cardtarget

Durham, NC, USA

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So, looking at 2012-2015 large Class C's... most are in the $55k-$70k range at dealers. How much is their anticipated markup?
What should a cash buyer be expected to reasonably pay for a class C where the (big) dealer is asking $60k?
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troubledwaters

Potomac

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If you're buying used, check prices on NADA.com
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Lwiddis

Bishop, California

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“Cash” isn’t necessarily the avenue to the best deal. Bank/finance company rebates to the dealer are sometimes more attractive to him/her. Counterintuitive. You can payoff the loan anytime.
2015 Winnebago 2101DS TT & Tahoe LTZ, 300 watts WindyNation solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL flagpole for US flag. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
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Jayco-noslide

Galesburg,Il., USA

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Yes, check out the book value. Dealers often jack up the asking prices; more than private sellers. Also might depend on how long the unit has been for sale. My thought is that there is no harm in offering low so you might consider offering well under book value and as much as 30% below asking price. I know it's a car, but just bought a 17 ford focus priced at $20000 for 169000. Bought a used Class C for $23000 that private party was asking $25000 but he had dropped from a much higher asking price, maybe near $30000.
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cardtarget

Durham, NC, USA

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So, asking $60k. NADA says $55k high end, $45k low end. Sells for closer to $55k??
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Lwiddis

Bishop, California

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Dealer didn’t pay $45 for it. Offer $45 OTD and be ready to walk.
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mowermech

Billings, MT

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If buying used from a dealer, please be aware that some dealers will list everything they can as an "extra cost option", even if the manufacturer lists it as "standard equipment"! One of the dealers here is known for doing that. Once I realized it, I have never returned to his establishment.
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Mich F

Plantation, Fl

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If you can find the original MSRP of whatever vehicle you are looking at (NADA might be right) and figure that 25% to 30% off that could have, or should have been what the original owner paid for it when new. Depreciation per year is a guess (lots of different ideas on that).
I think most Class Cs in the age and size you are looking should sell for somewhere in the 40s and 50s. Of course condition plays a big part in what they're worth. I paid about 60 for mine new. It might be worth mid 40s now ?
As for NADA values my MH was almost 2 years old before their value for it got down to what I had paid for it when new.
2014 Itasca Spirit 31K Class C
2016 Mazda CX5 on Acme tow dolly- 4 trips ~ 5,800 mi
Now 2017 RWD F150 with a drive shaft disconnect
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midnightsadie

ohio

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look every where for a rv about the same set up,see what there selling for ,try google craigs list rv trader. and don,t tell them your paying cash. keep that till you have there out the door price. then get up and start for the door , knock a few grand off that price. and as your leaving tell them to give you a call, when they meet your price, as you have others to look at. nothing makes me feel better than to see a salesmen,s face as he is about to loose a commsion check.
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ndrorder

Southwest

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A trusted loan officer has told me that most banks will loan up to the average retail value given in the NADA guide for your area. Tells me that is what the vehicle is worth and anything more is giving money away. Anything less is money in your pocket. Make the first offer at low retail and negotiate up from there, but never go higher than average retail. Dealer will have all kinds of reasons why you should pay more. The simple response is that my bank says it is only worth average retail and these issues with the vehicle (which you provide) bring the value down from there. It's an RV - there is always issues.
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2011 Four Winds Chateau 23U
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