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KD4UPL

Swoope, VA

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Posted: 07/08/18 01:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fan clutch and coolant flush are good ideas. What do you mean "set the RPM at 3,000"? If your heavily loaded and going up hill that is a bit low on RPMs. You may simply be lugging it to deatb,thus creating extra heat. Look up where peak torque is on your engine. I suspect it's over 4,000. That's more where you should be running if really working it hard.

morphrider

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Posted: 07/08/18 03:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an 01 with the 6.0. As stated above, don't lug it, these are high rpm for the hp. We assume you are using the tow haul mode?

Pure Diesel

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Posted: 07/08/18 04:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the cooling stack. Has it ever been cleaned out? Over time, miles, location, debris and bugs can block the air flow going through.

jkilroy

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Posted: 07/08/18 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seamutt wrote:

It should not overheat, get the cooling system flushed and inspected. Also never use tap water only distilled water. Tap water will leave behind deposits inhibiting efficient cooling.


It’s not overheating just getting warmer than normal. As soon as I turn a/c off it’s fine. Temps go back to normal pulling up incline.


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LIKE2BUILD

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Posted: 07/08/18 10:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pure Diesel wrote:

Check the cooling stack. Has it ever been cleaned out? Over time, miles, location, debris and bugs can block the air flow going through.

Yep, make sure the cooling stack is clear. Also as mentioned, make sure your fan clutch is working properly and flush the coolant system. If you’ve never serviced the coolant you could have sludge that’s reducing flow. Don’t go to a cooler thermostat, this will throw off the computer.

When you’re climbing a hill you should head a roar like a siren when the fan clutch locks up. If you don’t hear that it probably means your clutch is bad.


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Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 07/09/18 02:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buy a diesel....better yet get two......

Why not start at the other end of the spectrum. Thermostats go bad be it sticking open or closed, or loose their calibration.

Assuming its OEM its 15 years old. A $15 part and 15 minutes. On a GM you can actually get to the stat without removing half of the other parts. GMs have more than enough cooling capacity and should not go above 205, mostly should stay @ 195, no matter how hard your pushing them or what the load.

Ive ran a few GM trucks over 200K and beyond 10 years and have yet to flush a radiator or change a fan, the thermostats however have been changed on every one I have ever owned.

I highly doubt the rad is plugged up or the fan is going bad....

Another thing is where are you coming up with the temp reading? The OEM gauge with stepper motors? Those are innacurate when new and in the early 00's gauge clusters and bad stepper motors were a known GM problem.

On second thought, run out and buy a diesel lol.

garyp4951

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Posted: 07/09/18 06:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would look an electric radiator/condenser fan that comes on only when the ac is switched on, or put it on a manual switch, if you have room for it.

laknox

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Posted: 07/09/18 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jkilroy wrote:

I’m towing a 7500 lb. Cougar 28SGS. The truck I have is a 03 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 with 4.10 rear. This rig tows fine in cooler weather with no A/C and fairly flat to moderate hills. When I pull in decent mountains and it’s hot the trans temp climbs past 200, and coolant goes to 230 range. As soon as I turn off a/c everything is fine. Has plenty of power I must say. I usually set rpm to 3000 and let it run.

So question is can I do anything to truck to help the problems? Can I put a cooler thermostat in it? I’ve already added a second trans cooler. It helped a little. A diesel is in my future but I’d like to pay off camper first if possible. They are so expensive.


All the other guys have given you excellent advice. On the RPM, though, you need to run that up into the 4's, that's where a gas engine makes the most power and will work "easier". At 3k, you're likely lugging the engine some and it will work "harder", even at a lower RPM. I've seen this with my own eyes on a trip with an old truck pulling a 3-axle GN up over Cajon Pass and Tehachapi. Not only did the engine run cooler at a higher RPM, mileage =improved= slightly. This was with a 600 RPM difference on a Turbo 400 with GearVendor O/D running the same gear with the O/D on and off. Don't be afraid to run the RPM up and hold it there in whatever gear you can hold. Downshift if you have to to keep that RPM.

I just checked, and that engine (2003 6.0l Vortec) specs at 300 h.p. at 4400 RPM and 360 lb ft torque at 4000 RPM. So, run her up to 4400 to get max hp.

Lyle


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jkilroy

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Posted: 07/09/18 03:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Getting temp reading from factory gauge. Got to 220 today. Fan is working I saw it when I checked another issue. I think my trailer brake was bad. Made horrible noise.

I’m going to change thermostat and get radiator flushed and go from there.

jkilroy

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Posted: 07/09/18 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m good with 3000 rpm. 4000 rpm seems a bit high but I’ll give it a try. Didn’t know that.

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