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 > Brake controller gain..

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falconbrother

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Posted: 07/09/18 02:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recently got back from a week in the mountains. Before I left I adjusted my brakes on the trailer. I have noticed that it doesn't much matter where I set the gain on the controller, the brakes feel about the same. When I use the hand controller the trailer brakes grab as they should. Coming down a mountain they feel good and grab as they should. I discovered that I had the gain all the way up about halfway through the trip. I bought the controller brand new but, it wasn't the latest technology. It's probably 10 year old technology. I'm wondering if there's an issue with the internal sensor in the controller. It has a setting on the side to get the internal sensor level relative to the road. I have the controller mounted at about a 25 degree angle.

old guy

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Posted: 07/09/18 03:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

need to know a few more things, what controller, what TT

ScottG

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Posted: 07/09/18 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have a Takonsha "Voyager", I have found they get weaker as they age.
After taking gone apart it makes sense. The component that regulates energy to the brakes is rated at only 1.5 amps and has a small heat sink. It isn't nearly up to the job of carrying the 8~10 amps needed so it dies.


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mike-s

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Posted: 07/09/18 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The maximum may be limited by the wiring. Gain sets the maximum amperes of current the controller will try to send the brakes at full braking.

These are rough, but reasonable numbers - every trailer is different. Maximum amps for braking on a tandem axle is around 15A. To deliver 15A @ 13V requires a system resistance of under 0.87 ohms. The brakes themselves are most of that (~0.85).

Then there's the wiring and connections.

For full current, they can't add up to more than 0.02 ohms. To make a long story short, to get full braking, it really needs to be wired with separate 12 gauge runs from the tongue to both the right and left side brakes, which is uncommon.

Point is, any controller setting beyond what the wiring allows may make very little difference. If the wiring can only allow 10 amps, telling the controller to provide 15 is an exercise in futility. Setting the gain (max amps) won't really make a lot of difference if the wiring isn't up to snuff, although you will get to maximum braking sooner.

falconbrother

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Posted: 07/10/18 06:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ScottG wrote:

If you have a Takonsha "Voyager", I have found they get weaker as they age.
After taking gone apart it makes sense. The component that regulates energy to the brakes is rated at only 1.5 amps and has a small heat sink. It isn't nearly up to the job of carrying the 8~10 amps needed so it dies.


I believe that's the exact one I have. I guess I need to replace it. Hopefully I can find another plug and play controller that will work with the existing harness that plugs right into the GM circuit.

goducks10

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Posted: 07/10/18 08:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A Tekonsha should all be the same for it's plug end. At least thats what a sales guy told me when I bought a Primus IQ. I was able to use the same plug and play harness with a P3 as with the Primus IQ. So I guess he was right as far as those two controllers go.

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