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Considering GVWR of trailer with high carrying capacity

josephc
Explorer
Explorer
(Sorry if this ends up being a duplicate. I thought I posted it but when I checked back it wasn't posted, so I'm trying again.)

The condensed version of the question is: is it bad to have a trailer whose GVWR is higher than you can legally and/or safley tow, even if it has the same dry weight as other trailers with GVWRs youโ€™re OK with (just due to having a much larger carrying capacity)? Details below.

My family is in the market for a new travel trailer, and one problem we're running into in deciding what we want is figuring out what we can safely and legally tow. Specifically, we're unsure if we need to consider a trailer's GVWR when deciding if it fits within our GCWR, or if we should consider what it actually weighs when we end up loading it up and taking it to the scales. A lot of advice seems to suggest we always consider the trailer's GVWR, but this has led to some confusion on our part.

The main cause for confusion is the fact that some trailers have carrying capacities in the low 1000s of lbs, while others have carrying capacities in the 3000lb range, and everything in between. We've looked at some trailers that have greater GVWR than heaver models, and it seems strange to disregard a lighter trailer simply because the maximum possible load is higher. If two trailers have identical dry weights, and we load them up identically, but one is rated to safely carry 2000lbs more than the other, if anything I'd think I'd feel MORE comfortable towing the one that has that extra capacity since the axles and frame would be well under their rated load instead of strained to the max.

Case in point: my current favorite trailer is the Forest River Salem Hyper-Lyte 29BHHL (link). Dry weight is 6273lbs, but with 3172lb carrying capacity the GVWR is ~9445lbs. That GVWR plus our tow vehicleโ€™s curb weight alone almost maxes out our 16000lb GCWR, before even considering the weight of our family, pets, etc. in the tow vehicle. However, weโ€™ve considered other trailers with a similar dry weight but which only have ~1500lb carrying capacity. If we consider that load, the weight would be at 7773, which is much more reasonable for our tow vehicle (Yukon XL 2500). That case leaves us with 1813lbs GCWR after considering the tow vehicle and loaded trailer, and assuming 12.5% tongue weight of ~970lbs that leaves us with ~1230lbs of payload, which is in the range weโ€™re comfortable with. Safety-wise, Iโ€™d say this trailer is as good if not better than similar trailers with the same dry weight but lower GVWR. Legally, though, is there a problem with this situation?
15 REPLIES 15

CALandLIN
Explorer
Explorer
josephc wrote:
(Sorry if this ends up being a duplicate. I thought I posted it but when I checked back it wasn't posted, so I'm trying again.)

The condensed version of the question is: is it bad to have a trailer whose GVWR is higher than you can legally and/or safley tow, even if it has the same dry weight as other trailers with GVWRs youโ€™re OK with (just due to having a much larger carrying capacity)? Details below.

My family is in the market for a new travel trailer, and one problem we're running into in deciding what we want is figuring out what we can safely and legally tow. Specifically, we're unsure if we need to consider a trailer's GVWR when deciding if it fits within our GCWR, or if we should consider what it actually weighs when we end up loading it up and taking it to the scales. A lot of advice seems to suggest we always consider the trailer's GVWR, but this has led to some confusion on our part.

The main cause for confusion is the fact that some trailers have carrying capacities in the low 1000s of lbs, while others have carrying capacities in the 3000lb range, and everything in between. We've looked at some trailers that have greater GVWR than heaver models, and it seems strange to disregard a lighter trailer simply because the maximum possible load is higher. If two trailers have identical dry weights, and we load them up identically, but one is rated to safely carry 2000lbs more than the other, if anything I'd think I'd feel MORE comfortable towing the one that has that extra capacity since the axles and frame would be well under their rated load instead of strained to the max.

Case in point: my current favorite trailer is the Forest River Salem Hyper-Lyte 29BHHL (link). Dry weight is 6273lbs, but with 3172lb carrying capacity the GVWR is ~9445lbs. That GVWR plus our tow vehicleโ€™s curb weight alone almost maxes out our 16000lb GCWR, before even considering the weight of our family, pets, etc. in the tow vehicle. However, weโ€™ve considered other trailers with a similar dry weight but which only have ~1500lb carrying capacity. If we consider that load, the weight would be at 7773, which is much more reasonable for our tow vehicle (Yukon XL 2500). That case leaves us with 1813lbs GCWR after considering the tow vehicle and loaded trailer, and assuming 12.5% tongue weight of ~970lbs that leaves us with ~1230lbs of payload, which is in the range weโ€™re comfortable with. Safety-wise, Iโ€™d say this trailer is as good if not better than similar trailers with the same dry weight but lower GVWR. Legally, though, is there a problem with this situation?


Probably the most important thing to consider is the laws in the state your vehicles are registered in. Thatโ€™s not to say other states wonโ€™t ticket you for being overweight, itโ€™s just a reminder that your home state will enforce their laws.

Itโ€™s not a good idea to fool around with hypotheticalโ€™s when purchasing tow and towed vehicles. If you canโ€™t get the numbers to work using the GCWR, GVWR had GAWR ratings without exceeding them, youโ€™re bound to be over them sometimes and thatโ€™s usually the times when things go wrong. Most RV trailer owners never check their weights. They estimate them. A high percentage in that category are the ones you see on the side of the road, waiting for help of some sort.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer
Explorer
7 yrs of FT travel and I was amazed everyday by the stuff the 'weekenders/campers' packed

It would be like a circus clown car..stuff would just keep getting pulled out when setting up (majority never used) and then hours packing all that stuff back up
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

APT
Explorer
Explorer
One family will load about the same amount of stuff/weight in any TT, except for toy haulers where toys may vary a lot (or sometimes no toys). 1000-1500 over dry weight is typical of those families packing for long weekends by those who have actually measured.

