helper springs and all the weight is on the tongue.
It tows fine, but a long trailer bumper pull trailer with decent tongue weight is like a huge see-saw.
Your wife is right, nothing wrong with the truck that proper tires, and proper weight distribution won't help.
However some people think they shouldn't notice a trailer behind them, hence all the add ons and wdh and sway control, etc devices. That stuff will make it better, but it's still a trailer, IMO.
And fwiw, same trailers I'm talking about at work bounce the same behind HD cc/lb pickups and the new gassers don't have much more towing power either. Only difference is they already come with good tires and are built for significantly more payload.


03 Arctic Fox 860
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 07/07/18 10:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Having your wdh properly set up will help the front end bouncing considerably, although realize from the trucks standpoint, it's towing the same size trailer. It just feels better because it effectively move the truck end of the see saw farther forward.
You'll hear that you don't have enough truck for the trailer. Lots of ole codgers here that believe everything they hear and by nature, the older you get, the more paranoid and conservative you get, in general.
For your purposes, were only really talking duty cycle though. Truck is rated for what you're doing. How long it will doo that without significant additional wear and tear is the question.
If you're a weekend warrior and most of the trucks service is daily driver duties, you're good. If your towing that trailer 10-20k miles a year then I'd get a HD if you're expecting max service life out of the drivetrain.

valhalla360

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Posted: 07/07/18 01:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you really love the truck, you can upgrade tires and suspension an make it better but jumping up to a 3/4 ton will be even better.


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owenssailor

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Posted: 07/07/18 10:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We tow a similar sized trailer with a 2017 Chev 1500. The first thing I did to the truck was put on Bilstien shocks since the OEM ones seemed to allow too much bounce. I run the P tires at 44 rear and 40 front. The Equalizer hitch is set up to get the front end back down.
Good luck


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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 07/08/18 06:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Our TV did not have an issue in the mountains as far as pulling, and maintaining a 60-mph speed, however the ride was horrible. Every time we hit a bump in the road, it seemed like the whole TV shook or bounced (it is the best I can describe it).

I use the wifes '16 1500 4wd crew cab short bed 142" wb truck when in and out of muddy worksites pulling a bumper pull 10k car hauler with around 8200-8300 lbs on the trailers axles and 980-1020 lb hitch weight on the truck. I notice much the same when coming on and exiting many bridges at highway speeds. Suspension is simply to soft.
I also use my 2500 Dodge/Cummins 2wd short bed 142" wb pulling the same load on the trailer. There is no bucking and a very smooth ride.

You won't regret upgrading to a 2500 truck for towing 8k-10k trailers.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
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ktmrfs

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Posted: 07/08/18 09:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if the 1500 factory shocks are anything like 2500 factory shocks, they are NOT anywhere near optimal for towing or loaded riding, more for unloaded, even then marginal. On my 04.5 2500HD I replaced the factory shocks with bilsteins at 10K miles, on the 2015.5 at 500 miles. the difference in ride, loaded and unloaded and towing was very noticeable. Especially towing the compression and rebound damping on the bilsteins is much more controlled giving a much better ride.

Now that said, our 2500's tow a 9000lb trailer with 1500lbs on the tongue. with 3 people and stuff in the bed and the trailer hooked up, I go over the scales at 10,000 on the 2015.5 on the truck. right at GVWR. the 2004 scaled and 9700, 100 over the 9600GVWR.

First, make sure your WD hitch is adjusted properly. and IMHO the trailer size is very marginal for a 1500.


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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 07/08/18 11:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Only thing I don't like about the 1500 Chev 6 speed, is mine has a TQ converter shudder it feels like in the first couple gears taking off uphill with a heavy trailer if I'm getting on it pretty hard. Never experienced this with my 5.0 6 speed F150 I had several years back.
Otherwise, it'll rip a 14klb flatbed trailer to well over the speed limit on an on ramp without issue.

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 07/08/18 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jim549 wrote:

We currently are using a TV Silverado 1500. Our TT is a Heartland QB300 Pioneer. Without getting into weights, I was told by the dealership that our TV should handle our TT without issues.


Sales folks normally have a low base salary and they must sell, sell, sell to make a decent wage with commissions that suppliment that low salarey...so understand that they will say/do anything to make a sale

Most times, just parroting what the customer wants to hear...






We just got back to Michigan from Gatlinburg, TN. Our TV did not have an issue in the mountains as far as pulling, and maintaining a 60-mph speed, however the ride was horrible. Every time we hit a bump in the road, it seemed like the whole TV shook or bounced (it is the best I can describe it).


All things engineered/designed has a specification with ratings/limits/etc...part of their CYA.

Most TV's 'can' tow just about anything, but the real issue/question is whether it is rated for that...

Those spec's are NOT for the good days when just about anything 'can' tow it...but...for the MR Murphy days out there...you were close to anyone of those Mr Murphy moments by your description...would your setup be able to MANHANDLE that situation if you needed to make severe measures to avoid something or any such situation?

At that moment, no time to go back to the store for properly sized systems/components/etc...nor re-setup. Either there spot on or not.

Think you are wise to look at the higher class TVs

All of the advice to 'up' components are band-aids...but...will they then be able to manhandle that Mr Murphy situation?

Suspect you already know, but are looking for reassurance that the lowest class TV can be made to manhandle that Mr Murphy moment...no one will ever know...until they have Mr Murphy cross their path with whatever stuff they have at that moment






I told the DW that this little TV is not up to the task, but she said that it pulled up the hills just fine. I told her that if we didn’t get something bigger, then that was the last long trip I’d be taking towing the TT.

So, my question is, would a ¾ ton pickup with a trailer package improve the ride pulling a 30 foot TT (GVWR 9000)?

There is only one person responsible for the setup and that is the driver. No amount of copies with the: "sure you can"..."been doing that for decades"...etc matters...

Those advisors have no skin in your game on these freebie forums. Nor will any of them pay for whatever issue you might have after taking their advice...

My advice is to do the simple math, go out and actually weigh your trailer, ready to go RV'ing, then find the ratings of whatever TV you want to use.

First, decide if you believe in the OEM's ratings system or not...if not...then is discussion is academic...if yes, find the OEMs ratings and do your simple math...


Any advice would be appreciated.



-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Maury82

Ohio

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Posted: 07/08/18 02:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

owenssailor wrote:

We tow a similar sized trailer with a 2017 Chev 1500. The first thing I did to the truck was put on Bilstien shocks since the OEM ones seemed to allow too much bounce. I run the P tires at 44 rear and 40 front. The Equalizer hitch is set up to get the front end back down.
Good luck


I'm glad I wasn't as easily influenced and gullible as the OP, because unlike your response, most of the guys prodded him straight to the HD truck.

The OP can more than likely resolve most of his issues with LT tires and better shocks, or just buy a whole new vehicle.

Jim549

Michigan

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Posted: 07/09/18 04:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would like to thank everyone for the helpful advice.

Just a couple of comments; The WD system was setup by the dealer. There is only 1/4 inch difference between the front and back of the truck. The front being higher. And when I mentioned dealership in my original posting, I was referring to the Chevy dealership service department.

Now, based on the advice I received from this thread, we (I) have decided a new 2500 is in order after the first of the year.

* This post was edited 07/09/18 04:31am by Jim549 *


The Haights
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2017 Pioneer QB300


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