Oil Sample Analysis - Should I Be Concerned

[GJax]

Well I got my oil sample analysis back. Not sure if I should be too concerned. Here are the results. 3 items of possible concern, everything else is normal readings. If anyone has any comments please respond.

1999 6.8l V-10 67500 miles
Iron 40ppm
Chromium 3ppm **just above normal, indicates possible piston ring wear
Nickel 1ppm
Aluminum 9ppm
Copper 3ppm
Lead 0ppm
Tin 0ppm
Cadmium 0ppm
Silver 0ppm
Vanadium 0ppm
Silicon 34ppm ** indicates dirt, silica sand (understandable in south Texas) ingestion of dirt possible air filter debris.
Sodium 355ppm ** indicates possible oil defoaming agent, also dirt ingestion
Potassium 9ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Molybdenum 20ppm
Antimony 0ppm
Manganese 0ppm
Lithium 0ppm
No water present
Soot <.1
All other items are normal. What I understand if there is piston wear or valve wear other metals, such as iron and nickel would be present or above normal. Ring wear could be from the dirt ingestion, thus the elevated silicon and sodium levels.
The analysis indicates that flagged data ** does not indicate an immediate need for maintenance action. Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at moderate level sodium is at moderate level, source oil additives or supplement, chromium is at moderate level possible source piston ring plating.
If anyone has input, it would be greatly appreciated. I trust your wealth in knowledge and experience.

[carringb]

Fwiw - I scoped my v10 last weekend at 460,000 (extremely hard) miles. Crosshatch was still new-ish lookin on camera. I think you little to worry about. Besides, reman V10s are cheap and used ones go for less than a dishwasher.

[GJax]

Thanks WILDEBILL308, price is definitely right, I'm 80% there on pulling the trigger. The way you explained the length of the tube is exactly the way it was performed, but the tubing was just small enough to fit in the dipstick tube and I think it very well could have picked up some debris as it was pushed down the tube. Thanks for your input


You guys are awesome and I thank you for the input both negative and positive.

[Chum_lee]

At 40 ppm, your iron content is high. Aluminum is also higher than it should be but not critical. Iron cylinder bores, aluminum pistons. That makes sense.

As others have said, oil analysis is trend based. To establish a meaningful trend, you need a series of tests, done over similar intervals, using the same oil.

The ultimate issue with ICP oil analysis tests (Inductive Coupled Plasma) is that they only test for the presence of certain elements, not their molecular structure, particle size, or origin. For that you need a visual analysis and FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) which is much more thorough and definitive. Also, much more expensive. The ICP test guys just give you a sheet of paper with numbers on it to compare with your friends. What the numbers mean is just an educated guess, but, IMO better than nothing.

Chum lee

[rgatijnet1]

The main thing that I would worry about is not the engine lasting. It would be that you may have to deal with several rubber hoses, brake lines, belts, AC hoses, vacuum lines, etc that are now almost 20 years old. Of course there are some steel lines that may also need attention, like the fuel and brake lines. Hopefully the previous owner had been taking care of those things while he used the coach.

[WILDEBILL308]

GJax wrote:
Sample was taken with warmed engine. The oil was extracted by the system JG Lubricants supplies to their certified inspectors. I believe it was all done under proper conditions. Looks as though I'll have to use this as an initial analysis, and compare to future reports.
Well - I'm on top of the fence as to buying this MH leaning over toward buying … all filters and oil will be changed before any initial trip being made if I make the deal. Buying from consignment dealer, that's why I spent $500 on a certified inspection, so making conditions probably won't fly with actual owners selling it. Inspection went rather well, the analysis is my final piece of the puzzle.

Given what you have said I think you are good to go. I did work in a oil lab and I don't see any big problems. Yes you could use this sample as a base. I would do a sample every time you get ready to change your oil to get a better idea of what your trend looks like.
Pull your sample with the vacuum pump and be careful not to hit the bottom of the pan or you will get a false reading. I mark the plastic tubing I am using, against the length of the dipstick to make this easier. Send your samples in so you can have the results back before you drain your oil just in case you have a sample that looks bad. If you haven't drained the oil you can resample and verify the results.
By the way those who talk about catching drain oil don't know what they are talking about. Way to easey to get a false sample because the draining oil is pulling sludge out of the bottom of the pan.
Bill

[JoeH]

We had a 1999 V-10 in a 36' MH and went for over 125k miles with no issues before we sold it. If you like the layout of the coach and everything else is in reasonable shape AND the price is right ( a 99 is now 20 yrs old ) go for it.

[Executive45]

Considering where the coach has been, I wouldn't let that analysis stop me from purchasing it if every thing else was in order and I liked the layout. It's a no brainer if the wife likes it...it's mine....:)....Dennis

[GJax]

Since this is my 1st venture into a Class A, I'm on the edge. Another test drive and I'll probably pull the trigger.

[ppine]

Change your oil more often. You may be showing piston wear.
You are in dusty conditions some of the time.
I really like synthetic oil.

[GJax]

Sample was taken with warmed engine. The oil was extracted by the system JG Lubricants supplies to their certified inspectors. I believe it was all done under proper conditions. Looks as though I'll have to use this as an initial analysis, and compare to future reports.
Well - I'm on top of the fence as to buying this MH leaning over toward buying … all filters and oil will be changed before any initial trip being made if I make the deal. Buying from consignment dealer, that's why I spent $500 on a certified inspection, so making conditions probably won't fly with actual owners selling it. Inspection went rather well, the analysis is my final piece of the puzzle.

[carringb]

I'd suspect maybe a poorly seated air filter, but nothing to be worried about.

The v10's air filter is easy to install slightly out of alignment allowing some air to bypass. Also, some aftermarket filters have better gaskets than others. If you pull you air filter and there's is a chalky film behind it, your filter isn't fully seated. If this is the case you might improve driveability by cleaning your MAF Sensor.

[Bird_Freak]

SidecarFlip wrote:
First off, you never xtract a cold sample with a vacuum pump, always a hot samnple from the drain plug. I'd buy the unit under condition that you change the pol and take another sample in 1000 miles. Sounds to me like you have some bearing issues, if it's a CAT, if it's a Cummins, fuel pump issues.

Reread post. Its a V10.

[Marcela]

That is what dirt ingestion does, wears the rings.

[SidecarFlip]

First off, you never xtract a cold sample with a vacuum pump, always a hot samnple from the drain plug. I'd buy the unit under condition that you change the pol and take another sample in 1000 miles. Sounds to me like you have some bearing issues, if it's a CAT, if it's a Cummins, fuel pump issues.