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Need a spindle nut socket for axle in 2500HD Chevy

Joe417
Explorer
Explorer
I've been going round and round on the internet trying to figure out which spindle nut socket fits my 2500HD rear axle.

I want to buy one before I open the hubs up and I haven't been able to find specifically clear info on the tool. Probably a trade secret.

Many forums/ads don't state exactly what vehicle a specific PN socket will fit, usually just a diameter. Others specify it will fit my vehicle and then will add something like "Front Axle","4WD", or "4 lug" or include a picture that I'm certain will not fit.

I'm fairly certain it has 6 lugs. I've found SUNEX Tools who lists there part numbers by axle weight. I'm guessing I have a 7200 lb axle but I'm not sure.

Summit has an online tool finder but it points to a tool Sunex says is for an 11000 lb axle. Don't think that's on my 2500.

Anyone have any insight on this tool?
Joe & Evelyn
31 REPLIES 31

1320Fastback
Explorer
Explorer
I just rented the 36MM fan clutch wrench kit from them. Was $107 and considered not returning it. Lol
1992 D250 Cummins 5psd
2005 Forest River T26 Toy Hauler

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
That was my point, you still have to buy the tool but you get a full refund when you bring it back.
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

mich800
Explorer
Explorer
Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
KD4UPL wrote:
I suspect Auto Zone as well as others will loan you this tool free of charge. No need to buy it.


Yes and no. You have to buy the tool then return it for a refund if not damaged.


It is still free. They would go broke real fast if they just sent out a bunch of product with no incentive for the user to return it. But I understand your point. If it is a high dollar tool it could still be out of reach for someone on a very tight budget.

I have used the Autozone and Oreilly tool rentals often and have been very happy with the process.

bucky
Explorer II
Explorer II
wireman wrote:
bucky wrote:
I try to keep my mouth shut but your safety is at stake here. If you don't know how many lug nuts your truck has I doubt that you have the equipment needed to safely support the vehicle while your legs may be under it.



Just admit you were wrong by accusing him of not having the ability or tools.


Your concerns were admirable but unfounded by (assuming).


I apologize to the OP for assuming that his skill set and equipment were not up to the job. I jumped to an unfounded conclusion and am sorry.
Puma 30RKSS

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
KD4UPL wrote:
I suspect Auto Zone as well as others will loan you this tool free of charge. No need to buy it.


Yes and no. You have to buy the tool then return it for a refund if not damaged.
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
It's because, like a lot of torque specs, it's not that crucial.
The whole idea is to take up all the slop/slack/ end play, plus a little more to make sure then to back it off half way between tight and perceptible end play.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Joe417
Explorer
Explorer
The info I had was tighten to 50 lbs then back off ~1/4 turn until the key lines up. I read different versions but all were around 50.

I measured the distance to torque it down before I removed the nut. It was less than 1/2 turn to 50 lbs. With 90K miles on it that made since to me.

I'm not sure if the higher torque may be a GM thing or to help seat the 2 part seals in addition to the bearings. I didn't remove the bearings. It still turned freely at 50 lbs. but felt right when I backed it off 1/4 turn.
Joe & Evelyn

LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Explorer
Joe417 wrote:

FYI, I finished the job today. It's a 2008 model. If you've never done a rear axle bearing or seal repair on a 2500 or 3500 its an easy job. Only hard part for me was getting the parking break cable off and back on, as I needed to replace brake parts and not the bearings. Oh, and getting up out of the floor every time I got down on my knees wasn't easy either.

For anyone who didn't under stand the question, on my 2500 the rear end has floating axles. To remove the parking brake backer plate you have to remove the axle and then the wheel spindle which is held on by a spindle nut.

The spindle nut is a round ~2 5/8in ring that is threaded to screw onto the rear spindle shaft to retain the bearings. It has 6 holes around it and requires a special socket to re-install it. The socket has 6 "lugs" about 1/4" long that fit into the holes in the nut.


Yes, the socket is very handy to have around. My RAM uses the same 11.5" AAM axle that you have in your Chevy. I had to replace leaking hub seals in mine and purchased the socket so I could set the bearings with the proper pre-load.

What was the torque on your GM? RAM spec is to tighten the spindle nut to 30 ft-lbs, then back off 30 degrees or until the nearest keyway lines up. I'm very curious to know if the GM instructions are different.

KJ
'14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins
Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep
2000 Crownline 205BR
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mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
All right never mind. It won't let me post the image tag.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Paging Bucky......come in Bucky.....
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

racerguy351
Explorer
Explorer
mowermech wrote:

NOW I see the problem! Terminology rears its ugly head, again.
When most people of my acquaintance hear the word "lugs", the7y think of the bolts that hold the wheel to the hub.
When those same people see the type of tool that is herein described, they think "tangs", not "lugs".
Terminology also explains why several posters thought a front axle was being mentioned. The machined surface for the bearings and seals on a rear axle housing, while technically a "spindle" is not often called that. Front axles, yes. Trailer axles, yes. But not usually a full-floating drive axle
Of course, anyone is free to use whatever terminology they desire, but they should be prepared to be misunderstood.
But then, I are jus' a dum ol' retired mek-a-nik. Whut ddue me no.


What would you call the "spindle" part of a full floating housing? I call it a spindle because I can't think of anything better. Another terminology thing that can get people mixed up is a front spindle or steering knuckle. The spindle is on the steering knuckle and where the wheel bearing sits. Lots of people and books call the whole thing the spindle.
The parts on the socket that stick out and go into the "holes" in the nut I call pins but have seen them called lugs. I don't like the term tangs. I think tangs are the part of the tin piece that fits between the 2 hub nuts and bend over to keep them tight, if it has that type of retaining system.
It would be so much nicer if parts all went by the same name no matter where you live or made the vehicle.

wireman
Explorer
Explorer
bucky wrote:
I try to keep my mouth shut but your safety is at stake here. If you don't know how many lug nuts your truck has I doubt that you have the equipment needed to safely support the vehicle while your legs may be under it.



Just admit you were wrong by accusing him of not having the ability or tools.


Your concerns were admirable but unfounded by (assuming).

Bluhorn
Explorer
Explorer
This is getting like Facebook on here! Everybody Chill!:E
I just did rear brakes on my 93 Dodge which has full floating axles and like the OP says its harder to get up and down with bad knees than the job itself. My truck has the Nylock nuts with a key to hold the retaining nut on.No tang. Theres that terminology again!
1993 Dodge D 250 Cummins Club Cab
2019 Ram 1500 Laramie 4X4 Quad Cab
2022 Palomin9 Solaire 242RB
Chance The Senior Husky

mowermech
Explorer
Explorer
Joe417 wrote:
This is hilarious. I didn't mean to cause an argument. And I don't mind the safety cautions, as I'm fairly certain Darwin based his theories on some of the mechanics in my area.

For anyone who didn't under stand the question, on my 2500 the rear end has floating axles. To remove the parking brake backer plate you have to remove the axle and then the wheel spindle which is held on by a spindle nut.

The spindle nut is a round ~2 5/8in ring that is threaded to screw onto the rear spindle shaft to retain the bearings. It has 6 holes around it and requires a special socket to re-install it. The socket has 6 "lugs" about 1/4" long that fit into the holes in the nut.


NOW I see the problem! Terminology rears its ugly head, again.
When most people of my acquaintance hear the word "lugs", the7y think of the bolts that hold the wheel to the hub.
When those same people see the type of tool that is herein described, they think "tangs", not "lugs".
Terminology also explains why several posters thought a front axle was being mentioned. The machined surface for the bearings and seals on a rear axle housing, while technically a "spindle" is not often called that. Front axles, yes. Trailer axles, yes. But not usually a full-floating drive axle
Of course, anyone is free to use whatever terminology they desire, but they should be prepared to be misunderstood.
But then, I are jus' a dum ol' retired mek-a-nik. Whut ddue me no.
CM1, USN (RET)
2017 Jayco TT
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