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Is A/C on GFCI circuit

TexasUltra
Explorer
Explorer
I was running on my generator when I tried to plug a small air compressor into the outlet in my exterior storage bay. When I did, the compressor started for a milli-second and didn't run any more. All the breakers appeared to be OK, but I re-set them any way. When I went inside I noticed the A/C was off. It had been on and running fine a few minutes earlier. I checked the GFCI plug by the sink and it would not trip or re-set. I'll change the GFCI plug tomorrow but my question is...would the A/C be on the GFCI circuit?
2015 Ford F-350 6.4 Power Stroke 4x4
2002 Excursion 7.3l PowerStroke (retired)
1991 Fleetwood Prowler 26 (SOLD)
2006 Weekend Warrior FS2300
2006 FLHTCUI UltraClassic Vivid Black
2000 FLSTF FatBoy Vivid Black
1995 EZ Go W/lift, mudders, and camo'd
29 REPLIES 29

red31
Explorer
Explorer
I sure most have seen the window units in the aliner type trailers or the window units sticking out the back of a ole caned ham, 15A circuit!

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Dusty,

Yes boxes were installed. It is an up to code installation.

Dusty R wrote:


Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.

Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi wa8yxm,

I could not agree more.

I replaced all but one of the outlets in my RV with good quality screw terminal type ones.

Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.

wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Doug,

The wire is fine. wa8yxm was suggesting that the "stab" connectors are less than splendid. I agree with him. For a 100 watt load they are fine--but lets try an induction cooker--or a heater. For those purposes they are not well suited.

I replaced all but one of my outlets with good quality screw terminal ones. I recommend that to anyone who wishes to run a high load device.

I also added a dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen area. That makes it easy to have the toaster, induction cooker, and coffee pot all powered at the same time without over loading the OEM 15 amp outlet.

dougrainer wrote:

3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"


dougrainer wrote:
1. 99% of RV AC's require a 20 amp.

2. Your "professional opinion"?????? You are a retired State Employee. That makes you an expert on NOTHING, especially RV's.

3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug


Absolutely, on all points ... X2. ๐Ÿ˜„
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"

FOr 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units. I'd say that is likely true.

But they make some smaller units that might well take a 15.. Don't know as I don't have one. (I have twin 15Ks)

However I'd be interested in knowing if the problem is;
1 Breaker on generator
2: Breaker on Inverter or sub panel
3: Burned connection.

NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .


1. 99% of RV AC's require a 20 amp.
2. Your "professional opinion"?????? You are a retired State Employee. That makes you an expert on NOTHING, especially RV's.
3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug

Big_Love
Explorer
Explorer
My A Frame trailer has a Dometic Cool Cat A/C-heat pump rated at 10.5 BTU that runs on 15A breaker. It pulls 11A cooling and 9A heating on 120v.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi wa8yxm,

I could not agree more.

I replaced all but one of the outlets in my RV with good quality screw terminal type ones.

wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"

FOr 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units. I'd say that is likely true.

But they make some smaller units that might well take a 15.. Don't know as I don't have one. (I have twin 15Ks)

However I'd be interested in knowing if the problem is;
1 Breaker on generator
2: Breaker on Inverter or sub panel
3: Burned connection.

NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

TexasUltra
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks ALL! It was the breaker on the GenSet. :S
2015 Ford F-350 6.4 Power Stroke 4x4
2002 Excursion 7.3l PowerStroke (retired)
1991 Fleetwood Prowler 26 (SOLD)
2006 Weekend Warrior FS2300
2006 FLHTCUI UltraClassic Vivid Black
2000 FLSTF FatBoy Vivid Black
1995 EZ Go W/lift, mudders, and camo'd

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
pianotuna wrote:
My 13500 Dometic when first starting draws approximately 1200 watts. At 115 volts that is 10.43 amps. At 107 volts that is 11.22 amps. It does draw more as the day grows hotter and the run times increase.

Code suggests 80% for continuous loads. 80% of 15 amps is 12.


You are confusing amp draw per run time. NO correlation at all. What you posted about VOLTAGE is the problem. LOWER AC voltage the higher the amp draw. Has NOTHING to do with the AC unit. They are spec'ed at 120 volts. At 120 volts and a spec of say 14.1 amps(hi/cool) and it is 95 degrees outside, the Unit will NEVER pull more than the 14.1 amps regardless of how long it runs, as long as all parameters of the unit are clean. If the line voltage drops(very common at CG's) the amp draw will increase. AND, the line voltage that is below 115 will increase the likelihood of possible damage to the AC unit. Then people complain about what a lousy maker Dometic and RVP are because there units failed from continued low voltage running. Doug

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
My 13500 Dometic when first starting draws approximately 1200 watts. At 115 volts that is 10.43 amps. At 107 volts that is 11.22 amps. It does draw more as the day grows hotter and the run times increase.

Code suggests 80% for continuous loads. 80% of 15 amps is 12.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Ozlander
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Dusty R wrote:
If a roof AC unite is wired with #14ga. wire do NOT move that wire to a 20 amp breaker.


Any A/C wired with 14 gauge would not be to code, it must be 12 gauge and that 12 gauge circuit must be protected with a 20 amp breaker.

Hello, we're talking about an RV built by the cheeepest builder in the cheeepest way.
Ozlander

06 Yukon XL
2001 Trail-Lite 7253

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
SoundGuy wrote:
Dusty R wrote:
If a roof AC unite is wired with #14ga. wire do NOT move that wire to a 20 amp breaker.


Any A/C wired with 14 gauge would not be to code, it must be 12 gauge and that 12 gauge circuit must be protected with a 20 amp breaker.


Not completely correct

It is legal to use a breaker smaller than wire limit, but not over the wire limit

If the unit in question only draws 12 amps, it is legal to use a 15 amp breaker on 12ga wire

I've only seen 14ga used in single dwelling residential lighting circuits

All outlets are on 12ga with 20 amp breakers

I know my a/C units are on 12GA wire, and 20 amp breakers

breakers are there to prevent the wire from overheating and starting a fire, you 'can' use a breaker less than the wire rating, as long as it is more than the appliance will draw in normal use

example ..how much power does the Polar Cub line of A/Cs use ?
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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