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 > 2013 GMC 2500 HD 6.0/gas - Breaking questions

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ArcticFox&Cats

Utah

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Posted: 07/22/18 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Anyone with experience towing with the '13 GMC 2500HD with the 6.0 gas engine? Specifically breaking, engine compression, help with slowing vehicle and rig down on steeper terrain. Trailer is GVWR 7,000.


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old guy

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Posted: 07/22/18 09:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

my 6.0 is an 02 with 4.10 gears and I start out slow going down steep grades and keep into lower gears. I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool. if you keep gaining speed after this tactic drop down another gear.

Ralph Cramden

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Posted: 07/23/18 02:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ArcticFox&Cats wrote:

Anyone with experience towing with the '13 GMC 2500HD with the 6.0 gas engine? Specifically breaking, engine compression, help with slowing vehicle and rig down on steeper terrain. Trailer is GVWR 7,000.


I have a 2015 GMC 2500 WITH 6.0, trailer is A Rockwood Roo with a GVWR of 6400.

Yesterday I returned from a state park we camp at frequently about 30 miles from home. We have to cross the first two ridges of the alleghenies, west side. On the way home we descend one grade, Laurel Ridge on state rt 31. That is 5 miles long, 7% or better in most places with two sections @ 13%. The second is Chestnut ridge on rt 711, 3 miles @ 6%.

I may have used the brake a dozen times and most of those were at intersections or for other vehicles making a turn. The trick with the 6.0 4-10 is to not barrel over the top of the mountain at 70 mph. Use 2nd gear or 3rd in manual shift, and do not be afraid to let the tach go up into 5K rpm territory.

Dont worry about the pissed off idiots behind you because youre doing 40 mph down. They can not understand why you are doing so as they think since your going down a mountain you should be doing 90mph and riding your brake the entire way. Theyll most likely be about a foot from your back bumper. They missed those large yellow signs limiting commercial trucks to low gear and 20 mph that say warning...steep grades, sharp curves, do not know what those gravel ramps are for that shoot off uphill, and probably run their daily driver until they have metal to metal contact, then go to the dealer wondering what the weird noise is.

evanrem

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Posted: 07/23/18 05:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 15 Silverado in tow haul mode will do some transmission braking and also has a feature called grade braking. After applying the brakes on the downhill the truck will try to keep the speed. I have found cruise on the downhill will also try to maintain the speed set using transmission braking. I tried the cruise feature on my trip to CO this summer after using to much brake on the big passes and it worked well on the "smaller" hills.

Being from WI i dont get to test this often so keep that in mind.

Lynnmor

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Posted: 07/23/18 07:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

old guy wrote:

I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.


Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!





Mmwtdh

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Posted: 07/23/18 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the exact truck and similar trailer weight. Last year I pulled through southern Colorado going over 10,000 feet a couple of times.

Going out I just left it in tow / haul and tapped the brakes to downshift and as mentioned above, if speed picked up too much, I'd step on the brakes pretty hard and get below my comfort speed and start all over.

Coming back, I put my transmission in manual shift and used the toggle to shift up and down and it worked a lot better. It was easier to control speed down and my trans temp was 20 - 30 degrees cooler going up compared to using the automatic setting.

I got up to ~4800 rpm going both up and down. It sounded too high but I figured they make 'em to do it.

I kept my foot in it when needed.....

Groover

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Posted: 07/23/18 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

old guy wrote:

I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.


Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!


I think that was much more true with drum brakes and old materials that were more subject to glazing. You probably don't want to drag your brakes for a mile or two but there is no need to really get on them unless you are afraid of losing control.

7,000lbs is such a light load for a 2500 I don't think that the op is going to have much trouble regardless, especially if he keeps his trailer brakes working well and keeps his speed under control from the top. Of course, the trailer brakes most likely are drums.

ScottG

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Posted: 07/23/18 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

old guy wrote:

I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.


Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!


Old guy is right; Apply the "brakes" relatively firm for a short burst to reduce speed and then let up on them. Just the opposite of riding the brakes down a hill. This allows the brakes to cool.
This is just as valid for disc's as it is for drums.


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Curly2001

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Posted: 07/24/18 05:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With tow/haul on when you tap the brakes going down hill it will downshift for you to the next lower gear. Sometimes you need to be careful that you don't downshift too many times using the brakes to get in to a lower gear than you need. Works very well once you figure it out.
Curly

* This post was edited 07/24/18 06:08am by Curly2001 *


2007 Chev. 2500HD, 6.0, 4:10 diffs, six speed auto
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Grit dog

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Posted: 07/24/18 11:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

old guy wrote:

I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.


Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!


Seriously man, you'd argue with someone that the sky isn't blue if you thought someone would bite on it.

If you do not believe that when goin downhill loaded that prompt, quick braking down to below your target speed, allowing max time for them to cool before applying brakes again is the proper braking method, then go ahead and ride/feather your brakes all the way to the bottom!


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"Obviously I don't want to overload my truck and be unsafe, but the reality is the truck is way more capable than the 10K GVWR they put on the sticker.
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