Suburban Electric Water heater

[TGO]

I have a 2005 Carriage It has a Suburban Gas/electric hot water heater. Lately the electric side has been working intermittently. Very frustrating. Gas side works perfect. I replaced the element with no luck Then I took the partition out and when moving some wires around, it started for a while. Thought maybe it was a loose connection on the modulator but when I put the modulator back into place I lost power to the element again. I'm not an electrician although I do have a light knowledge and a few electronic tools to check voltage and amp. Anybody have any ideas? Question: What is the purpose of the modulator? Is it for gas, electric or both? Probably have to take it in but just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues. Thanks

[Vette_Racer]

Wire going to thermostat was loose and burned, replaced thermostat and wire connector. Symptom was first just low temp, then no heating on electric.

[TGO]

Thanks everyone, I think I have enough info to get things rolling.

[Old-Biscuit]

Modulator.......
Do you mean the circuit board that is on backside of water heater tank?

IF so and moving the wiring on it does affect the electric operation then you could have a 'DEL' model
Similar to the way Atwood uses DC to trigger AC to the element

DC goes to a DC/AC Relay...DC from electric on/off to JUNCTION Box to relay to element. Ground wire (Yellow) from circuit board ties to ground in junction box
No solid ground no electric

2 Junction Boxes (looking from the rear).......One left side/DC and One right side/AC----DC/AC Relay in AC Box

[HuckleberryHunt]

I noticed the outside switch (near the element) would lose connection due to corrosion, so an occasional cleaning with deoxidizer spray and cycling the switch a few times would help.

[golf_bears]

Get your multi-meter out and check if you have power going into the on/off switch and then out of the switch. I've had this problem before and once I replaced the on/off switch it worked as it was suppose to.

[donn0128]

On my 2005 Suburban the switch was bad, the wiring between the junction box, the switch and the 120VAC hi limit pack had burned pish on connectors, and a wire that had rubbed on the sheet metals sharp edges. All within a year. You need to open things up and start looking at the wiring.

[WeBeFulltimers]

newman fulltimer wrote:
Junction box on the side on the inside your 110 wirenuts are loose

Or the switch at the bottom hasa bad connection you move a wire itvreconbects it

This is likely your problem.

[newman_fulltime]

Junction box on the side on the inside your 110 wirenuts are loose

Or the switch at the bottom hasa bad connection you move a wire itvreconbects it

[TGO]

Thanks for the reply, I think this is beyond my pay grade. A little knowledge is dangerous! Thanks again

[Chris_Bryant]

I am assuming you mean the ignition module, and no, on Suburban it only control the gas side.

[TGO]

So modulator has no connection to AC side?

[Chris_Bryant]

On that model the electric is totally separate from the lp side. Electric consists of the switch on the outside, the thermostat and Eco, which is under the black plastic cover on the left side, and the element.