A power drill to lift a TC

[Harleybullet]

Has anyone purchased a battery operated drill to use on the Jacks for a TC. I have an AF1150 and the motors are shot, I use the manual switch and a Makita drill to lower the jacks to the ground but then have to use a large ratchet wrench once it is off the springs of the truck. I do not want to use an impact wrench it might damage the fittings on the Jack /

Dave

[theoldwizard1]

naturist wrote:
I looked at the DW245 @theoldwizard1 referenced and couldn't find any torque specs on it. It is a 1/2" drill, but corded. I have a Rigid 1/2" drill (Home Depot house brand, I think) that produces around 450 inch-pounds of torque, and have found it capable of twisting itself right out of my hands.

The specs of the DW245 on Amazon says 1400 in-lbs ! And, yes, you should used the assist handle because it will twist right out of your hand !

[NMDriver2]

I've been using a Harbor Freight 1/2 corded to raise and lower my 5er landing gear and stabilizers, for several years. On the two occasions I did not have an electric site I just fired up the generator. It is also much faster than the electric motor that came on the unit and which quit working years ago.

I also use a Harbor Freight cordless 1/2 mostly for lowering the 5er or raising the stabilizers. Chores that need a lot of turning but not much torque.

I do not know the torque specs but the corded drill will lift the front end of my 10,000 lb loaded 5er with no strain.

[RickW]

If you can manually crank the jacks with a hand crank, then a modern drill will probably work. I used to use a makita 9 volt and it worked ok. Now I use an 18 volt Ryobi. easy peasy.

As others have mentioned, you will probably get more torque than you can hold with one hand. Keep your head and face clear when cranking. :E

I also took a dead 18 v battery and converted it to a 12 volt lighter connection. It still has all the power I will ever need.

[Kayteg1]

Don't let the voltage game fool you.
Just becouse they advertise "24V" doesn't have to mean the drill will have high torque. Read the tech spec for that.
I've been using DeWalt for last 20+ years and 14V driver will shear off 1/4" bolt. I doubt you will need more torque than that.
Over the years I ended up with 4 of those drills as each time I needed new batteries, the whole set was like $20 more and available in store, when replacement batteries are always special order.
Bottom line, I made wires to power 14V driver from 12V car socket.

[deltabravo]

Harleybullet wrote:
I have an AF1150 and the motors are shot

Sounds like an earlier model AF, with Crappijacks...

[Harleybullet]

Well it sounds like this battery drill with the right torque will do the job, I spoke to the local tool dealer and will show him your examples... maybe I can try one out when I put the camper back on the truck I will let you know the results... thanks for the info

[Travels_with_Yo]

I have a Makita XPH01 1/2 inch 18 volt drill that has a hammer function and 2 speed settings. I've used it for the last couple years on 3 different truck campers. You do have to make a concentrated effort to keep the body from rotating but not really difficult to do it.

Makita drill

[SidecarFlip]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
The problem is torque. Most battery drills will not have enough torque. Actually most corded drills will come up short also. What you need is a TRIPLE gear reduction (most drills have double gear reduction) drill like a DeWalt like a DW245.

I have the manual RT jacks on my TC (I was too cheap to spring for the 1200 buck option of electric jacks.....:B

My jacks came with 2 cordless / corded drill adapters. I get on one side, Amy gets on the opposite side and we lift and lower the unit with 2 Harbor Freight 20 Volt Lithium cordless drills (the Blue Ones). No problem, up or down and once the camper is in the truck (and jacks pad are off the ground), A quick flip into high gear raises the jack legs pronto.

I have no need for remote electric jacks, my cordless drills work just fine.

I carry one drill with me so when we set up to camp, I run the legs down to stabilize the camper (we hate rocking and rolling).

[Notakwanon]

I have used my 20v. Porter-Cable drill to lower/raise the HappiJacks, but it won't handle it all the way when there is a lot of weight to lift. Still, that saves a whole lot of hand cranking.

[KD4UPL]

I've used 18 volt Milwaukee cordless drill for years in the construction business. I have used the same drill to raise a TC but it was a small 8' pop-up.
I recently got a new Milwaukee 18v cordless drill to replace my 10 year old model. The new one is so much more powerful it's almost scary. It came with a detachable extra handle for high torque applications. I thought that was silly, it's just a cordless drill after all. Then I used it with a 4" hole saw. It grabbed and twisted my arm around. I thought it was going to break my arm off. I use the side handle now with the 4" hole saw.
I would have to guess that a modern day 18v or higher voltage drill with a brush-less motor made by Milwaukee, DeWalt, or other good brand would have more power than the motors that came with your jacks.

[naturist]

I agree that torque is the problem. But I'm not so sure that the short lever of any drill, corded or otherwise, is going to give you enough leverage. Nothing like pulling the trigger and finding you aren't strong enough to hold the drill, which could do the job if only you could hold on to it.

I looked at the DW245 @theoldwizard1 referenced and couldn't find any torque specs on it. It is a 1/2" drill, but corded. I have a Rigid 1/2" drill (Home Depot house brand, I think) that produces around 450 inch-pounds of torque, and have found it capable of twisting itself right out of my hands. I'm not sure it could do what the OP wants because, after all, it only provides the standard 6 inch or so lever arm almost all drills have.

[Terryallan]

Harleybullet wrote:
Has anyone purchased a battery operated drill to use on the Jacks for a TC. I have an AF1150 and the motors are shot, I use the manual switch and a Makita drill to lower the jacks to the ground but then have to use a large ratchet wrench once it is off the springs of the truck. I do not want to use an impact wrench it might damage the fittings on the Jack /

Dave

You need a 1/2 inch, battery, 24 volt, DeWalt Hammer drill. Yes you turn off the hammer option. It has 450 INCH pounds of torque. When you pull the trigger SOMETHING moves. I bought mine to raise the roof on our old popup. Now I use it to lower the stabilizers. I can pick up the whole TT with it.

I understand newer 18 volt, and 20 volt drills have better torque now. Yes you need torque. And it can be had in a higher voltage drill.. but they are not so cheap. A 9, or 12 volt won't do it.

[theoldwizard1]

The problem is torque. Most battery drills will not have enough torque. Actually most corded drills will come up short also. What you need is a TRIPLE gear reduction (most drills have double gear reduction) drill like a DeWalt like a DW245.