1994 Damon 26 ft class C value ??

[luberhill]

Dealer near me has this unit,, it super clean.. are these well made ?? What would the value of it be ??

[bobndot]

luberhill wrote:
I have a 28 x 40x16 ft walls pole barn.. I also have tools and knowledge to do my own repairs.. just curious if this brand is well made

I wish I had what you have 🙂
With that set up and your skills you will be able to make it a better rv than it originally was.

From what I can remember the Damon A's were pretty good units. I would think the C's follow that path. I do not remember any complaints or issues that would stand out.
With your skills, you will be able to see the quality when you view into those hidden places to see the fit and finish. The way they ran the electrical wiring, plumbing and such. If it's solid and neat, that's a good indication.
Actually, the fact that its a 90's unit and still around in good shape is a good indication. :B

Good luck, hope it all works well for you.

[midnightsadie]

bobndot sure gave you great advice. now make a list and check it out. tires arn,t cheap and see if the frig works ,turn it on and come back in the morning, damon was as good as any ,theres no quality built in any rv.

[luberhill]

I have a 28 x 40x16 ft walls pole barn.. I also have tools and knowledge to do my own repairs.. just curious if this brand is well made

[bobndot]

The value is whatever someone is willing to pay for it . It appears they generally go for about $5k - $8k but I would want to know who owned it with anything that age. When things get that old anything can malfunction especially something with considerable weight that bounces down a highway all its life.
It would a plus to have a lot of mechanical experience, necessary tools, a place to work on it like a barn (unless you really like playing in lake effect snow)
My experience with an RV with that kind of age is keeping on top of maintaining the truck part of things.

As far as the rv part of things, do a thorough inspection of the roof, the roof seams (check caulking) , caulking around clearance lights, roof antenna, sewer vent and roof vents. It would help if the previous owner used the correct rv/uv related caulks and sealants.
Check the exterior to make sure its solid like a rock if its made of filon (fiberglass) . The walls should feel hard when you bang on them.

Check the floor for soft spots where there might have been water intrusion (especially near the entrance door). Windows are another place that leaks occur.
Don't forget the water will seek the lowest point and usually travel to a side that normally sits low as if it was parked on an inclined driveway most of the time.
I once removed a small screw at the low point on the drivers side rear. The screw was completely rusted and water dripped out when I removed it. I traced the water stain on the inside floor along the drivers side, across the floor to the passenger side and up the wall to the passenger side cabover area.

Use a flashlight, even in daylight to inspect inside dark cabinets etc. Look for an interior panel inside cabinets that might have been painted to cover water stains and USE your NOSE to smell inside cabinets for dampness or mold.

All this adds up to what its value is . As far as being well made ? Well...that might be a difficult thing to find in this rv world in which we play. They are all constructed to save weight by using inexpensive materials . Some use screws and glue, some staple things and hope they hold up through the warranty period. If you are a handy person with construction skills you will know what you are looking for, if not, find someone or pay someone to go with you.