Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Problem with electric side of water heater
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Problem with electric side of water heater

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/11/18 09:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bob213 wrote:

I rechecked the outside switch the correct way by grounding to water heater and I do have power. From there I have no power to black wire at element. From the diagram above I would have to assume that my t'stat is bad even though it is not burned thru. Should I replace that next?


So with switch closed do you have 120V AC at top t-stat and then at bottom t-stat (black wire)....and did you push the button on top t-stat to reset it?

[image]


Notice the connecting wire is burnt thru on 120V AC side


IF High temp t-stat (top) needs reset then normal t-stat (bottom) is suspect...should open at 130*F
If it doesn't then high opens at 170*F shutting down all heating until manual reset
Replace t-stat set.


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

bob213

Fresno, CA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/11/18 09:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I haven't checked for power at the t'stat. I have a #232306 t'stat. That is correct for 120v..right? Gas side works fine. I have pushed reset without success. Wire shows burned spot but is intact. I will check for power tomorrow and replace if none there. One lead to black wire and ground other like I did for switch?


You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand

donn0128

Pronounced Ore-gun

Senior Member

Joined: 04/21/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/11/18 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Due to poor design the wires are prone to chaffing and shorting out between the switch and temp pack. Very carefully pull the switch and look at the wires. I had mine burn at the switch, then a second time rub thru the insulation and short out behindmthe sheet metal. No fun rewiring the darn things.


Don,Lorri,and Charlie Bear 2016
8 years OSP Camp Host
The Other Dallas


Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/11/18 10:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bob213 wrote:

I haven't checked for power at the t'stat. I have a #232306 t'stat. That is correct for 120v..right? Gas side works fine. I have pushed reset without success. Wire shows burned spot but is intact. I will check for power tomorrow and replace if none there. One lead to black wire and ground other like I did for switch?


Yes and Yes


With switch ON top black wire should be hot (bad switch if not)
Then with water temp cold (below 100*F) the bottom wire will be hot if t-stats are closed

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 12/18/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/11/18 10:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Old-Biscuit,

Mine is a Dometic from 2005.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

On mine there was a relay. During the course of disassembly the relay started working again. The switch inside the RV was, on mine, 12 volt.

It took 90 minutes--and I did replace the element since that is what I thought had gone bad. They sure as heck did not make it easy to be serviced.


That sounds like an Atwood water heater.DC Relay and element on backside of tank
Suburban has a similar model...."DEL"....uses DC Relay but element is easy to access in outside compartment


OP has a "DE" model....direct 120V AC to element



Regards, Don
Full Time in a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/12/18 12:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Hi Old-Biscuit,

Mine is a Dometic from 2005.


You mean Atwood......Dometic didn't acquire Atwood until 2014

Atwood started in 1909 as Vacuum Machine Company by 2 brothers
Made their 'name' in the automotive business with the “universal rubber door bumper” which put an end to door rattles in early automobiles along with door hinges & seat adjusters

Got into the RV market in 1936....then bought out Bowen Company in 1964 which was an RV water heater mfg.
Trailer jacks, surge brakes, Wedgewood ovens, Hydroflame furnaces, Fan-Tastic Vent company....one company after the other until Dometic took them over.

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

Senior Member

Joined: 09/04/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/12/18 06:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I really thought ours, a Suburban SW6DE, needed a 120 Element. I wanted a lower wattage to let it run more of the time in summer with A/C on 30A, so I replaced it. Thing still did NOT work. Turned out to be a burned connection in one of those "punchdown" splice boxes they use on RV's and Trailers. Our Black (hot) side carried 120VAC from Breaker, through Indoor Switch, Outdoor Switch, and Thermal Cutoff to the Element. Just no White (Neutral). I was lucky. Jayco made the connection at the box on the heater itself, then to the Punch Box on the kitchen floor inside the Cabinet with the Heater in it. A sorry Box, but at least I could get at it to repair. All I did was Remove, Gut Contacts and Plastic out of it, making it a Junction Box. Then twisted and Wire Nutted the connection. OK since.


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

bob213

Fresno, CA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/12/18 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Followed Old-Biscuit's directions and even though the t'stat wire was not burned thru or melted it was not good. Replaced it and I'm back to electric hot water. Thank you to everyone for your input.

bob213

Fresno, CA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/12/18 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:


With switch ON top black wire should be hot (bad switch if not)
Then with water temp cold (below 100*F) the bottom wire will be hot if t-stats are closed


Just a follow-up.
With switch on I had power to bottom NOT top of t'stat. Replaced t'stat and now have power to top and bottom. Did factory wire it backwards? It's worked that way for 4 years.
Do I need to switch wires?

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/12/18 02:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bob213 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


With switch ON top black wire should be hot (bad switch if not)
Then with water temp cold (below 100*F) the bottom wire will be hot if t-stats are closed


Just a follow-up.
With switch on I had power to bottom NOT top of t'stat. Replaced t'stat and now have power to top and bottom. Did factory wire it backwards? It's worked that way for 4 years.
Do I need to switch wires?


Yes it is backwards

In the big scheme of things NOT a real issue

Wired to top first is to stop the AC at t-stats should normal t-stat fail and high temp t-stat open/trip

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Problem with electric side of water heater
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2018 CWI, Inc. © 2018 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS