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 > Fiberglass to fix shower base

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Oldcow

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Posted: 07/10/18 04:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a cracked shower base that is causing a leak in my Outback 300rb. There is little support under the shower which has caused with flexing over time a crack. Has anyone had success fixing something like this with fiberglass? I have never used it but would like to repair without having to buy a new base. The first step will be to reinforce underneath to eliminate the flex.

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NMDriver2

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Posted: 07/10/18 04:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kitty Hair will fix it.link


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naturist

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Posted: 07/10/18 05:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Be sure to use epoxy resin rather than polyester.





Oldcow

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Posted: 07/10/18 06:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

naturist wrote:

Be sure to use epoxy resin rather than polyester.


Thanks for the suggestions guys. Tonight I jammed a 2X4 underneath and it made quite a difference. I also used some silicone and will see if this works. If not this is plan B. May I ask why epoxy vs polyester?

Oldcow

old guy

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Posted: 07/10/18 10:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

my first TT had this problem also. be sure you pt plenty of support under there. one may not be enough. they make fiberglass you can sand down so it doesn't cut your feet

#1nobby

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Posted: 07/10/18 10:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[quote=Oldcow] I also used some silicone and will see if this works.
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Well I hope that works because it's hard to find anything to stick to a siliconed surface.

Oldcow

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Posted: 07/11/18 05:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just assumed I would remove the silicone if it does not work?

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Posted: 07/11/18 05:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

old guy wrote:

my first TT had this problem also. be sure you pt plenty of support under there. one may not be enough. they make fiberglass you can sand down so it doesn't cut your feet


Good to know thanks.

Oldcow

valhalla360

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Posted: 07/11/18 06:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Too late for you, but for others reading this: silicone was a poor choice. It's near impossible to get it all removed (even if it looks like it's gone) and nothing sticks to it.

Functionally fixing it is easy. Use a marine grade epoxy (not the putty stuff you find in the automotive aisle). You can use the fiberglass cloth from the auto aisle. READ THE DIRECTIONS. It's not hard but lots of people mess up the process. Google West System, they have awesome documentation and guides. Brush on a thin layer then lay out the cloth over the crack extending beyond the crack. Then brush on more until it is clear with no bubbles (it's messy and sticky so plan on how to keep it from getting everywhere). When it is cured, sand off any stray fibers sticking up (they will stab you otherwise)

Functionally, you can put it on the top but it will look ugly. If you can pull the tub and do it on the bottom it will look better but the crack will still be there with the layer underneath stopping the leak.

If you want it to look really good, you need to grind out and feather in the crack and then re-gell coat. Unless you are already good at fiber glassing, probably cheaper and easier to just buy a new tub and install it. The problem is it's thin to start with so getting a little crazy with the sanding and you can go right thru.

PS: This all assumes you provide better support or it will just repeat.


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Oldcow

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Posted: 07/11/18 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

Too late for you, but for others reading this: silicone was a poor choice. It's near impossible to get it all removed (even if it looks like it's gone) and nothing sticks to it.

Functionally fixing it is easy. Use a marine grade epoxy (not the putty stuff you find in the automotive aisle). You can use the fiberglass cloth from the auto aisle. READ THE DIRECTIONS. It's not hard but lots of people mess up the process. Google West System, they have awesome documentation and guides. Brush on a thin layer then lay out the cloth over the crack extending beyond the crack. Then brush on more until it is clear with no bubbles (it's messy and sticky so plan on how to keep it from getting everywhere). When it is cured, sand off any stray fibers sticking up (they will stab you otherwise)

Functionally, you can put it on the top but it will look ugly. If you can pull the tub and do it on the bottom it will look better but the crack will still be there with the layer underneath stopping the leak.

If you want it to look really good, you need to grind out and feather in the crack and then re-gell coat. Unless you are already good at fiber glassing, probably cheaper and easier to just buy a new tub and install it. The problem is it's thin to start with so getting a little crazy with the sanding and you can go right thru.

PS: This all assumes you provide better support or it will just repeat.


Thanks this is very helpful. If the silicone doesn't stop the leak, I'll do my best to remove it and use your suggestions (any suggestions how?). The crack is hairline and about 4 inches so perhaps if I cover it well beyond the 4 inches i will be good. It doesn't have to be perfect, as long as the leak stops. I did add support underneath which reduced the flex by about 90%.

Oldcow

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