My favorite TT is the Keystone Outback 301BQ. I would be very comfortably upgrading from our current TT at 5500 pounds dry and towing with the same TV @ 106k miles.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have often said to keep the trailer GVWR within the tow rating for best results. Generally this is directed toward people that are new at RV trailering. Either way sounds like you are maxing out the towing and weight capacity. I think you have the experience to know how your vehicle will perform. Assuming you are patient about going slower when conditions dictate I think you will be fine.

Yes it is the actual weight that matters. However your description includes UVW that might not be accurate. Only way to really know is to get all of it on the scale and by then the deal is done. Not many dealers will hook you up for a test drive to the scale.

Legally you can tow well over the rating on most consumer vehicles. Legally the DOT rating is by axles and tire width. Vehicle rating is more about performance, warranty and what the manufacturer considers safe.

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
The bottom line is either you are within the tow vehicles limits or you are not. A trip to the CAT scales will tell you that.

Being over the manufactures recommended weight limits is not necessarily illegal or unsafe. I does lead to increased wear an tear and premature failure of components.

It is the owner choice as to how hard and how often they wish to push the recommended vehicle ratings. A half a dozen trips to the local State Parks is very different from several cross county camping trips.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer
Explorer
My train of thought is if the tow vehicle is NOT capable of handling the GVWR of trailer then trailer is too large.

Common mistake........got room to load & folks WILL load it up
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

boosTT
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with your logic. Make sure the difference in CCC isn't just the trailer tires though.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
eHoefler wrote:
One thing to consider, the wheel base, floor plan, location of tanks, etc.. While it may be with in your tow limits, how the weight is positioned will make a huge difference. Toy haulers, for example, take into consideration the load in the garage, which will lighten the pin/tongue weight. You could easily be over weight on the pin/tongue for your tow vehicle.

I think this factor becomes important. How does the weight transfer to your rig. You need to maintain that 12-15% tongue weight.
How does the trailers weight transfer to the TV.
Is the TW acceptable when the trailer is lightly loaded?
Does all of the Cargo weight transfer to the TV? What is the balance of the trailer?
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Correct Trax,Splendide

donn0128
Explorer
Explorer
All these replises seem to miss the point. Can you safely tow a trailer with a higher GVWR than your TV is rated for? Certainally you can as long as you stay under your TVs rating. However, what happens when you want to take a longer trip, or have guests? You could very easily bump up against your trailers GVWR, thereby exceeding your tow vehicles ratings. Now its not a totally bad thing. Your TV will not instantly explode or anything. But the driving experience sure could cause some anxiety. Most any vehicle could pull way more load down the road, but the bottom line comes down to safety and comfort. Are you safe on the road? Are you comfortable loaded to the max on the highway with other drivers? Its not always about you, but about the other driver. Could you safely handle the max load in an emergency situation? That my friend is the questions you need to ask yourself.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Consider that the average RVer packs about 1200 lbs of stuff into a trailer....mayber 1000 lbs for a couple packing light, or 1500 lbs for a family. Trailers with a net carrying capacity in that low 1000 lbs range means that you are always on the edge of being overloaded and dealing with associated tire and axle issues.

Having a 3000 cargo capacity means you have plenty of headroom on the tire and axle ratings with a stronger frame etc., and are less likely to have weight-related issues down the road.

As was said, what matters relative to the TV is how much the TT actually weighs, not what the GVWR is.

A general guideline would be to add 1500 lbs to the dry weight of the trailer to give you an estimate of what it will weigh going down the road. This accounts for batteries, propane and gear, but not fresh eater on board.

eHoefler
Explorer II
Explorer II
One thing to consider, the wheel base, floor plan, location of tanks, etc.. While it may be with in your tow limits, how the weight is positioned will make a huge difference. Toy haulers, for example, take into consideration the load in the garage, which will lighten the pin/tongue weight. You could easily be over weight on the pin/tongue for your tow vehicle.
2021 Ram Limited, 3500, Crew Cab, 1075FTPD of Torque!, Max Tow, Long bed, 4 x 4, Dually,
2006 40' Landmark Mt. Rushmore

Second_Chance
Explorer II
Explorer II
Might want to check out this thread over on the Grand Design forum:

Thread link

Rob
U.S. Army retired
2020 Solitude 310GK-R
MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
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Full-time since 8/2015

dodge_guy
Explorer
Explorer
You are thinking correctly. my trailer has a dry weight of 7100lbs and a GVWR of 11,200 lbs. yes, it has a 4100lb CCC! its not a toy hauler just a model sitting on a larger frame and axles. loaded for a trip Im at 9200lbs. I do pack heavy because of the high CCC. so my weights are going to be more than the average person. however for the average person 12-1500lbs is a good number to add to the dry weight to figure out what you can tow. I too have seen trailers with a very low CCC. I`ve seen a 30ft bunkhouse with super slide with an 800lb CCC! I don't know how they expect a family of four to pack for a trip?
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kerrlakeRoo
Explorer
Explorer
Your correct in your thinking. Actual load as it will be used is the weight that matters. One thing to remember is that while the weights may be similar on the two units, the actual amount you put in them may vary more than you first think. The one with the higher CCC likely has bigger tanks which could make a difference in your final load out.
So long as you are mindful of what you actually have in the rig compared to your vehicles limits you should not have an issue.
And in some cases it may be of great benefit, such as in a bunkhouse unit with a growing family. You could buy and use the trailer now, and increase your truck size to accommodate the families growth in a year or two. As I said above, just be mindful of what you actually have in the rig.