โJul-13-2018 04:01 PM
โJul-15-2018 05:00 PM
โJul-15-2018 02:58 PM
Dusty R wrote:
Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.
โJul-15-2018 08:51 AM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi wa8yxm,
I could not agree more.
I replaced all but one of the outlets in my RV with good quality screw terminal type ones.
Did you install a box with those good quality screw terminal type ones? A box is required for those type of receipticals.wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
โJul-15-2018 07:27 AM
dougrainer wrote:
3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug
โJul-15-2018 07:21 AM
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"
dougrainer wrote:
1. 99% of RV AC's require a 20 amp.
2. Your "professional opinion"?????? You are a retired State Employee. That makes you an expert on NOTHING, especially RV's.
3. RV wiring not up to 15 amps? BS. The problem is, people connect TOO MUCH appliances on the circuits in an RV and overload the existing 15 amp systems. Doug
โJul-15-2018 06:48 AM
wa8yxm wrote:
I love these absolutes like "All RV A/Cs shoudl be on 20 amp breakers"
FOr 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units. I'd say that is likely true.
But they make some smaller units that might well take a 15.. Don't know as I don't have one. (I have twin 15Ks)
However I'd be interested in knowing if the problem is;
1 Breaker on generator
2: Breaker on Inverter or sub panel
3: Burned connection.
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
โJul-14-2018 10:02 PM
โJul-14-2018 04:09 PM
wa8yxm wrote:
NOTE that most RV wiring is not really up to 15 amps. The "Quick Box" type outlet (Brand in my beast) are **** in my professional opinion. Space heaters and other big loads toast 'em to a crackley crunch on occasion. and that's not good.. I lost one myself. as well as two wire to wire connections (Stranded to solid) I put in 12 ga fed 15/20's for space heaters NO problems period .
โJul-14-2018 02:44 PM
โJul-14-2018 11:33 AM
โJul-14-2018 09:20 AM
pianotuna wrote:
My 13500 Dometic when first starting draws approximately 1200 watts. At 115 volts that is 10.43 amps. At 107 volts that is 11.22 amps. It does draw more as the day grows hotter and the run times increase.
Code suggests 80% for continuous loads. 80% of 15 amps is 12.
โJul-14-2018 08:19 AM
โJul-14-2018 08:00 AM
SoundGuy wrote:Dusty R wrote:
If a roof AC unite is wired with #14ga. wire do NOT move that wire to a 20 amp breaker.
Any A/C wired with 14 gauge would not be to code, it must be 12 gauge and that 12 gauge circuit must be protected with a 20 amp breaker.
โJul-14-2018 07:47 AM
SoundGuy wrote:Dusty R wrote:
If a roof AC unite is wired with #14ga. wire do NOT move that wire to a 20 amp breaker.
Any A/C wired with 14 gauge would not be to code, it must be 12 gauge and that 12 gauge circuit must be protected with a 20 amp breaker.